91Pioneer

Who here has a contact at Key Parts? They seem on a roll when it comes to reproduction parts. Perhaps someone could suggest a rear bumper OEM style to them?

Companies really don't offer rebuild kits anymore, if you are paying a mechanic it's actually cheaper to just replace the part than pay the labor to rebuild things, that's why many mechanics are parts changers now. It was hard to find a M/C rebuild kit for my 86 AMC Eagle but I found one on RockAuto. I remember the old days when you would turn (resurface) a brake drum/disc instead of buying a new ChInEsE part.

You got that right! Fingers crossed someone will reproduce the OEM rear bumper, I'd buy one in a heartbeat, maybe 2 or 3 as I have 2 Comanches and my son has one as well

Great video, you didn't show putting the spring on, let's assume that's straightforward. I think if the metal clips are OK people should reuse them as they will last longer. Your website doesn't support shipping to Canada, do you not ship outside the US?

Can you recommend one?

It's too bad Key Parts doesn't ship to Canada. I prefer the kit with the rivets as the rubber looks smooth, more original. I need a set for my 89.

Decent pricing!! I wish they would go one step further and include brand new black hardware and U-clip nuts so it's the total package. Too bad they don't ship to Canada, they are missing out on two sales from me.

If the terminals are simply corroded, you could try using a terminal cleaning tool, like a file. I got one recently and have used it a few times. It is way easier and may fix your problem without needing to replace anything - https://amzn.to/3VPxGSp

It's for a rear diff, stock 2WD 89 MJ. So... Dana 35 maybe? I'm not up on all the correct tech specs / lingo all the time.

Fortunately I have one of the two clips, so the good clip can go into the diff so I don't have to mess around there, and I can mod something up for the box / vent end of it. It's about a 100 mile round trip to the junkyard. I would think the 90 XJ would have the same clip, eh?

Hmmm

I broke one of my axle vent plastic pieces when I was trying to change the hose. Does anyone have a part #? Prefer OEM part, if not I may have to look for a brass fitting or something. It’s kind of urgent. This is a pic of the good one:

Rubberized undercoating is 100% the wrong choice if you want to avoid rust. #1 don't drive it in winter. #2 if you must, choose oil/wax based coatings and cover every square inch underneath. And #3 keep the underside clean of salt by using the car wash in winter. In my opinion you need to put the decals back on.

I was looking at the wiring diagrams again and noticed the park brake switch DRL wire leads back to a diode, which I quote is taped to harness near DRL module.. Well... that's a lie. I was at the junkyard again so I literally pulled the underhood harness from behind the battery where the DRL relay was, pulled it all the way behind the headlights, back in through the front driver side engine bay and kept going back until I found the diode. Guess what? It's close the master cylinder. Man when I hyper focus on a topic, watch out LOL I don't think most people have the patience I can exhibit. In hindsight I should have kept going with the wiring and disconnected it from the fuse box but I just cut it near the fuse box because I was just so glad after all that to finally find the diode I was D-U-N done.

FYI the DRL relay I'm referring to is the OEM specific DRL relay used in the Canadian market. If you are handy with wiring it looks like it can be added. I'm not referring to a standard (generic) automotive relay for wiring the DRLs.

You *might* have to disassemble/destroy a spare DRL relay and make your own version of that side of the connector. FYI I tested out applying 12V directly to the headlight LO and HI and the DRL relay got "out of the way" so to speak. Voltage drops to 0 for the HI beam when I put 12V to the LO beam when it's all wired up. And sending 12V directly to the HI beam keeps 0V at the LO beam. The DRL seems to be working good and has some smart logic in it, but I didn't test the park brake and hi beam indicator wires (yet?). I'm having second thoughts about just wiring up the new harness with the DRL at the same time. It's more work but then I'm only messing with the wiring once. And, considering I need to tap in after the new headlight relays this might be the better way to go. I had thoughts of just not running DRLs after the safety but at the end of the day I know that having DRLs is without a doubt the safer way to drive. Do you know regarding the park brake, if I decide to tap into that wire, does the park brake send 12V to the park brake wire or just ground out? I'm thinking it just grounds out. I didn't look too closely at that part as I initially wasn't planning on wiring that wire. Now I'm thinking I'll just wire the whole thing up correctly and be done with it. I did not yet test the high beam indicator wire to see if I will need that, I suspect I will need to wire that up now.

I doubt you will find the DRL side of the DRL relay wiring connector. Unless it happens to fit various makes/models for something else besides DRL?

My "new" 89 spent its entire life in Miami and I've noticed many of the wires are very hard and brittle. I think it would be a smart idea to use the whole new headlight upgrade wires for safety reasons. The turn signals aren't working I just noticed today but hazards work so that's a whole new thing to check. I also discovered there are no bolts or nuts holding the box on aside from the tank is attached so it's weighing the box down. Ah the joys of buying an old vehicle LOL I'm up for the task though.

Yes

I just had the thought yesterday of getting a 10 pin headlight / header panel harness connector set from the junkyard and making a custom T-tap harness. The 90 is still there and I'm going to go back within the next 3-4 days. I decided that if I can make the DRL relay work, I will do that first to pass inspection. And then after that I will worry about adding the extra headlight relay set that I already have. I don't want to overcomplicate things until after it gets the OK. There are some extra janky wiring things under the hood and at the fuse box so I don't want to go too far on any of these known issues. Like the blower fuse is melted so there is a jumper wire. I need to get the safety basics addressed first (DRL, all lights work, brakes, steering, etc.)

FYI the 90 XJ DRL part # is 4437394 60043 which is different from my 91 MJ part #. I made a mistake in my previous wire post - white is HI beams, green is LO beams, I will edit my post. (do you have a typo on your #10 wire?) I did some experimenting today with the relay. I wired all 3 grounds together, ignored the park brake & high beam indicator wires. I then wired the "Ignition Off Draw" and Ignition wires together for power. I used a 12V power source and a voltmeter to see what happened. With this setup, I saw 4.8V on the hi beam wire, and 8.0V on the low beam wire. I then wired the high beam, low beam and ground to a single headlight, this time powered by the truck's battery. That resulted in the headlight lighting up dimly with the high beam. I measured 0.1V going to the low beam wire and 2.5V to the high beam wire. I was too lazy to test a second headlight along with it but I do wonder if it might push the voltage up to like double? That's what I suspect will happen. 5V is what you are indicating you see so that kind of makes sense, eh? There must be some kind of load detection logic in that relay. If I literally unplug the low beam wire from the headlight and measure the voltage then, it shows 7.2V on that wire but when it's connected it drops to 0.1V (no change to the high beam voltage). Not really a big deal to me, but this does tell me you should wire up both the high and low beam wires and not just ignore one of them. For giggles I also disconnected the high beam wire, that resulted in 0V on both high and low beam wires. The only things I'm left wondering right now is will my current config (ignoring 2 wires) will it have an impact on the high beam indicator? And, is there logic in the relay to turn off voltage to the high beams if it detects voltage going to the low beams? I ran out of time or I would have tested that second question. I am not going to test it but I figure if I put 12V to the park brake wire it will probably turn off DRL (is that how it works?) To pass safety I can't have the high beam indicator on at all times, it has to just come on with the high beams only. I may temporarily wire up my 89 Comanche with the DRL relay to test it out next. My backup plan to this is to just wire a relay to trigger the low beams when the vehicle is on, that will let me pass safety and then I can do whatever after it passes.

Thanks for the reply. Yes it's a dinosaur thread but hey the truck hasn't changed in the last 15 years LOL. The 91 DRL is quite different due to the speed sensor input. I have just replied above this with my updated info that I obtained. The 1990 XJ and 1991 MJ have different DRL part #s, FYI. So 89-01 should read 91-01.

UPDATE: So I spent the last few hours straight hyper-focusing on this and long story short I found a 1990 XJ repair manual PDF including wiring diagrams. It's on page heading 8W-198. I was able to determine the following from the diagram, here are what the wires do (in order from top left to right then bottom left to right as you view my photo): White = goes to high beams Black = ground Pink/Orange = goes to park brake switch (DRL defeat) Light blue / black = goes to high beam indicators Yellow = 12V ignition / run Red = "Ignition Off Draw Connector" which I think is just a 12V battery / constant ?? Empty Black = ground Black = ground Green = goes to low beams It's still not clear to me if it's low or high beam headlights that are activated, but I think I may be able to choose (either hook up low or high beam). I feel I may be able to test wire this up... I think I can ignore the park brake switch and high beam indicator wires, ground all 3 grounds together, run one 12V constant, one 12V ignition and then tap into either low or high beams... Wish me luck LOL - oh and by the way I have the extra headlight harness "upgrade" to install at the same time, I'm well aware of that needed upgrade, especially if I run the headlights 24/7 when the truck is turned on. I was also able to find this text that describes the system:

Eagle, I have a 89 US Comanche, but I have imported it recently and need to get an inspection and now I need DRLs. Today I picked up a 90 XJ DRL module plus wiring connector (11/89 build date) and I'd like if possible to use this to wire my truck up. My #1 preference is to use the factory module to have slightly reduced output of the headlights like stock trucks. I also have a 91 Comanche and it has DRL but it has a different part number and I'm aware the newer trucks use a speed sensor and DRL only turns on when the truck goes above a certain speed. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the stock 1990 XJ DRL relay? Here are the 9 wires coming out of it. ** I don't care about 100% perfect integration, I'm not expecting to even wire up every wire, I don't care if it's high or low beams even for my purposes, but I do like the thought of reduced power output, but not affect normal headlight operation ** My backup plan is to just wire a standard relay to the low beam headlight and wire it to come on with the ignition on.

My blower fuse was melted and bypassed with a jumper wire on my new 89 Comanche. Did anyone actually ever get around to installing a proper relay on a Renix blower motor? Perhaps could share experience or a diagram on where to tap the wire into (for sure)....? I intend to pull the dash apart and check the fan speed switch wiring harness to see if it's melted or not too. The wiring at the resistor is perfect and new looking. The blower wiring under the hood looks good. I also plan on adding an extra ground wire for the blower as per cruiser54.