JeffK

Looks great. RedlineGoods?

It wouldn't be my first choice, but I like the color. Then again neither was tan/khaki/brown... Not that wild about the color, but the top is new and has tinted windows. I do like that.

Thanks. Good call it is an '03.

Finally back to it after the holidays. Spent today replacing missing bolts etc. Did want to post up a pic of the new daily driver I picked up on 1/3...

Been finishing up a bunch of small stuff. The most annoying was the #74 bulb holder in the heater controls which refused to stay in. A closer look shows a broken ear on the holder. Turns out the one I grabbed at the yard was broken too. Ebay to the rescue though. 10 holders for $6 shipped.

Made the rounds at the local Pull a Parts today. No great finds, but I did find a replacement clock for my old cracked one. I had planned on replacing the broken #74 bulb socket for the heater controls, but I broke the extra socket I had. I did play around with the temp gauge and temporarily put the high set point at 210.

I appreciate it. I finally got myself right, so I'm back at it. Thanks, It's from a '90 or '91 limited. I like the old school look of it.

A little distraction this week. Eric Church and company. Kip Moore Justin Moore Eric Church Picked up some bling for the MJ today (bling in my world) Mopar part number 82204675. Fitment is pretty good. looks a little odd without the gas pedal installed. At least they say Jeep. Back to work tomorrow am, enjoy the rest of your weekend folks. :cheers2: Jeff

I like the Weller brand. The cheap ones don't get hot enough.

I did, and I actually have one. I had some problems with leaks on my last XJ a 2000, and the repair was a pain. Where it's at now any issues will be a simple enough to repair

Finished up the add on fuse box for the gauges and the fan controls. Power for the gauges and the 2 fan circuits. Left top fan/gauge bottom temp gauge. Right top fan override bottom volt gauge. Since I purchased a roll/light bar I'm now in need of a spot for 3 switches instead of 2. The old spot now houses the switch for the fan and an extra for later add on. I decided to move them to the shifter console. I removed the console and cut/sanded the bottom out of the coin tray. I picked up a Carling switch plate from a boat supply company. Fits the opening fairly well. Dry fitting the switches. Screwed it down with some stainless buttonheads. Done. Run the wires, Made the connections. With the bottom of the coin tray cut out the switches fit the opening near perfect. Installed. Another view. One more. The USB outlet (left) and 12V charger. Pulled the wires for gauges. Running the wire for the Bluetooth mic, oh yeah duct tap. Trim reinstalled with pod. Bluetooth mic location. Gauges installed. Another shot. Finishing the wire connections. Closer. Finished. Buttoning it up. :cheers2: Jeff

I sent you a message.

This is what I did.

I think this is the same one as above... http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?585-4BTA-powered-92-Comanche-build-specs

Worked on the wiring for the Auto Meter gauge. The gauge uses a negative trigger to turn on an accessory (in my case the fan) at a user set temp. The easiest way I found to activate the fan is by simply applying 12+ to the #2 pin on the fan relay... ...but since the gauge uses a negative trigger, I used another relay wired to convert the negative signal to 12v+... I dug through my electrical junk box and found an add on fuse box and a Bosch relay. I mounted these on the lower dash. Not the ideal place, but the holes in the fuse box lined up with a couple of factory holes and I mounted the relay on one of the factory studs. I ran 2 wires into the engine bay and spliced them into the #2 pin's orange wire. Then I wrapped them in some 3M rubber splicing tap (I love this stuff). The power comes from one of the keyed power outlets in the factory fuse box. The yellow wires are for the Auto Meter gauge and the black wire is for an override switch. Got a box from OTRATTW few days ago, can't say enough good things about these folks. Switches. Fan switch and an extra switch mounted. I'm moving the switches for the lights. So now the fan will turn on with the A/C, when the gauge reaches the temp I set or with the override switch. Jeff

Yes, but when it latches it applies 12V+ to #2. Hey thanks for the help digging through this, not a lot of info on this out there.

hornbrod, eagle I appreciate the input. What I ended up doing was using a relay wired like diagram below. Worked like a charm.

Spent the day pulling wires for the gauges and some other stuff. While it's apart I'm swapping the Blaupunkt Kingston head unit out with the JVC KD-X80BT from my M3. Mess. Ran the sending unit for the gauge, bushing for the t-stat housing was kind of hard to find. Mini console. One more for future reference.

Sounds like a good back up for the guage, thanks.

Good stuff, so if you were to run an override switch, would you do the same except substituting a switch for the guage? BTW, thanks for the help, you saved me a lot of time over trying to figure this out on my own.

The new radiator is for an open system and dosen't have the temp sensor bung. I had already bought a late model t-stat housing and I mounted the sensor here... So run the constant switched 12v+ to the #2 and the Autometer ground to #5? But won't 12V+ to the #2 make the fan fun all the time?

Sorry, I'm using this Autometer guage and I'm eliminating the sensor in the radiator.

Makes sense, thanks. The temp guage I have uses an adjustable 12v(-) trigger to activate acessories, and I was trying to avoid using another relay. Using the additional relay, this is what I have in mind. Is my thinking on this correct?

I need a little imput. Can you activate the cooling fan relay by simply grounding the the wire that goes to the #2 terminal on the connector?

Reinstalled the washer tank. Had to be moved forward 1/2", but plenty of room between it and the brake lines.