Megadan

yea well, most of us won't wreck into another MJ. And if we did, we would actually be decent people.

That's fine. Maybe he can steal me a bumper too. It won't happen though, because he won't find either lol

Oh trust me, I let them know how hard to find and expensive these tail lights are. he didn't believe me lol. I told him if he can find one cheaper than what I have seen them for sale, to go ahead and buy it, but it has to be un-cracked. Worst case scenario is I have to go through my uninsured motorist coverage. My only fear is that they will total the truck out, and I like the fact that it has a clean title.

says it all. I'd like a good condition one, but I don't care if it's faded a bit as long as it's not broken or cracked.

Well, I confronted them and worked out a deal (it's obvious they don't have insurance). So, they are going to pay me cash out of pocket so I don't claim it. I already spoke to the police and I can file a report at any time since I have a witness to the event. If they don't come through on Saturday, i'm going straight to the cops with it. That being said, I really need to find a drivers side tail light. Sigh....

Go to leave for work this morning and find a note on my storm door saying "Hey, the lady across the street backed into your truck and drove off" Sure enough, she completely caved in the lower corner of the bed, destroyed the drivers side of the rear bumper bad enough there is no saving it, and broke my tail light. I'm just glad I have a witness, because I am sure they will love it when I show up at their door with a police officer and demand their insurance card. Don't mind me, just an angry rant. Not how I want to start my day.

According to General springs, when they first made these, They give 1 1/2" lift over stock ride height (ie, good stock springs or aftermarket replacements). So if your springs are sagging, they will obviously give a bit more.

I sent Linale an email and got no reply. Do you think General Springs ordered more than one set to have some in stock? I honestly wouldn't know. They may have ordered a small run of them, but only General Springs could really answer that for sure.

Does that $600-900 include a full dyno tune session?

It goes crazy rich, in the 8s! I'm starting to think my base timing is way off.. I'll check tonight! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Yea, I'd check your base timing and fuel mapping. Sounds like either an input parameter is off on a sensor, or you timing or A/F maps are off. Playing the the VE tables is always fun. IMHO, I would go through the initial startup procedures on Bowling Grippo's website like this is a first time start and double check all you settings one at a time. It's tedious, but it will help narrow down the problem

Shipping from Omaha. Now I am curious who they are supplied from here.... I would almost bet my last 2 cents they are supplied by Linale Manufacturing. I kind of want to call them and see if I can order from them. They even offer zinc coating for leaf springs,. :yes:

I'll have to get you a log, mind if I PM or text you? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk I'm at work at the moment, not gonna be much help lol

what do your O2 sensor readings look like when the RPM shoots up? go rich, lean? Timing changes? The problem with Megasquirts is that there are so many modes you can run in, that it requires asking a billion questions to figure out something simple.

Magnacrap flows better than Flowbastards. :hmm: Anyway, this is pretty sweet! I like the use of the T56 trans.

Well I have it idling... somewhat so when I plug the MAP vac hose up to the megasquirt it revs up to 2k and wants to idle there but when I take vac off it wants to idle somewhat normal.. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Is this only when it is warmed up, or at any point? what happens when you start it with the map connected? Same thing or runs normal?

I like this idea! I put stock ones in after doing the clutch and seeing the originals were trash. Did you squirt it in after torqing them down or before? I Used a clamp to hold the two shells together and put a spare bolt through the hole to keep it aligned and layed it down on wax paper on a table and just filled it in from one side. It was a bit tedious because on mine it was a small gap. Let it set 24 hours, then undid it all. Before I did that though, I tried to clean them of any oil/grease with some dawn and hot water and let them dry.

I have ElCheapo rubber mounts. 3 years strong and going. I think my application of Window Weld into the void between the rubber and the upper metal part of the bracket itself on the mout may have extended its life a bit. There was probably a good 1/4" of air gap before that.

What part has you stumped? It took me a little while to grasp tuning a Megasquirt. I did a lot of reading and talked to guys who had done it before before I really ended up getting it.

Woohoo! It does sound good. Congrats! All the hard work has finally payed off. :cheers:

I had poly motor mounts. I wen't back to rubber. Nothing against the poly mounts, but my truck is a tin can without the carpet and headliner, and extra NVH is the last thing I needed. What I did was a compromise with the replacement rubber mounts and Window welded in the gaps between the top of the rubber and the metal bracket BTW, if you do the motor mounts, do yourself a favor and replace all of the hardware for the mount brackets that bolt to the block with some new Grade 8 (or equivalent) if you can.

From what I know with my 88, the Turn signal and reverse lights are on one circuit of the fuse block while the hazard and brake lights are on the other. I had a lot of quirky issues like you are having and I ended up replacing almost every fuse in the block as well as cleaning out some corrosion. Half of them had the plastic falling off the blades, 3 were so loose the fuse would barely stay in and I had to use a pick to pry the slots in a bit (battery disconnected lol). Going over all of your chassis grounds is worth doing as well.

clean mating surfaces and no sealer + proper torque figures/sequences has always been the way I go unless the gasket I am installing has instructions otherwise. I have never had a sealing problem. The other end of the spectrum is servicing the next time around. The gasket is usually much easier to remove the next time around when it's not cooked on with some sort of sealant. Just my 2 cents. everybody does it their way.

Turned out nice! "I will never do anything like this again" = famous last words :yes:

Looks good. Getting the big stuff installed goes a long way toward getting you excited about finishing a project. Looking forward to the first start

Another company called SDTrucksprings sells factory replacement leaf springs for the Comanche. About the same price and quality as General Springs. Standard http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7649 Metric Ton http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20914