M357.5

HD 4 spds differ between manufacturesr so do your homework before buying anything. NP435's are found behind Fords and Dodges......Chevs are SM420's or SM465's. There were apparently a few NP435's found in chevy's as well but are not common. The bellhouseings are different for chev/dodge/ford/amc so you will need the right bell for the engine you use.....be aware that Ford and Dodge use different bellhouseings between thier BIG and Small blocks too. If you want an AMC V8 and an NP435 combo , you can adapt a T176 4 spd AMC bellhouseing to accept the NP435......do lots of research on this , cuz the input shaft lengths are differnt between Fords/Dodges and can also differ in length due to engine/clutch combos. I would recomend finding a donor vehicle that has the engine/trans/t-case setup that you desire........takes all the guess work out of the equation. If it was me.....I wouldnt bother with any of the old 4 spds. I would find an NV4500 already bolted up to a chevy small block and run it......Carbed is easy , anything EFI will take some wireing harnness modifications as well as computer etc......Its alot of work.

Good to hear that its ready to roll..........just do like I do for headlight aiming , hit another tree , then check aim......if not correct , repeat process :D

here's the dilema......Before I got into Jeeps , I was into cars in a big way. Even back then I couldnt leave anything stock....started when I was 16 and bought myself a 79 Trans Am with a T/A 6.6 and a 4 speed. Now the bug has bit again , and I am wanting to build a 30's or 40's Rat Rod pick up. So I have listed my MJ on other sites for sale , am I :nuts: . Just don't have the time or space for 2 toys. If anyone is interested in the MJ let me know and I'll post it in the for sale forum. Some of the mod's are listed in my sig line below.

But the ZJ and XJ/MJ all had the 4.0L and the front suspension is the same....so you would think the motor would be located in roughly the same location. Anyone know for sure ??? If not , no big deal. My cousin has a ZJ limited with the 5.9L in it.....I'll just check his out next weekend. :D

Anyone know if the ZJ V8 motor mounts will bolt right into an MJ ???? I am swappin in a 318 and if factory mounts bolt up it would save time fabbin some up. Never really looked at the 6 Cyl mounts in a ZJ but I am assumeing they are the same as an MJ so it shouldnt be a problem retrofiting the V8 mounts.

Well , I am :Canadaflag: and I would be a little upset too.........but thats about it , don't think I would publicly bash the dude........just wouldnt waste my time tryin to deal with him again. Kinda pointless posting something for sale on a site that is primarily :USAflag: if ya aint willing to ship it or arrange shipping. If ya aint willing to ship just put it in the post so people don't get the wrong idea. Now can we all just get along LOL :cheers:

Square might be onto something.....2 events makes sense due to geographical location of the members. Maybe Square and myself could convoy down from Toronto......GO team :Canadaflag:

Rausch Creek or Paragon , only 11 hour drive for me. Planning a trip for 07 there anyway and it would be cool to wheel with some fellow Comanche owners Tellico would be sweet too but a little far for me.

These are pre built for late model stock car chassis. Tubeular fabricated chassis with interior tin kits etc. The drivers side header actually looks like its upside down and goes over the top of the engine at the back to link up with the passenger side header. The drivers side is swept back a fair bit and I will have to modify it for firewall/hood clearance ( might not have enough room , won't know till I mock it up )

Check out Rubicon Express , they have a good rep. Also check out TnT customs , nice long arm setup. Rock Krawler has some quality stuff too , and there are others as well. My lift started out as a Rubicon Express kit that I have modified heavily......happy with the quality , but if I were to do it over it would be TnT stuff for sure.

Well we won't be seeing an 8.8 in the front cuz they are rear only......and stay away from Rustys stuff. The rest of the plan sounds good.......your pointed in the right direction already ( anyone wanting an MJ is a step ahead of everone else already ) Lots of knoledgeable MJ freaks on here so if ya got any questions you will get them answered. Good luck with the search :D

Thanks for the links SQUARE. Drove the Dakota home today , looks like crap but runs like a champ.....have a feeling I should spend some money on Chromo Shafts and some upgraded U-Joints. The 318/A518 that is in the Dakota already has the 231 on the back of it.....but the t-case has a slip yoke output that is longer than the stock jeep slip yoke. That is why I am trying to find out if the Advance Adapters Heavy Duty SYE kit will bolt up to the 231D. From what I can find the chain in the D version is wider than the J version , but can't seem to find any other info on it ?????

Shoenfeld headers for a Late Model STOCK CAR , will have to build some heat shields for the firewall ( BIG SHIELD ) and modify the hood a bit too so it don't burn the paint off it LOL use lots of header wrap too. P.S this will no longer be street legal.....TRUGGY time.

I have the ability to make my own adapter plate to bolt up a chev/dodge/ford to my AW4.........but I already sold the AW4 and the AWShifting control to a friend , he also bought all my 4.6L stroker stuff ( crank/rods/pistons/cam/4.0L HO block + head etc. ) Printed off the Dakota wireing diagrams off SHOP KEY , looks like an easy harness to modify. 230HP and 290 FT LBS aint bad for a 318.....should gain some more with a cold air intake and a set of headers , maybe 250HP and 310 FT LBS.

Well I have 2 options for engines and 3 tranny's to chose from. Engine options are 1) 73 Dodge 360 with a Holley Projection EFI kit , 670 CFM 2BBL Throttle Body , and a Mallory unilight ignition. 2) 93 Dodge 318 Magnum....factory Dakota computer and custom wireing harness. Tranny options are 1) 727 2) 904 3) A518 Leaning towards the Magnum 318 with the A518 and NP231 combo.......just trying to find out if my Advance Adapters HD SYE will bolt into the 231D ??????

Well my 4.0L is knocking/smokeing so its time to replace it. So I was going to build a 4.6L stroker , gathered up all the parts , and then realized I wanted a V8.......so I sold it all to a friend. So then I decided that this was going to take more time than just a weekend.......so now its off the road for the winter. Well our winters are long so I figure what the hell......rebuild the whole Jeep.........so now the plan is engine/trans/t-case , long arms , tube bed , exo cage and whatever else the wife will let me spend LOL. 3 years ago I bought two 2wd short box Comanches for $400 , and now I have spent 10 times that........another $4000 and it might almost be done LMAO this jeep is killing my pay cheques. :nuts:

I am doing a V8 swap useing a Dodge 360. I know Dakotas used a 231 t-case and the bellhouseing for the 3.9L V6 is the same as for the 5.2/5.9L V8's. Will my 231J bolt up????? or can I swap my Advance Adaters HD SYE into a 231D Dodge tranny's are 23 spline outputs and I have a 23 spline input for my 231 to replace the 21 spline input. What trans can/should I should use ???? 904 , 727 , A518 ????

I am useing a 90's Ford F150 rear flex line........relocated bracket as well. The F150 line is aprox 18" long

Nice TRIANGULATION on the FENCE aswell........no such thing as over built LOL :eek:

Yep.......I subscribe to JP , and have the issue sitting in front of me LOL. Thats where I first seen the TnT stuff. This is going to be a major pain to install cuz after looking at a few pics of this it seems that it may interfear with my rock rails.......Knew i should have waited to build them DAM

My main problem with the short arms is that due to the geometry of the 4 link , it tries to maintain caster through out the full travell of the suspension.......this is causing the driveshaft u-joint at the pinion yoke to bind prmaturely before full droop. So I currently have my travel limited to keep this from happening. My only options that I have come up with are the long arms.....which keep the pinion angle constant throughout the travell......and the other is an offset trunion u-joint from tom woods , which gives 10 degrees more angularity than a stock u-joint before binding. In unlimited form with the drveshaft out , it will droop at least 4/5" more without binding anything else........I have already talked myself into the TnT Y-Link. Just waiting for an email to see if I own the kit I was looking at. :D

Anyone else useing this setup by chance. Or know someone that is........Been thinking about going with long arms and selling my RE superflex short arms. The chance to do it is here.......but unsure about this setup , its a toss up between these and the RE long arms ??????? Any feed back on the TnT components is appreciated THANKS.

NP231 is a tough case.......but this case had seen 3 Jeeps worth of mileage and had never been rebuilt. Not the cases fault for coming apart....the chain slapped the inside of the case and jumped teeth for 2 trail runs before it bit the dust. Big hole , lots of throttle and total disregaurd for the well being of the Jeep = FAILURE :headpop:

Wasnt a question about breaking runnin 36's on stock 30/35.......you asked if they would rub without cutting fenders. I was just letting you know that my rig has full width axels and therefore rubs with 36's even with the majority of the fenders cut off.......you may have less rubbing with the stock width axels than my rig does. My 35's only rubbed a little with the stock width axels and minor fender trimming.....with aprox 8" lift :D won't know till you try , I say go for the 36's Stock Jeep parts that couldnt handle the punishment of my right foot include 1) D30 axel shafts 2) D35 axel shafts 3) D35 ring and pinion 4) NP231 5) 3 peugeot BA10's 6) Rear drive shaft.....pretzled 7) TOO many D30 unit bearing hubs to count......they don't seem to like 35" tires on 10" wide rims. Broke lots of other stuff too , but these are the main driveline problems.

I am running 36x13.50 Swamper IROK's on 15x10 AR's with 4" BS.....and my rig has about 8" lift in it. My tires still rub , and my fenders are cutout right upto the body line......I should be useing a longer bumpstop than the Rubicon Kit came with. I just let it flex until the tire pushes the body out of the way LOL.........You might be OK if your rig's axels are stock width , my rig is 83" wide from outsie of tires with the full width F150 axels. :D