philbert001

I just did mine a few weeks ago, and I used the molded rubber pan gasket while I was in there. I think it was like $22 at vatozone. I'm glad I did, because my oil pickup is sucking air, so I need to get back in there and replace it!

Here's my 05' Buell XB12R. I painted her a few years ago. I wanted to paint her again this past winter, but didn't get to it. It's on the road for the season now, so it'll have to wait till this winter for a facelift! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

He has a TBI motor. Sorry. I didn't know that. I've never had a jeep with 2/3 of a motor! 86-90 2.5 was TBI. Went to MPFI in 91. All 4.0s are MPFI. :thumbsup: I knew all 4.0's were MPFI, but I haven't even looked at a jeep 4 banger, much less wrenched on one!

He has a TBI motor. Sorry. I didn't know that. I've never had a jeep with 2/3 of a motor!

Here's my 96' with 4.0/242/2 inch budget boost/soft 8's and 30's Image Not Found Image Not Found She's my first jeep, and I still love her!

I am going to agree here. The only thing a TB spacer does is add to the volume of fuel/air mix, and if you are running MPI, it won't work as it would stirring up the air/fuel coming in, and adding a couple of cubic inches of available volume. Rob L. :yes:

agree I wish I had done this! I had oil dripping in my eyes, ears, nose, etc.!

The only way a TB spacer is useful, is on a TBI, or carbed motor.

IFS Dodge & Ferd. :smart: (some of the Ranger guys even swap IFS 35's in as an upgrade. :dunno: ) Wow, if the 35 is an upgrade, what the HELL was in there before? IFS!

Not sure what that pipe installer is. :dunno: :cheers: Thanks again bud! :banana: You are better than Hanes and Chiltens combined! (And the pipe installer is my right hand!)

Can I RTV that, or do I have to replace it? Well, either way, that sounds like a cheap fix! I'll do that, and I'll check the pump for damage/wear while I'm in there. I'm glad I was smart enough to use a lube locker on the pan when I did the rear main! What's the feeler/clearance for the oil pump? I have a Grand cherokee manual, but they never had a renix, so some parts are useful, some are not! Thanks for the quick responses/help guys!

Filter is good. I am simple as head work goes, but not that simple! :fs1: I pulled cleaned and reinstalled both number 1 rockers, and pushrods. still no flow. I didn't see any excessive crud or sludge in the pushrods, so the problem is lower than that. I guess I should have checked the pump out when I did the pan gasket, and rear main! I also had the pickup tube out. I put it back in the same way it came out. it is a metal to metal seal, right? Could I have lost a seal that should be there? Thus causing it to suck air? Also, what is the track record on the lifters in these motors? Is that something to look at, Or are they more of a last resort? Where is the pressure port, and how much pressure should I be looking for/how much is not enough! Thanks guys!

It's the number 5 intake valve. Where is the pressure port on the renix head? I can borrow a gauge at work tomorrow. Where should I go from there? It was wrecked hard in the left front. bent the axle, and put a 3 inch round, half inch deep dent in the side of the oilpan where the sump is. I wouldn't think that would affect the pickup, but I'm not positive.

My MJ has a knock while driving, and I thought it was a collapsed lifter, but I pulled the valvecover, and ran it, and she's only getting oil through the pushrod and rocker on one valve. It's an 89' renix 4.0. It doesn't have the full gauge cluster, but the oil pressure dummy light only comes on at super low idle. (like 500 rpm) I had the oilpan off, when I replaced the pan gasket, and rear main, and everything looked pretty clean. It did sit for like 3 years between being crashed, and me getting it together and drivable. I just got her up and running and on the road like a week ago. any Ideas? Thanks guys!

I am a professional painter in a dealership bodyshop. I also restore hotrods/muscle-cars, and do custom work on the side. I have 1 glass guy I use for my side work, because I know what kind of hack jobs can ensue if you use someone you don't trust. When I am working on a 1/4 million dollar 1970 hemi-Cuda, I know that I can't afford to replace the irreplaceable. Our little Manche's aren't 1/4 million dollar cars, but I expect my sub-contractors to use the right tool for every job. That's my point. There IS a right tool for every job, and the sawzall attachment IS the right tool for SOME jobs, but is NEVER the right tool for a 22 year old ANYTHING! It's the fastest way to cut out the glass, but any glass guy worth his salt knows that on ANYTHING that old, you use the piano wire to cut the urethane. Moral of the story is that If the kid had the knowledge and skills to do the job properly, you wouldn't be in this situation. An insurance company would write the repair estimate on your dash for a comperable condition JY dash. If that condition is brittle, but un cracked, then so be it. That's what you are owed! If this gets ugly, let me know. Any body shop can write you an estimate for that repair. You don't have to go to a Jeep Dealer. Shops all write estimates based on a fairly standard estimating system. If you need an estimate to remove and replace an the dash, let me know. I can have my boss write and E-mail you an estimate. Good luck bud!

Maaco is guaranteed to charge you way more than you are expecting to pay, and will still do a crappy job that won't last but a few years. You may do a $#!&ty job that won't last, but you will learn, and save money at the same time!

I put 96 s-10 seats in my 89 MJ, and it was a bit of a pain, just because the MJ hump is like 2-3 times taller than the S-10 hump. If you are gonna do it, have your scrap metal bin ready, because you are gonna be fabbing all the brackets.

I'd be interested to see what kind of paintjob that'll get ya'. It may be a Maaco type deal, wherre they charge you extra for masking, extra for pulling mouldings, door handles, etc. I would say it's worth looking into though. With the automotive market as bad as it is right now, we may be surprised. they may do great work, and are just trying to get some work in the door. Who knows. Let us know what you come up with!

I may be reading this wrong, but You don't want to paint right over top of your wet primer. You want to prime it, let it dry for at least 24 hours, then sand out all imperfections, and sand the entire surface smooth with 400-600, then paint it.

Depends on the color change. If you are going from red to black, then I would pull the bed. I was going to go with the white with black eliminator graphics, but didn't want to pull the bed, so she went red again. If you are going from one red to another red, then you should be fine not pulling the bed.

:no: :no: :no: :no: :no: The only reason to remove the clear is if it's peeling. if it's in decent shape, you can sand it lightly with 600, and paint over it. Any where you sand through the clear, should be primed. Any where you do body work, needs to be primed. If you are priming the whole truck, then just buzz over the whole thing with 240, and prime it. You don't need to remove the clear. The factory finish, unless it is letting go, has a stronger bond to the panel than whatever primer you are using. Only remove the finish where you are feathering out imperfections, or doing bodywork. Find the post called, New Paint? I did a pretty thorough write up on advice for painting in less than perfect situations/for your first time. Hopefully it'll help!

Good to know! Thanks bud!

I'm with the others on keeping her close to stock height. I put some tired 2 inch springs in the front of mine to get her sitting level, and I love the stance right there!

I'll try to get some bracket pics. It wasn't horrible. I probably could have done them better, but I was going for structurally sound, not pretty! The MJ tranny hump is way taller than the s-10's, so I had to raise the whole thing up. The front inner mounts had to be mounted to the tranny hump itself. I welded studs to 14 gauge 3 inch plates, then welded the plates to the tranny hump. I knew that direct welding the studs to the tranny hump, they would have pulled off in no time. The front outer mounts had to be raised about 3 inches, and I bolted them through the frame rail lip for strength. the rear outers both sat level on the floor, and bolted through the framerail lip. the right rear inner got a 2 inch riser made of 2x4 box, and bolted through the floor in two places, the 2x4 box distributed the weight, because I couldn't get to the frame, so it's just bolted through the floorpan, and I didn't want to compromise the floor. The tranny hump extends out more on the driver's side because of the T-case, so the driver's rear inner mount is welded to the hump, just like on the front inners. I got the seats free. that's the only reason I put them in there. If I had to buy them, I just would have found some nice clean XJ buckets. All in all, I'm really happy with how the S-10 seats fit and look in there. I say, if it's free, make it work!

I would be interested to know this too, as I have a 380 horse built 302 that I'm planning on strapping in the ole MJ. For me, It's not weather or not my AX-15 will last, but how long it will last before I have to upgrade to a full size driveline. I'm not wheeling mine or running big tires until I do blow it up/replace it, but after that, all bets are off!