holeski

Head gasket or cracked head. I have coolant coming out the tail pipe. Was the same issue I had before I swapped this motor in. Off course I have to pull the head and verify, but with all the problems I have been having it makes sense. So here is my big question. I have all the parts from a 96 XJ that threw a rod. Can I swap that head and intake on to this block and would it be worth doing? After finding coolant coming from the tail pipe I just pulled the head. No the gasket doesn't really look all that bad. But there was some sort of sand or grit in all the water jackets. Also the cylinder walls look pretty scorn. I hate motor work, I just don't understand everything. At this point I don't feel comfortable just sticking a new gasket on. I think the whole thing needs gone though and tested for cracks.

Anyone have a "good" vacuum diagram that shows which lines go where? Not just the ones that lump all the lines in the same group. I don't think its causing this problem, but can't help it.

I'm just going to bring this back from the dead and say thanks. I have been needing this. :cheers:

The strength to weight ratio of bigger tube offers little benefit. For the weight of the truck the 1.75, .120 wall DOM is almost over kill. I wanted to keep as much of the bed useful as I could and bigger tube would not have aloud that. I should get some photos of how I have it mounted, but the front has 6 1/2" bolts per side and the rear 2 1/2" bolts per side.

Yeah thats fine, there is no rush. I have other more pressing thing to fix in the mean time, but thanks.

I made it with 1.75 .120 wall DOM with 1.5 .085 wall DOM cross braces. Light bar rotates up and back for tight trails and long summers when the sun doesn't set. I have some more stuff I want to do to it just haven't had time.

These are what I'm talking about http://www.cdxetextbook.com/steersusp/s ... valve.html

The pumps our Jeeps use, YJ,XJ,MJ,TJ and a few others use what is called a TC pump. As the motor turns and rotates the pulleys,it spins the pump. Inside the fritting is a metering valve or restricting valve that restricts the pumps full output at any given speed. Some of these use tiny stacks of shims, a ball and spring to make the GPM variable depending on engine RPM. Different makes use different restrictions and pulley sizes. Which you could also change the size of the pulley for more power. By enlarging this orifice all you are doing is using more of the pumps capability. Doesn't hurt it at all unless its a weak or warn pump to start with. If you make it too large you will have over responsive steering at high speeds. My forums gallery crashed a few months back so I lost all my photos to show you. Hydro Asst, needs more GPM flow to move the ram at the same rate as the mechanical box. If not you have all the power in the world, but have to turn very slow since to are fighting the ram. I have an AGR rock ram on my MJ with 33x12.50 tires with Stauns. Overkill and not worth the money if you are not wheeling hard with big tires. Now my YJ with 40x14.5 the rock ram is needed to turn at a dead stop.

yeah for the moat part, what brackets were used and where they mount.

I think its been running rich, now runs for a short time and starts to buck and miss. Changed cap, rotor, oil and filter and seemed better until I drove it. Changed the temp sensor on the back of the block and not only did that seem to fix the gage reading low but now I magically have heat now too. Messed with the oil pressure sending unit and its reading better for now. Not sure if there is still a pressure issue now or not. I changed the o2 sensor, no change. Disconnected the cat and yup all busted up, BUT isn't blocking flow and runs just the same without it. CPS tests good, but think I might be changing it anyway. Maybe try and change plugs again, week spark, vacuum leak I can't find???

You can change the bore of the TC style pumps by drilling to get more flow though the box. You can get close to 4gal a min by doing this to a stock pump, but if you pump is going out it could just make it die that much faster. It is fine to do to new or pumps in new shape. Just do it a little at a time or it will get squarely at hi-way speeds. Inside were the hose screws in there is a fitting you remove, under that a neckdown is in there, pull it out and dill it one size bigger. Makes a huge chance so don't go to big to fast. Also helps to pick up a small tranny cooler and plum this into the return side of the pump. Not only more volume but keeps it cooler and from burning up. Ran a good PSF never ATF. again never ATF, it is not the same. I like Royal Purple, but I'm running hydro asst so any good one will do.

I was board last night and was messing around with it. Found out even though the NV3550 is longer, you can rotate the shifter cap around to point backwards, thus putting the shift handle dead on. This let me move everything else back in the stock place and gave the T/C shifter full range again. As mush as I like the Novak setup thats a lot of coin plus almost half its price just to get it to my door. So I'll weld up something for now, try to get some pics when I do. In the mean time let me know if you guys run buy anything to do with the Swap and the linkage.

I have been having that same issue for the last year or so, pulled and checked everything time after time, with no to very little change. An just like you when checking across the battery everything is fine. It's more annoying as anything, I get worried since I'm so use to my YJ dash readings and I forget the MJ is off. hornbrod you said you have calibrated your own, is this something you can do with the stock cluster gages?

No I haven't check the oil pressure, it had just stopped running. After checking every thing over and over I started at square one and reset the motor to TDC. Reset the oil pump, distributor, cap, rooter and plug wires. It must have been timing as it did start this time, ran ok for a few min but then ruff idle and died. I am thinking EGR is giving it a crapy idle now and maybe some vacuum leaks also. I will track that stuff down, see how its running, redo the compression test and oil pressure also.

So what does it mean when the dipstick flies out and smoke comes out of the everywhere when you crank it? Really at this rate I should have left the stock motor in.

I was looking at that last night too, but with the NV3550, I am not so sure It will work out do to space and its size. Has anyone ever seen one of the XJ's with the NV3550 stock?

I love how it bends after you land on the front end from a jump. I wish my MJ did that in real life..

When I stripped the XJ I had built for my ex, I decided to feed it to my MJ. I swapped the motor, tranny and T/C over plus so much more. Since the XJ was mostly for trail use I hacked the floor up pretty good and used YJ parts to make the T/C linkage work with the NV3550. Now that I ripped the BA10 out on the MJ and swapped the 3550 in I can't find a good way to hook up the linkage. This is one of my daily drivers, live in Alaska now and almost always have my son with me, I don't want to make a mess of the floor boards. Needless to say I'm rolling without 4wd but at least it doesn't pop out of gear anymore! Is anyone running one in their Comanche or seen someone that is, that has good Np231 linkage or brackets?

I just ran a compression test. The test was done cold in a garage since I have a non starting issue now also. #1~~~130psi #2~~~130psi #3~~~112/117/118psi #4~~~117/117psi #5~~~135psi #6~~~136psi

I pulled the oil pan, valve covers, intake and all the little stuff off on the stand. Changed ever seal and lubed everything I could. Then treated it like new brake in. Changed the oil and filter at around 500 miles. Yesterday I did just that with some sea-foam. I had it running and it blew all kinds of junk out the tail pipe, idled find but spit and spurred if I stepped on the gas, but now it doesn't want to start at all. turns over a lot better now though. I pulled the plugs which are new and cleaned them up. They looked fouled which I guessed they would be. Next I'll check for spark at the coil and see if I didn't mess something new up it just needs to burn off the sea-foam.

I plan on doing that and a mechanic oil pressure check today. Alone with new oil and filter. I even have a few extra sensors I might swap in too just to be sure. I'll post up my findings.

Pegged on the pin 1/4" past 80 on start up. After a few min between 60-80 at ideal and pegged past 80 on the highway. Plus the globs of oil coming out the crank case. Every once and awhile it will drop down the the normal 40 range. I know get a mechanical presser reading, but all the blow by tells me its going to be high. Bad rigs, but only after 50-60K? thought maybe the rings are stuck from stilling so long and thats why. On my 4th thermostat, all bench tested before and after instal. Running 10w30 right now, but doesn't seem to matter what weight I have run as it acts the same may.

The motor in my 87 comanche was shot. We swapped one in from my 88 XJ, couldn't have had more then 50-60k miles on it, but sat for some time along with the newer style cooling setup (but that was on even before the motor swap) my issues are these: Runs cold and will not warm up via gage and feel has little to no cab heat (blows luke warm air but stops blowing at higher speeds) very poor gas mileage (guessing stock in open loop) high oil pressure via stock gage upon start up even when in heated garage blow by from crank case into air filter (worse at high speeds) So the motor itself is not getting hot at all by feel so I don't think its a gage issue. I have changed the thermostat a few times and bench tested them to make sure they work. Could my high presser and no heat be from the same thing? Never did this in the XJ so what am I missing? Could low vacuum some where do this? An air pocket, but I have burped this thing over and over with no change.

Remember this is all out of things I had laying around and scrap steel. Right now it's balanced really well.