Automan2164

:agree: Amen brother. Rob L.

Welcome to the sickness. As I am sure you have heard, most boards are picture driven... So let me be the first to say, :needpics: Welcome, and remember, there are no stupid questions. :cheers: Rob L. :D

What kinda toilet cleaner do you use Brent? Looks like it strips the hell out of it. Rob L. :brows:

Yay? Rob L. :D

Boo. Rob L.

Boo. Rob L.

Without question, Randys ring and pinion. Always have the best deals, and always A+ customer service and advice. www.ringpinion.com Rob L. :cheers:

Those are the baja flares, not the dually flares, although might work with some fab. Rob L.

Boo. Rob L.

Sounds like someone had a tow rig... Dad's hummin' Cummins out of storage? Rob L.

Tells you that the old sensor was bad, and making it run hella rich, since it thought it was lean all the time... Maybe disconnect the battery for a bit to clear any stored memory of the lean conditions, and then try again in an hour or so. Touch the cables together before hooking back up to neutralize any residual voltage. It might just be that it doesn't quite know what to do with the new input of balls out rich, and need to forget it was reading lean and trying to dump fuel for so long... Rob L.

Hmm. Might want to trace the wires back to the PCM and/or the condition of the connector. Rob L.

The torx bolts are ok... Not really a problem with the right tools. IE, the inverted torx socket. No big deal there... Or at least as much as some people project them to be. Rob L.

Have you tried putting the old sensor back in? Rob L.

Agree X1000. Something so rare doesn't belong on a truck, unless its a truck of SUBSTANTIAL importance... IE, First, last, or only... Rob L.

Hmm. Seems off. It should go rich (.9V / 900 mV) when you rev it up, then go back to switching at a sustained rpm. But if its pegged at .9V something ain't right... Rob L.

WD - 40 is not penetrating. It's a lubricant. You need to use Penetrating Blaster. :rotfl2: everytime someones gotta say it :yes: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: Because its true? Rob L. :hmm:

If you do any wheeling and droop the axle, they will fall out. Those things are made for gypsy shops to stick in the sagged out springs of older cars whose owners can't afford to buy new springs. For the 30 bucks they cost you, you probably could have bought a set of real coil spacers. :agree: Rob L.

Use the battery if you can.. But also check the resistance on the sensor ground... Is the sensor switching or is it pegged? Rob L.

The most I would suggest on a spacer is 2"... Pick up some quality ones... If you want 3" get some good springs, and don't CHEAP OUT ON THOSE!!!!!!!! The plow will DESTROY cheap springs. At 3" you will also need new LCA's and brake lines. Rob L.

This didn't happen until you put in their crap sensor... Still have the old one? The 13.9V Should be the heater circuit, and the .9 v is the sensor being pegged at rich... So it sees that... Hmm. Maybe the "replacement" sensor has the wires crossed differently? If its telling the CPU .9V constant, it should be leaning itself out... Rob L.

Get a pair of poly spacers made for a jeep off of ebay. Probably only run you like $30. Rob L.

Doesn't really look like one... I would suggest buying a quality polyurethane one for your Jeep (MJ/XJ/ZJ/TJ work) and not using what looks like a truck-stop one size fits all doorstops. How thick is that thing? Rob L.

Is that supposed to be a coil spacer? Rob L.

Is the voltage switching back and fourth like it should? Or is it just burying it at 900 mV? What does it do when you unplug the sensor? Does it act normal? Rob L.