BootsNTrucks

Update: ordered the bearing from Quadratec. Went into the axle shaft no problem. Put everything back together in a couple hours. Put almost a 1000 miles on it since and not a drop has come out. Thanks guys for all your help!

So obviously I would like to get this fixed. In the research I've done so far it seems the most popular ones to buy (I'd like to save money and make it myself but I just don't have time) are C-Rok and ORGS SBS kits. Now the seems the C-Rok is a bolt on good for preventive measures. Problem is mines already cracked. People keep talking about this ORGS one but I can't find it or the company. Did they go under? Anybody else have a favorite? I would love it if it had a place to tie the bumper in as well for when I go to add an aftermarket bumper in the future.

So after waiting for my seals to arrive (I stupidly choose the cheapest shipping) I installed it (first try!) with my nifty all thread washer deal. Now when I when back to install the axle I noticed metal shavings in side the axle. It appears to be from a bearing of sorts but once again trying to find it is proving to be a difficult task. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-axle-differential-parts/dana30-front-cherokee-xj.htm I thought it was #22 but the pieces appear to be more of a bearing than bushing ideas?

You'd have to get one out of an old VW bunny pickup. Something old enough that my radio has a more complex computer than the engine does. Speaking of computers.....where is the SOB? My buddies '92 XJ has it mounted right under the hood nice and easy off on the side. I can't find mine anywhere! Above is bad information. The Rabbit pickup had a 48 hp 1500 cc engine, then a 52 hp 1600 cc engine. You do not want to use that in a Jeep. No torque/no power.You want a TDI engine from a 96 thru 2003 VW. Factory 90 hp and 149 to 157 lb/ft torque. These are transverse mounted in the Golf, Jetta, and Passat. Reason being, they are relatively inexpensive and especially free of smog equipment. 2004 and later engines got much more complicated. Acme Adaptors sells a kit to mount the engine in the Suzuki Samari using either the Suzuki trans or a Toyota Truck transmission. Here is a link for one fellows conversion of a Toyota pickup to a TDI: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=317802 There are literaly dozens of these conversion threads posted on the TDI club. There are also a smaller number of threads about conversions into Jeeps. The HPA kit is very specific and expensive. It uses a later 2004/2005 Pumpe Duce engine. I think you can use the Toyota truck bellhousing on the AX15 Jeep transmission. My particular 96 TDI has been "chipped" to bump the torque up to 225 lb/ft. with no loss in reliability or MPG. I have about 250K on the engine. Also have a spare TDI engine that may, one day end up in my MJ. A couple of TDI club members have 97/97 TDIs with bigger turbos that put out 225 hp and 380+lb/ft of torque (at the front wheels). And still deliver 40+ MPG 225 hp and 380 lb/ft of torque is way more than enough to move your Comanche any place and any time you want to go. Talk about gitty up and go.

Somehow you have been very lucky, ive seen lots of bad turbos, injectors,flat cams, and damaged lifters in the ALH TDIs. Couldn't begin to count how many I've torn into.The only issue we've had was when my mom drove the car full time (they bought it new) she wasn't driving the car hard enough and the turbo sooted up because of the EGR. Stupid smog regulations always screwing $#!& up. That brings up another issue. Anybody know if it's possible to swap a gas truck to a diesel truck? I know physically I'm talking about smog regulations. Obviously the diesel motor is not gunna be able to match the 4.0Ls tolerances....

You ever make it out to So Cal hit me up. Probably still have it.

Now that's going out with a bang haha

So for future reference how would I tell if a truck had limited slip/lockers all the way around? Is there an easy test? Supposedly there is a limited in the rear (unless somebody swapped it out or broke it). I was cleaning out the glove box and found an warning inside the glove box.....

I would swap to an open system. Cost about $50 (parts) + $345 (fancy all aluminum radiator). Does wonders for the truck in stop and go traffic on hot days.

Where you at? I cut my spare carrier off and made my own when the cable broke. It's probably still sitting behind the barn.....

You'd have to get one out of an old VW bunny pickup. Something old enough that my radio has a more complex computer than the engine does. Speaking of computers.....where is the SOB? My buddies '92 XJ has it mounted right under the hood nice and easy off on the side. I can't find mine anywhere!

I had the no start thing too. Solved it by running a wire from battery to starter and wiring it to a small black button under the dash. Horn does that too. My problem seems to be the button in the steering wheel. Not positive. Always been more pressing issues. AC might wana check the freon charge. These things (mine does) have a kill switch that it'll turn on and try and run and if there isn't enough freon in the system it'll shut itself down to try and avoid burning itself up. Similar drain. Can't figger out what though. It's pretty big. Causes a decent spark when reconnecting the battery.

Gas milage? Durability? Power? Ahhhh who am I kidding I just wana do it so I can roll coal outta the Jeep haha

So how much would it decrease if I already had a old TDI engine/tranny laying around? Yeah those 1.9L '99-'03ish Jettas can be made to run 14s without too too much work. After a bit more research on TDI club apparently you need a really really old TDI because the new one has so many sensors and safety features. I was reading about a guy that was swapping a '03 engine into his '00 Jetta after his daughter blew the original. He was have issue upon issue with the new safety features that had been added in just 3 years. damn shame. I was thinking that would be awesome because those TDIs are definitely one of the better diesel engines out there (mines pushing 270,000 with no issues) and there are soooo many parts for them. Out of curiosity how do you think an AX-15 would hold up with that extra torque in the low gears? TDI: 100 HP & 177 FT/LBS 4.0: 190 HP & 235 FT/LBS

So i was at work today and a guy rolled up with a '85 Toyota 4 Runner on 35s that looked MEAN. Anyway it sounded odd and for the life of me I couldn't figure out why, until I realized it sounded very very similar to my VW TDI that is the new DD. Started talking with the guy and it turns out that yes they had swapped a VW TDI in it. Guy didn't know when exactly but it was done awhile ago (inherited the truck from his dad) Anyway it got me thinking. After some investigate it seems that same company that designed the AX-15 (Aisin AI) also designed the trannys for Toyota. They appear to be very similar. Back in the day apparently there was a kit you could buy (I dunno I wasn't even alive) that had all the hardware to mount a VW TDI in a Toyota. Has anyone heard of people doing this or even know if its possible?

Wasn't the Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup a rear wheel drive front engine diesel?

To be honest my basis on the truck having lockers/limited slip is based on when the 12k (6 ton) pettibone ran out of diesel in middle of the road I hooked up kicked it in 4L and left serious rubber under all 4 tires. (But it moved!!!!!) My previous experience with offroad has been limited to a '69 Toyota FJ40 land cruiser on that when it was it 4x4 only the the driver rear and passenger front tires wanted to dig. I am a greenhorn and will be the first to admit it. If I was the all knowing 4x4 and MJ expert I wouldn't be on here now would I?

#21 should do it for you. You will need to make a tool for installing it. What some people do is take a length of threaded rod and attach a few VERY LARGE washers to the end. Slide that into the axle tube from the outer and and use that to tap the new seal into place. I bought a big piece of all thread with washers and nuts hoping it'll work. Also I'm 90% it's #21 as well problem is there's 2 #21s and I haven't been able to find my calipers to git in there and measure to figure out which one.

Update: After going to 3 auto parts stores and buying what was supposed to be the right seal I have up and looked online. I found this nifty blow up. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-axle-differential-parts/dana30-front-cherokee-xj.htm I think the part I need is the #21. Ordered it and it's on the way. Side note: talked to an old boy that used to work at the Jeep dealer (when it was still Jeep) back in the day (probably the same one the truck was bought at. Weren't a whole lot in So Cal I guess) Anyway he said he remembered the dealers offering a limited slip option on the front of these trucks. Dunno that could just be a old man blowing wind out his @$$ but he knew about this weird vacuum actuator thing that everyone else keeps looking at me like I'm crazy. I do think it's a little odd somebody would have bothered to add limited slip to a Dana 30 years later.

That appears to be the correct seal. Apparently this axle is more common in YJs. Thank you for the help I'll let you know how this works. I think its the D710068 Out of curiosity if you could not buy an MJ with limited slip or a locker in the front why does it dig so well? Out on our construction site last week the 12 ton Pettibone died in the middle of the road. I hooked up and kicked it in 4 wheel drove and after enough wheel spinning I got it moving. Afterwards there was rubber under all 4 four tires. and this was when we used the truck to yank a stump looks like it was digging with all tires to me. Any ideas?

So today my front axle decided it was gunna drop most of its gear oil out the passenger side of the axle onto the steering knuckle. I have searched forums and google but no luck. Most questions and diagrams and write ups appear to be for a rear 30. Also my truck appears to have factory limited slip front and back hence the few write ups that are available don't work. It appears that the seal that is on the passenger side of vacuum axle lock actuator is bad. I have been to 2 auto parts stores and bought one of every seal they had for this axle and none of seals are the right diameter. Where can i get the seal(s)? if anyone has experience on this axle please share, need all the help i can get

Ok so i know this is a old post but I hope somebody still sees this..... So I have gear oil dripping (more like a small river) out of the passenger side of the front axle where the axle shaft slides into the axle housing. I look inside and I can see oil all the way down the axle.....So does this mean the inner seal (inside the pumpkin) is bad AND the outer seal is bad? or just the outer seal that is bad? Also how do I tell if it is "clipped" or not?

If is such an issue readjusting the door hinges after you cut them and take them off why not sharpie outline them before you remove them to at least get you back in the same ballpark?

Not familiar with the term "AAI" or "bastard pack". What do they mean? Also it looks like the leaf pack is all there. The previous owner had it for 2 years or so. He had a pack rat tool box in it that was completely full of tools. Said it was in the truck since he bought it. That is my guess why the springs are so worn. How much drivability will I lose with the 4.5 verus the 3/3.5? The XJ drove up to Big Bear from SD (150 miles) following my 7.3l F-250 (towing my MJ) at 65mph no problem. Also it seems that most people on here feel that anything over 3ish need to get new control arms, track bar, steering, brake lines, etc. right? Truck has a gas tank skid pan. Judging by the amont of marks in it the thing is worth it's weight in gold. But it seems most tranny/engine/tranfercase skid pans only work with the factory "short arm" kits. Wouldn't i need it to work with the long arm kits as well if I went 3.5 or 4.5? What size firestick?

So I just got back from a wheel trip at Big Bear with a Rubicon Unlimited on '35s and a XJ with a 3.5" lift. This was the trucks first trip involving anything even remotely technical or anything with obstacles. All previous experience has been dirt roads and little things. Several things have been brought to my attention. 1) I need a lift kit. Badly. 3.5" seemed to be good for the XJ. Seems like a good place to start since I can stay with the 31s that are on the truck. Seems that the vast majority of the kits include the "Add-A-Leaf". Problem is my leafs are toast (Pretty much flat). I was thinking would the add a leaf would better if I had the spring refurbished first? According to my research it seems that my stock track bar, brake lines and control arms will still work, I think. Thoughts? 2) I need a skid pan to protect the tranny/transfer case, cross member and cross member brace/support. Will an XJ pan/plate work since it is before the bed? I figure the one thing that will pretty much kill the truck mid trail is ripping the crossmember out on a rock. 3) I need a better CB antenna. The $15 magnetic one ain't cutting it no more. What are y'all running? Its going to be attached to my 1970s antique Cobra 23 channel. 4) Rock Sliders are are needed. As far as I can tell nobody sells a set, I'm gunna have to make them. Pictures of how you guys did it? Also advice. 5) Body Armor is probably a good idea. I understand she is gunna get beat but no sense in hammering something if it can be avoided. This is kinda part of the sliders but am thinking mainly for the rear quarter panels behind the rear wheels. Trucks a long bed so she has a tendency to drag her big @$$. 6) I need to add a way to pull on the truck from the front without bending the crap outta the unibody. How'd y'all do it? Oh by the way truck is no longer a daily driver so that is no longer an issue. Having said that I would still like the truck to drive reasonably. Thanks guys!