Esgar

Reviving a long dead thread here. I've got an oddball variant of these two. Apparently only the 1990MJ mid and end year MJ's have it. It's a standard H.O. motor, using the Renix layout for pulley/device locations, however it uses a 6 inch longer belt than both the standard H.O. or the Renix.

The fabled DirtEater graces my page? I'm honored! I like the build, I just wish it had been documented better, honestly. yea i kinda skimped on the build thread. anyway, my 14b came from a 2005 chevy 2500. techincally, i believe its called an AAM 11.5; came with disc and ebrakes from the factory and 4.10s There's to my understanding, a factory disc 14B that isn't built by American Axle, that looks identical, only with the smaller 10.5 ring instead of the AAM's 11.5 ring.'

Nah, I'm going with a kingpin D60 high-pinion, OTK hydro-assist, and probably an OX to fill the belly of the beast.

Damn that's sexy looking! The fabled DirtEater graces my page? I'm honored! I like the build, I just wish it had been documented better, honestly.

Can you get pictures of how he did his? I'm bouncing a few ideas around, and so far, that's the only 14B MJ I am aware of.

For those that haven't seen a D35C axle shaft next to a 14 bolt 30 spline, here ya go.

So I've been a member for a while, but now it's time to start my build thread. I promise only one thing: It will be slow. 1989 MJ (obviously) 4.0/5 speed/4x4 longbed, 731,xxx miles (engine only). While not new to the Jeep scene by any means, this is my first MJ, had her for a little over a year now, and haven't had time nor money to do anything to her. Until now. How you see it is how I got it last July, not sure what the previous owner was thinking with the horrid primer splotching and whatnot. When I got her, she'd been run into a concrete barrier and bent the D30, so when I got her, the first thing I did was ditch the Disco 30 for a non disco 30, and things stopped there. Today I went and scored me a new shiny thing to drop underneath the beast after discovering that the spiders in the fantabulous D35 were starting to fragment, and knowing their pension for longevity, I figured something a bit stronger was in order, and this is where I get slightly stupid. The old D35 (everyone's favorite.) ((Don't mind the tape measure, it was for size comparison.)) Now for the new. Meet the GM Corporate 14 bolt. For the few that do not know, it's a full floating one ton axle, this particular model is from a 1996 Suburban, and sports 4.11 gearing with a factory Detroit locker.

Any updates?

Well, yours probably ISN'T the wires, if you haven't changed them for a few months prior, but every last thing you described fit mine to a T and it was my wires, but being brand new, I thought nothing of them, instead my focus was on the new CPS I had to put in due to a lapse in memory while dropping the transmission.

Well, I was having this exact same problem, checked and cleaned every sensor/connector I could find, swapped known good parts in to test, and back off when they weren't the cure. I kicked myself repeatedly when I figured out what it was. DO NOT OVERLOOK THE SIMPLE THINGS! Mine was the brand new spark plug wires I'd put on it at the same time I'd put a new CPS and grounding straps. Put the ancient ones back on and she runs perfectly fine. Wasted a lot of time and money on trying to find some sensor being bad, or checking if the fuel pump was burning out.

You guys are all missing it! It has that ultra super rare 2.8 which they only built 500 of, don'tcha know?

Alex, you @$$, you're making me spend more money than I can afford right now! Seriously though, beautiful project, and I, like many others, cannot wait to see that beast rolling around with the sexy sound of a twin screw pumping out even more tire smoke.

Any new updates on this thing yet? I'm seeing so much headache and frustration here, it's saddening honestly.

Reviving a deadish thread. The purpose of the main inline fuse before the secondary fuse block serves two purposes: 1: If the main lead going to the aux fuse block shorts out, it blows that fuse instead of burning the truck to the ground. 2: It's a double redundancy "failsafe" if you will. Say you've got offroad lights running off one of the fused terminals, and they overload the fuse, and for whatever reason, it doesn't pop like it's designed (Rare, but it happens), the fuse right at the battery blows, thus saving the truck from burning to the ground. Nicely done, although, a little criticism, I think you should have put an extended piece of sheet metal and moved the block out away from the firewall, just due to the way the hinge swings, it's going to be fairly close to those contacts with the hood down. I'm definitely going to take your idea though and tweak it a bit for my truck.

I take great offense at your assessment of us rednecks who like playing in the mud.

So this pretty much only applies to So-Cal Jeepers, and anyone willing to drive. HERE is a link to the original post. Page 6 is correct, because it has the most up-to-date address at Paddy O'Reilly's. Hope to see some fellow MJers there!

I have a set of Ironman's 4.0 motor mounts, and they are so overbuilt, it's incredible. They're very solid, the only complaint that some people might have, is how hard the poly bushings are, they do have vibration feedback that you don't get from a stock set of MMs, which in my opinion, is a good thing, since it allows for better feel of the motor's running condition. Misfires can be felt through the steering wheel on the older Renix era rigs. Another very nice thing about them being so stiff, is when you need power NOW, they don't flex at all, and send all the power to the ground, unlike the stock MMs that flex under demand for torque. I've had mine for almost two years now, put them through hell and back, and they still look brand new (once the mud is washed off that is.) 10/10 for build quality, lifespan, and definitely plan on putting a set on my new toy once the motor's done.

Hemet, Cali checking in!