echdaviem

I see have an NC tag on that. Where abouts are you? I'm into bikes as well and can weld and have a welder if you need help. I'm in the Raleigh area.

Sorry, posted the wrong photo

It's cool to know that there are a few of us here in the south east Raleigh area. I Drive my truck into cary almost every day. Red 89 SB. The blue one you saw may belong to a guy that works at the advance auto at 401 and ten ten rd. We should see if we can all get together someday just to hang out.

If it's only supposed to be open at cruising speeds, What is making it open at low RPM?

So I Disconnected the vacuum going to it and it runs much better! so now what? just leave the egr unhooked?

The EGR valve is opening and closing fine, the problem is that when it does open at 0-1/4 throttle, it bogs down the motor and tries to stall. If I just floor it, the effect is minimal. My question is, is it supposed to be opening that early and that often? Thanks for all the help, appreciate it!

Sorry forgot to mention, I have a SWB 4.0 AX15-231

So I've been having some running issues lately, mainly at 0-1/4 throttle. I was looking in the engine bay this afternoon and noticed that when I crack the throttle open the EGR valve opens also. I can feel the solenoid tripping therefore opening the valve. Is the EGR valve supposed to open and close that often? What conditions is it supposed to open and close? What is normal?

So yesterday I get into my truck to go home for lunch and my truck wouldn't start. I traced it down to a bad ignition coil, replaced it and it fired right up. I also changed the distributor cap and rotor because it was getting pretty bad. This morning it fired right up, but when I was going to go home for lunch again, it wouldn't start again. I checked everything I did and all looked good. I looked at the distributor cap again just to recheck everything and it was all good, put it back on and it fired right up again. This basically happened several times today, if it didn't start, I just remove the cap and put it back on and it starts. Once it's running it runs great with no issues at all. Anyone else have this issue? Do you think I just got a bad cap or something?

Looks like the chief might have a hidden winch bumper on the front!

I want a T-shirt, hoodie if its a zip up. a ball cap too if its available.

Well not much happening other than wearing down the tires so I got some new Kicks!! oh yeah!!

Got some new kicks!

So I may be delaying the lift on mu truck but I still need to put the 8.25. Will I be ok on drive shaft length going from a D35 to an 8.25?

wow Thanks so much for the quick reply! I'll be making it totally from scratch so I should be able to get the holes in the right spot. Thanks again!

I was wondering if I could get some measurements from someone who has an aftermarket track bar mount that doesn't use the Rod end type mount. I would like to build one for mine. Mainly looking for distance from Hole center to the frame. Thanks for all the Help!

:agree: The toilet paper thing worked really well for me. it will take a lot more TP than you think, so when you're about to give up cuz it hasn't come out yet, do it a few more times and it will come out.

Do I have to extend my drive shaft if i lift my truck to 5.5"? I have a short box 4.0 ax15 231 and 8.25 rear. Thanks for the info. Tried searching but I couldn't find a definite answer.

yeah the arms had washers filling the gap at the brackets so I don't think they were made for a WJ. I was thinking about selling them but what I'm going to do is install the arms and do a lift and with the rear arms build myself a set of long arms which is what I originally wanted to do.

I got these at Nines auto salvage in Wake Forest. The other pair of arms are still on the WJ. They were kind of skinny and i didn't know what I would do with them so I just left them there. In hind sight I should have grabbed them, you never know what I could have used them for.

So I was out the JY today looking for random stuff and I came across a WJ with a lift kit on it. Looks like some Rubicon Arms, OME shocks, JKS SB disconnects all for really cheap! so I'm really not sure what fits on my MJ but I can cut metal and weld pretty good so i figured it was a good deal no matter what. Has anyone ever used anything from a WJ? You guys think all this stuff will work on the MJ?

Do I have to run CV shaft?

So when I got my AX15 it came with and NP231 and I just noticed that it has an SYE installed on it. So my question is, do I need to change the angle of my axle to be able to use the SYE? I know I have to change my drive shaft, any one know where I can get one? I have a short bed 4.0 BA10/5 NP231 soon to be AX15. Thanks for the help!

Just as the title says, I need a bell housing for an AX15. Internal clutch slave. contact me if you got one. 4076971536

thats exactly what i was looking for. thanks! the bearing retainer on mine doesn't have that tube thing on it so it must be the internal slave. I guess i would have to change that if i wanted to go external correct?