Ibby

I pulled the master out of my '00 Cherokee to replace that silly hydraulic throwout bearing system in my '90 MJ. Direct fit, I imagine a 99 Cherokee is no different than a 00. They used the same tranny.

Castrol Super Clean kicks @$$. I don't know what it's like on rubber and electrical stuff though. I also like Marine Clean from POR 15. Works really well.

Yup they carry it. It's a POR-15 product, a really good degreaser. I like it better than brake cleaner as it doesn't leave a residue and it rinses cleanly away with water.

No problem, I read up on the use of it before hand and it helped me out a ton. On a similar note I use the Marine Clean these days in place of brake cleaner for cleaning just about anything. It's got a bit of a smell to it kind of like ammonia but it's not too bad. You also cut it with water up to 5:1. I have a bottle of it at 1:1 right now and it cleans better than varsol. Mix it with very hot water into a sprayer and you're set. The bottle of is expensive but when you mix it it turns out to be cheaper than brake cleaner in the long run.

NAPA carries the complete line of POR 15 stuff. I highly recommend you follow the steps to paint it on properly (using the Marine Clean and Metal Ready for prep). I found it a bit weird to strip off all the paint, then use the cleaner, rinse it off with water, wait for it to dry, use the metal prep, rinse it off with water, dry, then paint but that's exactly how you prep it. It'll turn a lovely looking sandblasted surface into a rusty mess, but that's what's needed for the POR 15 to stick. It'll peel off of unprepared metal. It's messy stuff to work with and it doesn't like to come off so don't get it on your skin. 2 coats works well, and wait a couple days between coats. It's thick stuff and needs time to dry. I stripped and painted my CJ tub and some other parts with it. Took a while but it's staying where it was put. Just a note it has no UV protection in it, so if it's going to be hit by sunlight it will degrade. It whitens and turns powdery and makes a big mess. I sprayed the CJ with olive drab Krylon when the POR 15 was tacky, it seems to be the best way to do it. If you wait til the POR 15 is dry to put a top coat on it won't stick as well. When you're painting with it pour it into one of those disposable Ziplock food containers. You'll be able to reopen the lid easily. If you do just use the can, use saran wrap between the lid and can or you'll never get it open again. I also found using a crappy set of cheap paint brushes the best way to put it on. It's really hard to clean out of the bristles so I just threw the brushes out when I was done for the day. One of them is still stuck inside the garbage can in the shop, it sticks that well. Be careful around any holes or threaded ares too. It's a PITA if it gets into a place that something needs to go into like a bolt hole. When I did my bumper with it I taped off the studs for the spare tire, but I didn't do anything with the mounting holes and wound up having to drill them out so the bolts would fit through them.

Depends on how you want to build something. Myself I'd have used a Ford HP pumpkin in that build, but if you want a Scout low pinion, why not? But that truck was an awesome piece of work. Rob did a ton of excellent mods to it. It's still going strong with the new owner. Have you ever seen the weld on bracket kit that RE sells for front D44 installs? (this one http://www.rubiconexpress.com/BuilderPa ... art=RE9968) Rob designed it from scratch. RE um, "borrowed" it.

I used a C-Rok reinforcement plate on my badly cracked XJ frame, then followed it up with a steering box brace. Worked extremely well. Here's a great writeup that prompted me to get it: http://www.jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp

Indeed. I have a kickass camera ;)

Careful with the fine print. That's audio power, if you use the PA feature to drive a speaker. That radio still only has 4 watts of transmit power, just like any other CB... http://www.rfwiz.com/UnidenPro510XL.htm

Not exactly. Non tuneable antennas come out of the box close to where they should be but they're pretuned to be on the middle of the roof of a full sized sedan. When you put one one something else, characteristics change. For the most part you can get away fine without tuning them, but after the hundred and some odd or so I've installed and tuned not one of them didn't see a performance increase from getting tuned properly. Keeping the connections clean is also a big factor. I've done several SWR tuning days for a few local clubs where I'm at mostly because I couldn't stand crappy sounding radios on the trail. :yes: It's a fun thing to do during a ramp day while everyone's waiting to get on the ramp or teeter totter. That Midland you have is a HAM unit. It's similar to set up but there's a few things that will be different. Different antenna for one. I wouldn't use a HAM on CB frequencies as it's not entirely legal, but CB isn't monitored very closely these days. You'll also need a license to run it. As for a DIY, I have a system sitting in the garage that I need to install into my MJ. I'm moving shortly but I can get a DIY done sometime this spring/summer.

Incorrect! ALL antennas need tuned, even if they are non adjustable. There are many considerations to take into account when installing a CB but the antenna is by far the greatest concern. A properly tuned antenna can get you around the world (yes, with a lowly CB) on a clear night if you're in the right spot. I can sit on the hill behind my house in Victoria BC and chat with places in Australia and Georgia USA when the conditions are right ("skip shooting" radio signals). First a good quality CB is required. Most on the market are. Pretty much any unit you get at a truck stop will be fine. Some are very simple while others are crammed with bells and whistles. I prefer the Galaxy 959 but it's likely a bit expensive for most folks. I'd also look for one that contains both an ANL (automatic noise limiter) which will reduce electrical noise like from your ignition system, and an NB (noise blanker) which also helps reduce unwanted noise. These two features are the most important I find. Anything else is gravy. Some radios have an automatic weather channel, built in power/SWR meters, modulation meter, among other goodies. Second the antenna is a big consideration. I first used a trunk mounted Radio Shack jobbie on my first car. I tuned it up and it worked pretty good but when I moved to my first Jeep I switched to a Firestik II and noticed a HUGE improvement. Placing it makes a difference. Obviously it should go as high and centered on a vehicle as possible. You'll have to decide what's best. For hood mounting on a Comanche I'd recommend a Larsen antenna mounted on a Firestik hood mount. It gives a clean looking antenna install and works very well. It's also pretty straighforward to run the coax cable through the engine bay to the radio this way. There are lots of other smaller considerations. Some folks will tell you that the coax cable from the radio to the antenna needs to be one wavelength long (about 18 feet or so) for proper transmission. This is absolute bunk. Keep the coax as short as needed between the radio and antenna. Use a good quality wire. I like RG-58 A/U but most will work well enough for a stock radio. If for some reason you wind up putting a large amp on the system (which I don't recommend) then something larger like RG 8 would be better. Tuning is the single most important thing you can do. A radio signal traveling from the radio to the antenna is similar to any electrical signal, but it's looking for something specific. Imagine it's a certain size, and prefers a certain size door to leave from. Tuning is adjusting the door to the size it needs to be. If the radio you have doesn't have a built in SWR meter, you can get them from Radio Shack or truck stops for $35(Cdn) or so. It goes between the radio and antenna, so you'll need a small length of coax with connectors on it to do the testing. Test in as large of a flat open area you can, away from buildings and power interference. Definitely do not test inside, your results will be a mess. Also when you test, keep the doors and such closed. Key the radio, look at the meter, get out, adjust the antenna, rinse repeat. It's a tedious process but needs done. Once you have your SWR to as close to 1:1 as you can get, you're done. What happens to an untuned radio? The signal out won't fit through an improperly sized door, so some of it turns around and goes back into the radio, which degrades the transmit microchip. It winds up getting ruined and causes crappy transmission like noted above. It also reduces the radio's power greatly. Obviously a tunable antenna is preferred over a non, but both need tuned. Tunable use either a screw at the top (Firestik II) that is moved up and down, or a set screw at the bottom (Wilson, Larsen types) and the antenna itself moves up and down (and possibly might need shortened). A non tuneable is either cut down to the length it needs to be, or a wound wire in it is pulled or cut (original Firestik) to reach the proper length. A standard complete install usually takes a couple hours. A single antenna is all you need. Duallys look cool, but will wind up ruining your radio over time. You can make them work, but the centers have to be about 9 feet apart. If you want a setup like that leave one as a dummy or better yet, wire it up proper but don't connect it and leave it as a spare. If you've got any questions, please feel free to ask. I've put many radio systems in all sorts of vehicles, and pretty much all kinds of Jeeps. I've been in the Canadian army for almost 20 years now as a tech doing this very thing, and I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

I had a 29 spline 8.25 in my 2000 XJ. I ran it with several different setups, but for the most part I had 35" Krawlers on it with 4:56 gears and a full Detroit locker. I pounded the piss out of that thing and it never gave me any hassle. The shafts are only a hair thinner than a D44. I'd get one again in a heartbeat if the price was right and I actually needed one.

You can change from the GM style keys (90 and earlier) to Chrysler double sided keys (91+) easily. The cylinders are compatible. I just did this change last weekend not out of choice but because the local junker only had the newer version of Cherokees in the yard to pick from. They Chrysler keys are longer and thicker, harder to break. The only drawback is the ring end of the key is that old wide Chrysler Y end. I ground them down to the GM size so it wouldn't feel like a rock in my pocket. On a side note, keep the keys cool while you grind. First one I did quick and hamfisted and it snapped due to getting too hot.

The long side shaft on a non disco D30 should just slide right out. If you do have a bend in the housing it can be very difficult. I've had to use a 3 jaw puller to get shafts out of a slightly bent housing before.

I know where to get them up here in Canada. I do believe I saw the same thing in a Fred Meyer superstore in Oregon last summer. I'm surprised that the regular parts places don't carry them. They're usually right with the fuses.

I just ordered a set of Precision rebuilt Mustang injectors and put them in a couple weeks ago. The price was awesome and the performance gain was noticeable. It's not like you just bolted on a supercharger but there is a noticeable increase in acceleration and mileage. The old injectors were toast. They were pretty filthy, a couple were badly clogged and one was stuck open. Several leaked as well. I didn't even have to modify any sensors which was a plus. I think you'd be happy with a set of them.

Don't know the size exactly, but the head is a 15mm. The top bolt is slightly shorter than the bottom one.

No, the yoke has to come off before the housing is removed to get the shaft out.

I think you'll find that yoke is bolted to the output shaft. So until you get the driveshaft off the yoke, you can't unbolt the yoke itself. A neat little trick I use for events like this is to drill out the threads in the yoke with a drill bit the same diameter as the bolts that go in. Then using the original straps, put grade 8 bolts right through the yoke with nuts on the back side. There's plenty of room, just measure for the length of bolt you'll need, go to the local hardware store and you're set. It also makes life easier if you ruin a ujoint on the trail and it snaps a bolt off in the yoke. With this mod you can just push the old bolt out of the yoke, throw a new ujoint and bolt/strap and you're on your way.

I use a ball joint press for most bushings. Works well, comes with large enough cup sizes for pretty much any Jeep bushing.

I had my MJ up on the hoist this weekend to do a little work and add some undercoating. I will be adding a full sized spare to the carrier so I took the donut spare off to measure if a full size will fit. There's plenty of space. The wire and winch on my truck are in very good shape and I have no doubts they will hold a full sized spare easily, but I'd really like to have the added security of some secondary device to hold it in. At the same time I don't want something too obstructive or hard to remove should I need to remove use the spare. I noticed there's scads of room to fab up a metal strap basket thing to hold the tire. In the next month or so I'll be rigging something up to do just this. A couple of different ideas have come to mind, the easiest involving using the x frame rails as mounts. I'll likely weld up two slots to the front X rails for a pair of flat steel tabs to insert into, with two holes drilled into the rear portion of the x with nuts welded over them to accomodate a large screw in butterfly bolt. The actual "basket" will just be flat steel that will be bent to the size of the tire. It'll slide into the tabs and be held in with the butterfly bolts. We use a similar setup to hold the spare tires on some of the army trucks we have here in Canada. Simple to make and easy to access when you need it.

I've done that. I originally used a Rusty's air tube on my XJ, but I had to change things around in the engine compartment to fit a York compressor. I installed a diesel XJ battery tray to move the battery to the other side and when I did the air tube/filter had no room. So I measured out the diameter of the stock rubber tube, went to the local parts store and got a muffler adapter sleeve the same size, cut it down to about 3 inches, used a shorty Powermax filter (also an inverted cone) and lived happily ever after. Had I done that before, the $2 for the muffler adapter would have saved a few bucks over the Rusty's tube.

They were made in France, a long time ago. Probably why they were hard to find. I just took mine out and refurbed them, they hadn't worked since I bought the MJ and I figured the bulbs were burnt out. Turns out I didn't bother checking the fuse and that's all it was. They did require a little cleaning, the roller wheel on each was pretty corroded. A good quick easy fix for grungy electrical connections is a simple pencil eraser. Works great. I even rebuilt the tabs that the previous owner had broken off. It sure is nice to have light in the cab these days. I didn't know they rocked into other positions either, that was a neat discovery.

Thanks, I figured those were the ones. Just wanted to make sure. I've discovered that my head gasket isn't damaged, it's fuel getting into the oil pan causing my problems. These look like they'll solve that as well as give me some better mileage at the same time. Thanks for the info, it's much appreciated. Sorry for straying from the original post.

What injectors did you use? I'm trying to find a replacement set for my 90 MJ. The jobber here wants close to $100 each for some OEM style ones. Did you change anything else when you put the new injectors in to get such an increase in mileage?