87Warrior

I'll let you know at the end of this week. I placed an order for the 2 front and 2 rear pans as well as the outter rockers last night from C2C. Pics will be posted for those interested in their products.

For further engine discussion, see my topic in the Tech Forum: Help me build a "Four O+" Not much exciting has happened to the truck this week. Got all of the busted bolts out of the frame and cleaned up the threads with a tap. Finished applying POR15 to all of the spring mounts and control arm mounts. Also coated the inside frame rail with the POR15. In studying the construction of these trucks, it is easy to understand why the frame liked to rot away. Next step will be blasting the front frame rails and rear frame rails with hot high pressure soap/water, soaking with Marine Clean, treating with Metal Ready then using a 3M Rust Fighter-I Application Wand to shoot POR15 in the inaccessible frame. Visited with the body shop guy who strongly suggested I NOT use undercoating on the outside of the truck. He says with the POR15, Tie-Coat primer, and Chassis coat there will be absolutely no chance of chipping the paint. I asked about sound deadening and he said it would be OK to spray it over the inside sheet metal after it was treated with POR. Upon his direction I also placed an order for new outer rocks and floor pans for the truck. He wants the truck in his shop at the first of April to start body work :banana:

I loved mine so much when driving it that I decided to tear it as far apart as possible and make it better... :nuts:

If you are only interested in a basic rebuild, visit your local machine shop and see what kind of shape your block is in. Once you know what is needing replaced, visit your local Jeep parts department for all parts, gaskets and seals. They can provide you with over sized pistons if need. Have the shop assemble the short block and balance. This is how I rebuilt my TJ 4.0 and have put 90K miles on it with out a problem.

Disappointing, yet not surprising. It has seemed very clear that they don't give two-hoots about the MJ crowd with the bumper fiasco. Unfortunate since these trucks are gaining in popularity and they built/sold a quality product. Does anybody have detailed images of the LWB sliders? I would like detailed images of the mounts. I may be able to con a buddy into making a set.

Subscribing to follow this thread. I will buy a set of LWB sliders.

Kind of in the same boat: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28857 At very least, you might want to research cams. When I simply rebuilt my Rubi's 4.0, I was disappointed I did not try to squeeze more power out of it.

Pull the cluster and check the bulb. Also clean the plugs. If you turn the key to "on" three times the light should start to flash. The flashing sequence will actually tell you what codes the PCM has stored.

You'd better have arms that put Popeye to same :rotf: I think its been done by a few folks around here, but I can't think of any names. I think you could save some sanding time by using the 'Professional' grade spray cans. But they are $6-8 a can and one can would probably be enough for one panel. It would add up very fast. I would suggest using a respirator as well, it is powerful stuff. If you want to do the entire truck, I think you should first bug bomb the yard for a few days before hand. Then create a make shift paint booth to keep crap from landing on the wet paint. Con a buddy into helping you sand.

Although I haven't been following your build real close, last I saw you were actually trying to make it look like an MJ (bed sides). Can't complain about that!

So close! Congrats man. And you know we expect a video of its maiden voyage, right? :yes: :typing:

I have two dented up doors off my donor (99XJ) you could get all of the panels and electronics from. If you get those 2 door switches I will basically give you the doors since I have had zero luck finding the 2 door switch. They are located near Milford Lake.

Osage orange, hedge/hedge apple, Maclura pomifera is a native pasture tree here in the Midwest. Much like Honeylocust. It has either 3/4" sharp as snot thorns or grapefruit sized green/yellow fruit. The wood is hard and will dull a chain fast. It is also rot resistant so it is used as wood fence post for barbed wire fence construction. It does like to spark so not many like it as firewood.

The 2 piece slider in my 92 is identical to yours. My truck was not modified in anyway when I bought it so I suspect it is factory. I have only seen this window used in late model MJs. Maybe Chrysler found another window manufacturer? I don't know. Edit: Hedge (osage orange) FTW! It has the highest heat output. Look it up :) What kind of locust is that?

I, like so many others, really enjoy following your build. I can't believe it took this long to be an MJOTM. Congratulations. :clapping:

Holy Cow! That thing would make this truck a beast. But a little more than I want to do :rotf: Very good, insightful, thought provoking information here. From my understanding, the OBDII set up responds very well to an aggressive cam on an otherwise stock 4.0L. I would prefer to keep the injection system stock, but I know that may not be the case with a modified 4.0 and would upgrade to an adjustable regulator or injectors as necessary, once she is running. Perhaps at that time a tune may be necessary to maintain drive-ability. I spent many more hours this evening studying stroker builds and I am still not sold that a well built stroker can run on 87. I did a lot of number crunching as well this evening. Here is what I came up with: - Comp Cam 68-321-4 Camshaft - Stock dished piston 0.030" over - Block decked 0.010" - 0.043" Compressed headgasket In comparision to a stock 4.0L (numbers crunched by me) Static Compression Ratio: 8.79:1 Dynamic Compression Ratio: 7.21:1 Quench: 0.0725" The piston choice will still effect the compression ratios. Most aftermarket pistons have more dish volume, thus reducing the CR's. Further thoughts and comments? Thanks :thumbsup:

I paid $150 for the front doors, striker pins, weather stripping, wiring plugs, front fenders, header panel and headlight harness from a 98 XJ that was being parted out on CL. I would have a hard time coughing up more than $50 for incomplete doors.

Terra - Thank you for the information. I am not sure I want to build a motor that requires reflashing the PCM. But I will certainly keep your suggestions in my mind. This evening I have been running a few desktop calculation with varying pistons and camshafts. I am beginning to better understand the correlation of all the numbers and what they do. I do have a question about the cams for sale. It seems that most of them are only posted for up to a '97 4.0 block. I will be using a '99 block. I thought all 4.0L cams would interchange. Will any 4.0L camshaft work in the '99 block?

:rotf: :rotfl2: :doh:

That was my favorite parts about living/working in the high country. Take the skis to work with you and have a long lunch on the slopes or call in sick when "powder" was on the 5am report. :drool:

The little ski area in Weston, Mo has crook employees who steal credit card numbers. Its very disappointing because I haven't made it back to CO for 2 years now for skiing. Having major withdrawls. Broke my 22 consecutive years on the slopes.

I will be starting out with a 99XJ motor with OBDii. See my build for more information. :D What the motor becomes will be the direct result of this thread. Does anybody have cam recommendations? I have been studying the specs of several cams out there. The problem is, while I understand the numbers regarding lift/duration/etc I do not know how the subtle differences will affect the engines performance. Comp Cams categorizes their 4.0 cams for their areas of improvement. I *think* for my application a slight improvment down low and a great mid range would be right for a DD. I suspect the truck will be turning 2,300rpm at 70mph. I will bore it .030 over and stick new pistons in it for piece of mind. Selecting a piston seems like quite a chore with all of the options out there. I am looking at maintaining a close to stock dish volume. Although, I could drop it a little and deck the block to drop the quench distance to prevent detention. This would also impact the type of cam that goes in it. Looks like I might need to run a few DCR calculations and are what happens. Gosh I would love to pick up that aluminum Hesco head, but they are high dollar! I am not really aiming for a particular exhaust note. With these small improvements combined with the XJs larger exhaust pipe, it should sound great.

This thread stems out of my build page, to the technical forum so I can get the help of CC. Objective: I am looking for help in creating a build sheet/list for a modified 4.0L. This motor will be based upon a 99 XJ block and will be going into my Comanche, which will be a daily driver turning 4.10's and a 30/31" tire. Goal: I want to pull more power out of the motor yet maintain fantastic drive-ability and reliability without the need for premium fuel. The motor will be getting a thorough going through and rebuilt by the same shop who simply rebuilt my rubi's 4.0 in '03. I am thinking work along the lines of bearings and seals/gaskets, cam, pistons, porting, etc. Possibly a header as well. At this point, I am not sold on a stroker. It seems in order to build a stroker to be as reliable as a stock 4.0, it is not cheap ($2,500K in parts with no guarantee it will run on 87) even with the DCR between 6-8:1. I call on you to help me assemble a build sheet for the Comanche's new heart :yes: Build Sheet (updated as decisions are made) Block Crankshaft: Stock Connecting Rods: Stock Pistons: Oil Pump: Mopar High Performance Gasket Set: Timing Set: Head Head Gasket: Mopar/Victor 0.043" Camshaft: COMP Cam 68-231-4 Lifters: Valve Springs: Mopar High Performance P5249464 - Retainers: Mopar High Performance P4452032 - Locks: Mopar High Performance P4529218 Rocker Arms: Head Bolts: Additional Injectors: Header: Head Porting Balancing Valve Job I don't anticipate the need to specify bearings and seals, as I will leave that to the builder.

Thank you 8) I keep waiting for your truck to be on the road! Since I am not under any major time constraint with this truck, I just figured 'why not' since it was already going to be torn down for rust removal. I am still somewhat undecided what I want to do with the motor. At 150K miles on it, I certainly want to put gaskets and seals in it. But if I am that far I should rebuild it. Then I question if it should be stroked. Do I really want to run premium fuel in a Jeep? So I am looking for a little help in creating a build sheet/list for a modified 4.0L. The motor will be based upon a 99 XJ block, which will be a daily driver turning 4.10's and a 30/31" tire. I want to pull more power out of the motor yet maintain fantastic drive-ability and reliability without the need for premium fuel. (I believe this eliminates a stroker) The motor will be getting a thorough going through and rebuilt by the same shop who simply rebuilt my rubi's 4.0 in '03. I am thinking work along the lines of bearings and seals/gaskets, cam, pistons, porting, etc. Possibly a header as well.

FORWARD PROGRESS This weekend I made the first permanent forward steps on the truck. I coated the media blasted frame, floor that won't be replaced, and inner fender wells with POR15. Rear frame rail: Cross member: Floors and under the cab: Inner fender well: Front end: I used less than a quart of POR15 and brushed it on with some of those cheap foam brushes. Seemed to work very well. Once new floors are installed they will be PORed. Then I will apply their Tie-Coat primer followed by undercoating.