Oizarod115

this is the only image i can find of it on google. here you can see the linkage plate i talked about, loose from its mounting bolts at the t-case and the linkage still attached to it.

that is the part i was trying to explain earlier. the AX15 uses a completely different mount on the tranny side. its a plate the bolts back on the t-case bolts and wraps around the side of the tranny with that mounting hole. i wish someone had pics they could post

BRILLIANT! i'll be making one of those this weekend! my setup is far to... well, i can't say that here. lets say "presidential solution" thanks for the link jimmy!

the pinion angle needs to be the same as the angle on the transmission. stock doesn't matter, just find the angle of your tranny output and put the pinion at the same angle. unless you have a DC rear drive-shaft you don't want the pinion to be pointing up. it needs to be about flat because your t-case is about flat (unless you have a crossmember drop) if you're having d-shaft troubles with the truck in your avatar, you may need a TJ front yoke in order to get the correct angle without maxing out the u-joint

i don't see the linkage bracket on that picture you linked. you're looking for the plate that mounts with two of the transfer-case stud/nuts and has the bushing for the pivot shaft to ride in? it wouldn't fit in my truck either but i chocked it up to the fact that my AX is a YJ model. i rigged somethign up. maybe someone with first-hand XJ ax15 experience can help

what is WITH this lately? WTF guys? ANOTHER park light socket failure!? someone is out there vandalizing these this week i swear! (not griping at the O.P.) looks like a park-light socket problem, sim-ting mine did when they failed. should cost about 10 bucks at the auto parts store from the help! section, i think it's a ford socket.

get new ones in the HELP! section, its a ford socket, can be found in any auto parts store (not even behind the counter) just cut yours out, carry it in, match it up, wire the new ones in. should cost less than 20 bucks, (I'm thinkin like 10 or so max) i'm thinking somebody needs to do a DIY write-up on this including the help! card part number.

check the quality of the fluid, it should be a clear-ish red. if the fluid is dark brown, black, thick, or smells like burnt up crayons, you might wanna think about a transmission flush

re-installed the tailpipe, (a little longer this time so it won't hit on the shackle again!) replaced the BLEEDING oil filter adapter o-rings (did yuo know the ford FL1A filters fit!? its HUGE) and removed some funk off the side of the truck / washed the engine. next up, heater core.

we might need a picture or some more description, i can't visualize what you're doing/having trouble with

i wouldn't worry about the $$ side of things, a new heater core is ~40 bucks... i'd think you can justify having heat rather than wasting half a day getting soaked in the freezing cold weather. that or take the 40 bucks, buy 3 cases of beer and just drink and drive :dunce: ... at least you'll be warm. :cheers: (disclaimer: i am KIDDING)

:dunno: i don't do a whole lot with them, but i've never really had a problem. they (paypal) also assisted me in getting money back that i had sent as a deposit on an item here on comancheclub when the other party wouldn't refund it. sure it took a while, but you can't take money someone's already spent. so far i've had a good experience with paypal and ebay. and especially their media sub-page, half.com thats where a majority of students buy their textbooks, they also do games, dvds, cds. had good luck there too.

good point, this fuse also does the dash illumination, so all the orange wires (not ALL of them, but alot of them) in the dash are tied in with it (radio illumination, switch illum., cigg-lighter-lamp)

replacement NEW sockets can be found in the HELP! section at any auto parts store, i think it's a ford socket, but it's there. just cut yours out and wire this one in (3 wires, no big deal) i did both of mine a few years back after they quit working. maybe take the lens in with you to be sure you get the right thing, but it is there.

i've got a set of those for sale actually in the classifieds.

not to mention the passenger side UCA's proximity to the starter.

i was thinking more about the control arms that would be getting alot closer to the pan, last time i checked theres not a whole lot of room under there with a 4.0L

yeah, TDI, turbo diesel

yeah, headlights aren't on the fuse, just taillamps, park lamps, and dash. i think its the taillight fuse or prk lamps, should be a 10 amp regular push in fuse

if the dash-lights don't work that most likely means your taillights don't work either, check the taillamp fuse up above the clutch pedal in the fuse box under the dash. while you're at it check all the fuses and check for corrosion or brake/clutch fluid leaking onto the box.

oh so you can't re-calibrate them, you can just check the calibration. gotcha.

also, you can loosen the remainder of the main-caps, (not much, just break them loose) and spin it over while tapping on the seal. Thats what got mine out. (she was STUCK)

Have you thought about using the Comanche main leafs and leafes from a Cherokee for the rest of the pack? Stock Cherokee leaf springs are pretty much flat with the weight of the vehicle on them, and they are easy to find. i think you're over-thinking it a bit beaterjeep... if we can run spring over (increasing likely-hood of spring wrap) and short blocks, and not have an axle-wrap problem... i highly doubt you're going to have a problem from SUA with a short 1-2" block. then get explorer 2wd springs, which should lower a couple inches, or waggy or whatever you want, a cherokee rear-shackle will lower a tiny bit. i mean, you can't go much more than 3" up front without worrying about the oil pan anyways right?

calibrating? tell us more oh wise one.

woahhhh nelly. careful where you tread over there in volvo-land. you don't want a t6 volvo motor, or the whiteblock 6's at all. the 5 cyl is a VERY good motor, especially the low pressure 2.3 turbo, but all of the aluminum volvo motors start to burn at 150+ and not much at all you can do to fix it.