TrailReadyMJ

I can keep an eye out on some for cheap if you're not in a hurry, no guarantees though. That listing for $50 is really not bad for a rebuild and guaranteed set (assuming he is a good seller and stands by his word!). Then there's always the junkyard. I haven't heard about the neon injectors. Just a pure guess, but maybe the 703s are the ones used in the turbod' SRT neons? :dunno:

Yep... I had looked in my FSM, where it listed a clutch switch in the wiring diagrams. However after looking at it, turns out it was for cruise control. :doh: X2 on the switch location. The key part is completely separate from the electrical, connected by rods.

Have you looked at the clutch safety switch at the pedal? The solenoid is built onto the starter. This is what the "little wire" attaches to. If you can short the little wire on the starter and get it to work, your problem is not the solinoid. It's a pretty simple circuit. Goes from the Ignition switch start feed, through the clutch switch (or NSS for autos) to the solenoid. These ignition switches are pretty reliable, so my guess is you have a bad clutch switch. If you have a multimeter, you can test the switch to make sure it makes contact with the pedal depressed. At a temporary test you can also short the wires to the switch, but DON'T leave it this way... just asking for trouble! I was working on a BMW one time and the owner had installed a remote start system and bypassed the clutch switch. Well, I parked it in gear, and as I was working on the car (up under the dash) it suddenly started and lurched forward into another car! The owner had failed to inform us of this modification beforehand, so it was considered his fault. Fortunately I was fine, other than about having a heart attack! If it hadn't been parked about a foot behind another car, as you can imagine, it could have been much worse!

Yeah it's not bad. As said, just make sure they have new O-rings and you are careful not to damage the rings during installation. If one catches on the edge of the ports it can easily cut them. May not hurt to pick up a few extra rings as well, just in case. You should be able to find them at any parts store and they are cheap. Also, just FYI those injectors are the same as a 19lb ford 5.0 (and 4.6 2v) injector (probably what they actually are). In other words, you can probably find them even cheaper since there are tons of them out there, and many stang owners swap them for larger injectors during modding. I know I have a set from my old stang waiting on me to get around to installing them on the MJ :D

:eek: Haven't seen that on a 8.25 yet! But I guess technically this is possible with any axle that uses plugs to mount the tubes. I know 8.8s are good for this as well, so welding the tubes was the first thing I did.

I had a 29 spline 8.25 in my old XJ with welded spiders (trail rig only) and that thing took a beating on 33s. They also have slowly growing aftermarket support, and can now be geared as low as 4.88. The housings are also real strong, and have 3" axle tubes (for comparison a D44 is 2.76"). I will add that if you play in the rocks with one (doesn't sound like you will based on your location?), you may want to shave the lip on the bottom some. IIRC you can take about 3/8" off without weakening the case. Doesn't sound like much, but I hit mine a lot less once I did this. Also, the only reason I didn't swap the 8.25 to my MJ is because of the welded spiders. I needed a more road friendly setup, especially now that it's serving DD duty, and got a great price on my 8.8. Speaking of, if you can get a 8.8 for around the same price, it's a great swap and gives you disc brakes and 31 spline axles if from a 96+ explorer. Unless you get an MJ axle, NO axle will be a direct bolt in. You will need to cut off the old perches, adjust the pinion angle, and weld new perches on. If going SOA, you will also need to weld in some shock mounts. If SUA, you will need to drill the plates for the larger u-bolts. Either way, you should retain the u-bolts and plates from the axle you pull. It's also always a good idea to use new u-bolts anytime you remove them.

:agree: You never know what you'll run into with a 22 year old truck. All I can suggest is some common stuff, and a couple things I've ran into over the years: -Change ALL fluids and filters (including trans, diff, coolant, air filter, fuel filter) Don't overlook steering and brake fluid too ("forgotten fluids"). -Since it's 2wd, repacking (or replacing if needed) the front wheel bearings is never a bad idea. -Check all standard wear items. TRE's (including track bar), U-joints, Belt, Brake Pads, bearings, ball joints, bushings, shocks, etc... etc... -It also would be good to check the steering box and track bar mount mounting bolts to make sure they are tight. I have ran into many that have loosened up over time (gotta love that uni-body!). If the steering box is loose, you may also want to check the aluminum spacer, between the box and frame, to make sure it's not cracked.

IMO, having to drill the bracket a bit larger can actually be a good thing in some cases. This would depend on the condition of your bracket, but I've seen, and experienced, several of them wallowing out over time. Mine was this way, and drilling it to 7/16" was just enough to fix the problem. I built my trackbar, so using the correct bushing was easy ;) I will also add, if you have the option to get or make a capture nut (like the stock one) it makes life much easier during installation!

The shafts will work fine, however there is a major difference in the seals. The CAD axle seals at the disconnect housing, where the one piece seals at the diff (like the driver side). However they do make a kit just for this. For example http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_68 Or you can swap in a non-disco D30 from a newer Jeep, or any XJ with the 242 T-case. Some like the disco housing for the stronger UCA mount, but this is what I did and I haven't had any issues with it. I also plan to 3 link it as some point, so it will probably not be used anyway. Also, the newer D30s came with the larger U-joints in the shafts, so an upgrade isn't as necessary. I have broken a couple of the small joint shafts, but actually stripped my ring gear with the larger ones! (see build thread for the story, link in sig)

Unplugging the TCU will not have any effect on the engine. I have made a electronic shifter for mine (like a autostick), and when enabled it bypasses the TCU completely. If your TPS is bad, it can effect not only the trans, but the idle speed as well. The TPS sends signal to both the ECU and TCU. If you look up a TPS for a manual trans, it has fewer wires and only feeds the ECU. There is a link on this page about 1/3 of the way down for Renix TPS adjustment (and a BUNCH of other stuff too!) http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm

I started out with Rusty's on my old XJ, and the only parts I have left are the coils. Granted this was about 6+ years ago, and their quality may have improved since then, but most of the kit didn't make it 2 years. After about a year the LCAs started clunking real bad and I had to weld them solid (were adjustable but no flex joints like they have now). After a couple years, the welds on the trackbar mount started to break (I had heard the stories, so I was keeping a look out... good thing too!) I only had their front end components, so I can't speak for their leaf packs. The only thing I am still running are the Coils, and LCA's...after I welded them! I will note that I love the coils! I have the 4.5" XJ coils with 1.5" spacers and drop brackets and it rides and flexes great! They have held up to tons of abuse over 6 years and 2 Jeeps, and are still in great shape with no sagging, etc... That is however the only part folks seem to like, as I have heard many say the same thing. If you want to piece a kit together, I can recommend the coils, but only if they are still the same as the old ones. As far as any of the other components, I know I'll be staying away!

This sounds to me like the infamous passenger kick panel connection. For some reason Jeep installed a spring in the antenna connection behind the kick panel. Over time this connection works loose and you lose your FM. Just remove the kick panel, take the connector apart (if it's not already), remove the spring, hook it back up and tape it so it doesn't come apart again. Speaking of common Jeep audio issues, I'll also mention this one. If you have a 97+ XJ and your front door speakers start cutting out, it is probably the wire running into the door, not the speaker(s). They had a problem where this wire was a bit too short and would end up breaking over time. You will probably have problems with the drivers side first (for obvious reasons). To fix this you need to run a new wire to the kick panel, or all the way to the radio. I installed car audio at a specialty shop for about 8 years, and had to fix both of these issues all the time! With that said, I may have a good stock radio/tape lying around. I'll check for you if interested. I wouldn't need anything for it other than shipping costs.

Oh, ok. It was early and I didn't put the names of your Jeeps together :doh: . I was thinking the 4.10s were going in your MJ. 4.10s will be perfect with the 31s :thumbsup: Should be a great combo for the inexperienced (street) driver! A friend of mine never wanted to lift his XJ because he didn't want to mess up the ride and handling (he had a rural mail route). I finally talked him into a 3" lift and 31s, and he came back a week later commenting on how it was even better than stock! Of course his suspension was badly worn to begin with.

If I was going to lower an MJ, I would look at replacing a couple of the MJ leaves with XJ leaves. The XJ packs are flatter and about the same rate, so you should be able to drop it without effecting the ride. Plus XJ packs should be a dime a dozen in the junkyard, where waggys are getting a bit harder to find.

The reason SOA shortens spring life is because you are more likely to have axle wrap than with SUA. With that said, the extra leaf in the waggy pack would help prevent this. Same applies to running a flatter spring, it makes it easier to have axle wrap. But at the same time a flatter spring is capable of more flex (assuming the shackle angle is correct, ~45*), so you just need to find the sweet spot to fit your needs. Axle wrap causes premature wear on the springs due to the twisting, and will eventually turn them into an "S" shape. SOA increases this effect since you are increasing leverage, think of it like using a longer wrench on a tight bolt. This is the primary cause for premature wear on a leaf pack, even in stock vehicles. Of course you can add a traction bar to eliminate wrap, and not run into this issue.

Ah, that makes sense then. I hope the 4.10s are low enough for you, I wouldn't mind going 4.88s myself, because there are a lot of hills here. The 4.56s aren't bad at all, close to stock, but you also have to factor in the extra rolling resistance of the larger tires. A little lower would be nice at times. Anything will be better than stock though, I had to drive mine for about a week on 35s and 3.55s before my gears came in and it was very sluggish. After the regear it was night and day! Very good point! That's the sensor that will have the most effect on millage :doh: .

What gears are you running? I get about 16-18 mixed and 20+ highway with 35" swampers and 4.56 gears. My speedo reads about 2 MPH fast at 30 (checked by radar station), but I have calculated MPGs by GPS. I am mainly wondering if it may have to do with the 93' HO engine I put in, even though it's still running Renix injection. I couldn't fairly compare it to what the old motor got because it ran awful, and got 14 at best. I am also usually pretty light on the skinny pedal, and that always helps. I also want to add, for those with incorrect speedos, you can simply swap out the gear to get it close. I haven't seen a chart on here yet, there may be one, but I know there's one on naxja or found by google. Last I checked on one it was around $30 from the local dealer (cheaper than a speeding ticket if yours reads low!).

My MJ and my old XJ both had 235s on them when I bought them, and I have worked on many stockers with 235s. I fully agree they didn't come with anything bigger than a 225 from the factory, just look at the door sticker, but it seems many folks opt for 235s when replacing them. Maybe it's just because that is a very common size, cheap, and easily found at any tire shop :dunno: As far as the rubbing, if you encounter issues, just adjust your steering stops on the knuckles so they can't rub. It will be a minimal amount, and better to lose a tiny bit of turning radius that eat your tires up on the LCAs. Another option for the rubbing would be to run WJ LCAs. They are bent to accommodate larger tires and boxed for strength. They are pretty much a direct stock replacement, but some grinding on the bushing sleeve may be necessary. However this is probably not worth the effort unless you really need that extra little bit of turning radius.

If you read through my posts, you'll see that I'm actually running a dana 35 locker in my D30. Well, I have to say this thing has held up great! Almost too great... it managed to survive/cause this: The sad part is I wasn't even having fun when it happened. I was pulling a rather large storage building, in reverse through gravel, when the tires hit a spot of mud, slipped and spun, grabbed, then BOOM! The locker and axles are fine, but the R&P are toast. I figured if I hadn't been pulling backwards, it wouldn't have happened. It was a LOT of stress on the coast side of the gear, not to mention the added weight on the front from the building (chain ran from bottom of building up to my bumper). Now I need some HP30 4.56s!

Well I haven't posted in a while, so I figured I'd update... I left off with some major holes in my rockers. Knowing this wouldn't pass inspection, or begin to hold up to trail abuse, I decided to replace them with box tubing like I had done in my old XJ. These didn't exactly turn out like I wanted, mainly due to lack of material and funds at the time. I needed an inspection, so I welded these in to where I can go back and do it how I really want to, but it will be plenty strong in the meantime. I didn't have enough tube to run the full length, so I wasn't able to protect the bedsides yet. My camera was down during the build, but here is the "finished" product: The ol' 4.0 was finally starting to kick the bucket, so it was time for a fix. I had a 4.0 in my XJ that ran great, so I just decided to swap it over. I wanted to build a stroker with it, but time wouldn't allow that yet, so I just cleaned it up, replaced seals, and painted it. I had a can of high temp aluminum lying around and figured it would look decent, and allow for easy leak detection. This motor has quite a stoy behind it. It was originally bought by a friend of mine after he blew his motor. We got it installed in his XJ and not a month later he started having trans and t-case problems. He ended up buying another Jeep, and I ended up with his to use for parts. I ended up swapping the motor into my old XJ where it lived happily for about a year, and only about 2-3K miles. So now I have it in my MJ, and this is the fourth Jeep it's been in with less than 100K miles on it! '93 4.0 HO converted to Renix. The old: Out with the old: In with the new!: Eventually I will upgrade the intake, exhaust, etc.. but it's been running great for about 8 months now! (wow, it doesn't seem like it's been that long!)

Is the wire in the 2nd pic attached to the hood? If so it's for a pull out under hood light. These break often, due to the mechanism breaking in the retractable light. Cool idea, bad design.

I am pretty sure the "new cut" is for the HP front IFS setup used in 97+ F150s etc..

If you got the full timkin install kit, it's doubtful you will need extra shims, can't hurt though. I haven't dealt with the MJ D20, but it was the HD axle option at the time. I'm not sure, but it mat have the same bearings and seals as a CJ D20 of the same year? I know CJs used 2 piece shafts where MJs are 1 piece, so they are a bit different, but it may give you something else to compare to. That works great for most things, but they never put the D20 in an XJ.

I understand "power," but why the hell did they label the "comfort" part? haha I assume I'm in comfort mode if the light is off, right? I pushed the power button once and the light came on, but I turned it off in fear this 20 year old beast would blow up! :yes: Yeah, the light on is the power setting, and the one you will want to use. Don't worry about it blowing up, this is actually the "normal" setting. Haha, yeah the "comfort" setting was a poor attempt to get smoother shifts for a more "family friendly" ride. It attempts to do so by lowering the shift points and downshifting less often. This was actually pretty common among late 80s to early 90s import vehicles, especially Toyotas.... it basically IS a Toyota transmission after all.

I agree to check the TV cable, especially since it's so easy to adjust. Another question as far as your shifting problems are concerned... is the power/comfort switch set to comfort? In this mode they will shift early, not downshift properly, and burn up a bunch of fuel in the meantime. Jeep got rid of the switch, and permanently wired the AW4 into power mode in later models due to this.