TrailReadyMJ

Well, you will get more answers in the tech section, but here is my input.... You really have a few choices on how to go about this. 1. As mentioned, swap absolutely everything from the TJ. Make sure you get everything from the donor TJ you need or the little things may nickle and dime you to death. 2. Run the HO head and Renix manifold. Technically there is a port matching issue on the intake manifold, so many frown on this route. The difference is not tooo drastic, and I am currently running this setup until I can do option 3. I was going to change it ASAP, however I keep putting it off because it runs good and gets decent mileage. It's actually at the very bottom of my "project list". 3. Run the HO manifold, TB, fuel rail, and injectors. The HO TB will need to be modified for the renix TPS, but this can and has been done. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/renix-ho-tps-307608/. There are better write-ups on this, but this was the first thing that popped up when searching. I plan to go this route eventually by using the 99+ intake. The main reason I opted for #2-3 is simply because I don't like Chrysler electrical, and am partial to the ol' renix stuff... opinions vary :D Also, I didn't have a full donor for the swap, just the block and head. IMPORTANT NOTE! If you swap in a HO engine, but opt to keep the Renix injection, you MUST use the Renix flywheel/flex-plate!!! Otherwise the CPS will give false readings and it won't start. Also, the HO does have a spot for the knock sensor, and it's already threaded (at least mine was, 93' block) so no problem there. The temp sensor for the fan moves to the T-stat housing instead of next to the knock sensor.

I am not suggesting you do it because mvusse has a valid point, but I run an auto locker in front (lock right) and haven't had any issues running in snow. Just did it today in fact! You just have to take your time around turns and not gas it, but of course you shouldn't be doing that in snow anyway. I even had a plow on it last year to clear some driveways and the locker never caused issues. Driving with lockers in snow is like anything else, once you get a feel for it and what's gonna happen under different conditions, you get used to it. Empty parking lots are your friend when learning, just don't go crazy enough to get the law involved! As far as running 35s on a stock front axle, I do it too. I also run the shafts with the larger joints, have a front locker, and haven't had any issues except for when I was doing something i wasn't supposed to (stripped gears pulling large storage shed, more detailed story in my build thread, link in sig).

You mention that you want to run 35s, so you do not need to go that deep on the gears! It would cost A LOT to go that low, and you would almost have to run something like Dana 60s F&R (not that that's a bad thing, but very expensive!). You can get D44 gears in a 5.38, but the pinion would be tiny and weak! I ran 35" swampers (measured closer to 36" actual) with 4.56s and it did just fine. In fact my speedo was correct with the stock speedo gear, so the overall ratio was right on with stock. 4.88s would be ideal once you factor in the added rolling resistance and weight of the larger tires, but I always had plenty of power and decent mileage. I am now running 33" ATs, but that's more or less temporary because I am going to be doing a lot of driving towing a camper in the near future. Feels like a sports car now compared to the with the swampers :D

Don't feel foolish for gathering info! Everyone is new to the MJ game at some point! You are taking the right steps by asking questions before starting your build. The best thing I can suggest for you at this point is to read, read, READ! There is a wealth of information on this site, and since the front half is virtually the same as an XJ, you can also research Cherokee forums for even more info. If I was starting over, now that I know how much there is to learn, I would take the following steps in determining the build. 1: Check forums for FAQ sections. This will teach you a lot about common problems and modifications. 2: Look at other builds! Read through others write-ups, and try to learn from others mistakes instead of making your own! 3: Don't assume you have to have the biggest, baddest Jeep out there. If you don't have an unlimited budget, this is just not gonna happen. Ignore the "one uppers" and build it for what you will actually use it for, investing your money wisely. 4: Get any standard mechanical and maintenance issues sorted out before doing anything "aftermarket". This will not only give you a more reliable ride, but you will learn a lot about the vehicle in general. 5: Read even more! 6: Determine the terrain you primarily wheel on, rocks, mud, dirt trails, sand, etc... Also determine how road friendly it needs to be, and how big can you go and still keep it street legal. 7: Develop an overall plan for the truck that you can more or less stick to before spending any money! It almost always starts with what size tires you want to run. 8: Finally start your build! I understand it can be hard to resist jumping right in, lifting it sky high and throwing some monster tires under it, but you will be MUCH happier in the end (and get flamed less, lol) by taking your time and going this route. In the meantime you can start an "MJ fund", so when the time comes you're ready. You haven't mentioned any mods it has already, but even a stock truck can go a lot of places, so you can still play in your truck while researching. Just make sure you at least have solid recovery points before venturing out. Skids and armor are also a good thing to add to the top of the list. Most importantly, have fun with it and welcome to the club!

Thanks for the useful input :roll: And thanks for the input Sir Sam and 87Warrior. I am still keeping Northern CO an option, I have just found cheaper land to the south. Chances are I will travel a bit before I find the right place to "settle down" anyway.

Hey everyone, if all goes as planned I am going to be relocating to Colorado here in a few months! It's somewhere I have always wanted to live, and I am finally in a position where I think I'm ready to do so. I will be heading out with a couple friends, and we plan to tow our campers out with our Jeeps (they each have an XJ). The exact time frame before leaving is unknown, but it should be in a few months. So who on here lives in Colorado? What part? We don't have an exact destination, but are thinking of staying south since "junk" land is so cheap. Feel free to give any input on your Colorado experiences and any recommendations you care to share. I have lived in some cold locations growing up (Maine, Montana, Oregon, etc...) but never at a high altitude, so any recommendations there would be appreciated as well, in case we end up high in the mountains. Also feel free to post up your favorite wheeling destinations!

The front gears are FINALLY on the way! It will sure be nice to get my 4wd back in time for winter! :jump: Other than that, I am getting ready to go through a "to do list" for the MJ, but unlike my normal off-road modifications, I am actually going the other way, making it more road friendly and reliable. The reason for this is I plan to relocate to Colorado in a few months, and am going to be pulling my camper cross country with it :D Here is my basic list: -Change ALL fluids and filters. I will even be changing the PS and brake fluids! -Replace front gears... FINALLY1 I'll be needing them out there! -Replace rear shocks and add mounts so I can bolt in a more stock location (currently they are inverted for more travel, but this causes more sway) -Check ALL joints, bushings, bearings and seals, replace as needed. -Add extra bracing to rear bumper to make me feel better towing ~4k lbs. I built it strong, but I like overkill! -Replace stock trans cooler with aftermarket HD unit -Install trans temp gauge and "autostick" like trans shifter. -Turn old trans cooler into power steering cooler. -Wire in trailer brake controller -Upgrade brake booster/MC to 96 dual diaphragm. -Change to bucket seats if budget and time allows. I have already replaced the 35" swampers with a set of non-aggressive 33" ATs. I must say this is the first time I have ever gone down in tire size! The ride is soooo much more road friendly, and it has much more power with the 33s and 4.56s. That should help a lot with the pulling! I will post updates as I tackle the list, and I'm sure I will find more to add as I go!

If you want to get an idea of the sound of different setups, check on youtube. An XJ will sound about the same, and there are many exhaust sound clips on there. Mine has a pretty deep, loud (but not annoying loud) sound with a cat that practically emptied itself (I just helped finish it), and a flowmaster 40 series dumped under the bed. Dumping it under the bed probably made the biggest difference in giving it the deeper tone at idle, but you'll have to check your local laws. In VA it just has to extend 13" past the passenger compartment if not ran all the way out. I will admit I am starting to get a bit tired of the drone that comes with chambered mufflers, and I will likely change it to something quieter soon. If I wasn't going to be driving it cross country in a few months, I doubt I'd worry about it though. I will also be replacing the cat, just cause I will be towing a camper and will need all the low end torque I can get!

The first thing I would check would be the MAP sensor on the firewall. Make sure the vacuum line to the TB is properly connected. I've had this hose come loose, causing the exact symptoms you describe. It's pretty easy to knock loose without realizing it. Also, if the battery died when it was parked, that could also explain why it started right up after sitting. Basically this would have reset the ECU, and it would run in "limp mode" (straight off the ECU without reading sensor input) until it warmed up and read all the sensors.

If your current shocks are the right length, you can just take them off and measure the compressed and extended lengths. If they are not the right length now, or you want to make sure they are... 1) Pull shocks off 2) Find somewhere to flex the suspension all the way. You can get creative, just make sure it's stable before getting out and under your truck!!!!! something like this... 3) If your tires are rubbing, you will need to extend your bumpstops and start over. 4) Measure the distance between the shock mounting points at all 4 corners. 5) Factor in a little extra for compression so the shock doesn't bottom out. About an inch is good. For example, if you measure 16" compressed, get a shock around 15" long when compressed. Depending on your suspension setup, you can't always find a shock that is long enough when extended (this is where limiting straps come into play). I always try to get the longest travel shock that has the proper compressed length.

If you can't find a replacement line, they make a flaring tool for brake lines to do this properly.

I believe most changed in 92. I know they still used some of the older style covers on 91s even though they had the HO engine. There isn't a big benefit other than an updated oil cap, and improvements in the CCV and breather hose connectors. You will want these hoses as well.

Yeah, your fine if you already have gauges. :hmm: Interesting...I don't think I've seen (or at least paid attention to) one with gauges and no tach. If you get a chance, please post up a pic of it. My curiosity has been sparked :D

You will also need the correct temp and oil pressure sending units to get the gauges to work properly. Everything else is "plug and play" :thumbsup:

Just differences in the proportioning valve, not the Booster/MC itself. I have rear discs and am getting ready to do this swap. So far I have kept the stock prop valve, and just did any adjustments with the stock load sensing valve. I was able to adjust it to where the fronts lock up just before the rears, like it should be. Then I just tied it into a fixed position rather than try to make it functional. I have heard of using the ZJ valve, but so far I haven't had to mess with it. I would be glad to post up if I notice any differences or have to make adjustments after the booster swap, but I kinda doubt there will be.

:agree: Again, the LCAs themselves really won't help the ride since it's angle, more than length, that determines the ride quality. They will however help keep the arms from hitting the coil bucket during droop situations, limiting flex. This is why most aftermarket arms either have a bend in them, or an offset joint like RE arms have. Adjustable arms are almost always the best choice if they fit your budget. You never know if you may end up going higher in the future. Plus, as mentioned, they give you more options on fine tuning the pinion/caster angle, although some adjustment can actually be made in the stock frame mount. And yes, if 3" is all you need, you can start with shocks and see what that gets you. I will add that if you decide to go to 4.5", you can use the shocks for the 3" with BPEs and they will be long enough. In other words, don't fear buying good shocks :D If it's still too stiff, it may be the "generic" coils. If they are like the Ranchos at around 235lbs, they are going to be stiff. Also, looking at that chart, I believe the RE 3.5" coils are misprinted, and supposed to be 141, not 241. I know for a fact RE rides softer than Rancho!

That would be a hi-lift jack ;) I never go wheeling without one. That thing has saved my butt in a few situations. Can also be used as a winch... one click at a time, lol. http://www.hi-lift.com/index.html Got to be careful with them though, they are as dangerous as they are handy!

The brackets do help a lot as far as centering the wheels. As far as arms, the uppers are stock, lowers are Rusty's adjustable. They are their old style, and use acme thread for adjustment. These were crap and would clunk, so eventually I just welded them fixed once I had all the angles set. If you just go to 4-4.5" and use the drop brackets, you can use your stock arms. If you do a lot of wheeling, you probably will at least want beefier lowers, simply to take the beating of rocks etc...

Well, they are basically just 2"x6" tube, with IIRC ~1.5" tube on top tying it into the door jam. Here is a quick ms paint diagram showing how they are mounted: At the bottom, I welded the rocker to the inside of the pinch seam, then folded it over the weld, and welded the seam to the tube, so it's "double welded" lol. It also work out well in that the extra bracing from the factory (from frame to rocker) was just right to weld to the bottom of the new rockers for even more strength. The hardest part is probably squeezing the assembly into place with the extra bracing on top. Not to mention I barely had any rocker left to work with :roll: Oh, and when you cut the old one, be prepared for $#!^ to fly everywhere. Mine were full of dirt, and I even found a mouse nest in there. All in all it worked out well, but if I wasn't working with limited materials, I would have made them long enough to protect the front of the bedsides as well. It is nice to not have to worry about rust, or hitting rocks! It also provides a good spot for hi-lift jacking. This was on my old XJ, but my camera was ok that day, so I got more pics. Basically the same process as the MJ. Before: Cut away: Tacked in place: Testing: Done: Real world testing, lol. Hope this helps, just let me know if you have any questions :cheers:

:hijack: That is clean! Nice! :cheers:

The brackets drop uppers and lowers about 4", and yes, I'd recommend them on a 4.5" lift. They can be used with anything 4" or more. I actually built my own cause I had more time and materials than money (but not enough for long arms) and I wanted to make them real beefy, but they can be bought for under $200. If you take a look at my build thread, I have some pics showing the difference in arm angles before and after (link in sig). As for the popping, the frame bracket can definitely make the popping noise. When I first lifted my old XJ I ran into this a lot with the crappy Rusty's TB and Mount. I'd recommend removing the bolts (can do one at a time), adding some locktite, and torquing them down. Just a tiny bit of play here will cause the popping. I finally ended up building my own TB and mount, and added a brace that runs to the pass side frame. Out lived the XJ and I swapped to the MJ and haven't had any problems with it since. On the other hand, 3 years is actually pretty good for a heim joint, and it very well may be worn out by now.

This is especially true when you have anything over 4.5" of lift. If the CA angles are steep, it won't matter if you had the best shocks and springs out there, it will still ride rough. This shouldn't really be a problem at 3" though. I am running pretty soft springs (Rustys 4.5" + 1.5" spacer) but do have cheap shocks (Rough Country). Before I installed my drop brackets it was a bit stiff, but now it rides like stock again! All that changed was the CA angles. Just installing longer arms won't help the ride at all, just the pinion angle. Long arms or drop brackets on the other hand is a different story. Now in your case, it could very well be a combination of stiff springs and shocks. Oh and if your looking for a softer shock, Rancho is not the way to go. Even the adjustable ones on the softest setting are too stiff for our light uni-body trucks! My next set will probably be Bilsteins of some type, they make great shocks!

Excellent job! Looks great! Congrats! :cheers:

Looking good man! If you don't plan on changing ride height again, and your pinion/caster angle is good, you really have no need for adjustable CAs at this time. Now you just need some bumpers ;)

I just looked at the Autozone website, and Airtex is what they sell (sells for $71.99 there). The one they have doesn't come with a new strainer, so make sure that one does, or you get one separate.