TrailReadyMJ

I had this exact same problem once, and it was in the same circuit mentioned above. It turned out one of the o2 sensor wires shorted on the exhaust and blew the fusible link near the battery. This happens to be the same circuit as the ballast resistor and fuel pump. The fusible links are basically just smaller wires that melt before the main wire does. They are all attached to the solenoid under the plastic cover behind the battery. Usually a gentle tug will tell you if one is bad, if it's not obvious.

Make sure you use a BRASS punch to remove the upper half of the seal. You don't want to damage the crank or block. Removing this can be the most frustrating part of the job. I've done a couple that came right out, but usually it's a PITA to get it started. As mentioned, make sure you keep all the bolts in order, especially the ones for the rear bearing cap (including the cap itself).

I agree with the gears... but as a band aid... You can also put in a switch to keep it from shifting into 2nd when in the 1-2 position. Just gain access to the TCU behind the passenger side dash. There is a YELLOW wire with a 10A inline fuse in it. If you install a switch on that wire to take power off the TCU (or remove the fuse), it becomes a "manual valve body". Just keep in mind you don't have any 2nd gear option when the power is off. You can however wire in another switch to choose between 1st and 2nd manually. To do this, you need to tap into the #1 solenoid (Dark Blue/White wire in TCU harness). By applying power to this wire (you can get power from the vehicle side of the Yellow wire mentioned above.), it will shift into 2nd gear when in the 1-2 position. Make sure you don't use the 1-2 switch when normally driving in 3rd or OD positions or unwanted gear changes will occur. Hope this helps :)

It could possibly be in the torque converter/trans. Does it seem to do it when the trans heats up???

I just leave mine open and spray it out when washing. I have heard of folks using, of all things, pool noodles. I take it they fold up and fill in the gap well. Personally, I like the idea of being able to wash it out versus using something that will trap moisture.

WOW, it's been a while since I updated this! Things I've done: -Installed non-disco D30 in front -Installed 8.8 with a LSD and discs in back -Installed 4.56 gears F&R -Put the 35's on -Removed flares and trimmed fenders -Chopped the rear quarters -Built rear bumper with d-rings and a hitch -re-mounted rear shocks for max travel Here are some pics :waving: Bumper (before welding on receiver mount) Some wheeling pics with the 35s Quick vid of me playing on a rock after hitting kodak rock at URE... no pics of kodak though, my camera was messed up :(. Note... I was going SLOW because a few people wanted pics.... not that I ever go fast as I fear the skinny...lol.

Yeah, I have an XJ and wheeled it to it's death... You are comparing XJs to MJs.... I was comparing SUA to SOA, with the same springs, sorry for any confusion. All I'm saying is just moving the axle doesn't effect the arch of the spring, so SUA or SOA are not relevant to your shackle angle. You are correct that the arch of the spring has an effect, just not the axle position. PS: XJ springs aren't flat, but they do have very little arch at ride height. Once they sag (like most you see now) they are pretty much flat.

Sorry, but I'd have to dis-agree with this... SOA or SUA, the static arch of the spring is the same no matter where your axle is. Same goes for the general rules as far as travel of the spring pack. No matter what your application is, you will get the best performance with around a 45* shackle angle. The ride won't get real bad until you have a negative angle, it's just the straighter the shackle, the less droop you will have.

I forgot to add a couple wheeling pics :)

Maybe their stuff has changed, but for the most part their stuff is junk. ALso their customer service sucks donkey balls. I can vouche for this myself. I agree that most of their stuff, and service, is junk... except the coils. I won't be buying any more hard parts from them though. I started out with Rusty's stuff in front, and the only thing I like is the coils. Everything else is slowly getting replaced, the only other thing I still run are the LCAs, and they clunk if not greased often. The coils are nice and soft, and balance well with the rear (4.5" coils, 1.5" spacer, SOA, stock springs, not MT). They started out on my XJ about 5 years ago and got put through a lot of abuse! I swapped them to the MJ last fall, and they still give about 5" of lift, and are even from side to side. It is also rumored RE uses the same spring manufacturer. On NAXJA, even Rusty's haters like the coils. I'm sure Rusty's parts are improving, especially now that the are using forged flex joints in the arms. Now they just need to learn how to weld!

Yup, sure is. I basically did this http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/tbconversion.html but added extra support.

Thanks for the comments. I am near the Blacksburg area.

Also...I have been working on a new and improved OBA setup for the MJ. I had a system on the XJ, but it required constant oiling, and was never leak free. Well, I pieced together a much better system out of parts I already had that came extra with my home air compressor. Here is a pic showing the components. I need to redo a couple things after installing and testing it. First the check valve should be before the safety valve. However, the check valve seems to be bad, so it's now just a fancy coupler :roll: . Also the pressure switch I had was way too low, like 20psi, so it will get replaced asap! The compressors have odd size fittings. On the XJ I just cut the AC hoses and used the stock connection. However, the MJ didn't even have AC stock, so I found a solution. It just happens that the inside of the output is just the right size to tap for 3/4" pipe thread! The input side is less critical since it isn't pressurized, so I just found a piece of PVC, and force threaded it on. I also ran a tube from the separator back to the oilier through an adjustable valve. This allows self lubrication, and other than an occasional oil change, it's maintenance free! I tested it, and it works great! Here you can see the tube, and intake side: I have installed it, but didn't get any pics yet. The compressor just bolted on in place of the idler pulley bracket, and all the stuff fits nicely in an area unused by Jeep. I ran the hose into the cab where there is a dash mounted pressure gauge. Then it goes out the back, and into my toolbox where the tank is stored. I found out a 5 gallon air tank fits perfect in the corner on my truck box! One day, the tank will probably move under the bed, but for now this is perfect! That's all for now... I promise :)

I have installed a lock right in front, the best part is it's for a D35 :shock: Here is the writeup I did on the NRVJC forum: Here it goes… This all started when I traded some work for a D35 Lock Right. I figured I could do one of two things with it. I had a D30 Lock Right, but it was missing the spacers that keep the couplers aligned. Before I saw it, I was going to see if these spacers were interchangeable, they are not! This ruled out the idea of piecing together the D30 Locker. Then I went on to plan “B”. I was just going to throw it in the rear for temporary, light throttle use. I have spare shafts, and full D35 internals, so I figured, why not? I got into tearing down the axle, and noticed I have a non c-clip D35. I didn’t think much of it, other than my spare shafts wouldn’t work. Since if it did break a shaft, it would not keep me from limping off the trail, I continued. Well, it turns out the non-c clip version has a larger carrier, and the locker won’t fit. With ideas brewing in my head, I continued to reassemble the axle. At least I have new gear oil! Now is where the outside the box thinking comes in. Looking at the two lockers, they appeared VERY similar in overall size, and are the same spline count and cut. I noticed the D35 Locker was slightly wider than the 30, but only .020” or so. I had a spare D30 Carrier lying around, so I figured what the hell… To my surprise, it fit great! The side couplers fit perfectly in the carrier, even the pin is the same diameter! With this test fitting done, I decided to try the real thing. I tore down the front end, and installed the locker normally. Once again it fit great, and I was feeling even more confident in the results. Below is a pic of the locker installed in the D30 carrier. The only real “disadvantage” I see is that it has the cutouts for the D35 c-clips. I reassembled the front end, and did the standard spin tests to make sure it would unlock. This was the thing I was most concerned with since this locker was a little wider. Worse case, this would cause it to either not unlock, or be rough in operation. I was pleased to find it unlocked very smoothly! I put it all back together and went for a drive. Like my previous Aussie, I couldn’t even tell it was there in 2wd! Slight clicking on slow, sharp turns, just like it is supposed to have! As I pulled back in my driveway (gravel), I engaged 4wd, and made a sharp turn. It was very apparent the locker was working, and my experiment was a success!!! I still have to actually try it out off road, but with everything in spec and functioning as it should, it should be just fine. I will report back once I get a chance, but with D35 lockers floating around for CHEAP, this could be a great option for those on a tight budget! Update: Well, I had a chance to test the locker out by climbing a hill/wall at work. It's a ~2ft retaning wall with a pretty steep, muddy little hill afterwards. It worked great! I climbed up without even spinning a tire :) I also played around a bit at my neighbours land, and it worked perfectly the whole time! I will also mention, I only tried this because it seemed to fit (and did!), and I have a couple extra D30s laying around if something went BOOM! We will see how it holds up in the long run, but so far, so good!

Here's the DB pics. Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: I got the swaybar link relocation brackets made. I also went in and added the strap to the stock UCA mount, as well as an extra mounting point to take full advantage of the stock LCA mount brace. I have a bit of an oil leak :shock:

Well, I got the brackets installed! It actually went pretty smooth and I had them on before lunch yesterday. Good thing too, since it rained all afternoon. I took several pics and will be uploading them later this morning. Like others, I need to raise the swaybar mounts! The steering would hit my endlink if connected, but JUST misses when disconnected. I was able to take it for a little drive without the swaybar, and it was MUCH improved! I definetly need to hook the swaybar up though, it's much "mooshier" now without it! I also did a little flexing, but didn't get pics of it :(. My shocks are definetly the limiting factor now, and will eventually get replaced with better/longer ones. I can tell I will be very happy with this setup once the little bugs are worked out and I can hook up the swaybar. Next will be OTK steering and a new, relocated, track bar. I have also installed my drop pitman arm and trackbar mount brace. I made this last year for my XJ. It is designed to use a ZJ arm (3/4" drop from XJ/MJ), not yet installed in pics.

On down the road a little... I did take a couple poser shots the other day when I got a small load of firewood. The bed is loaded down, so the front isn't maxed out although the sway bar is disconnected. Too bad the rear won't flex this easy under normal conditions, but once loaded down for the trail, I should have some decent weight back there. Here are some CA Drop Brackets that I built... yes built! I still want/need to make the braces, but many run these on MJs without, so I'm going to go ahead and install them once I get time. In addition to the normal DB mounting, I have added 2 self tapping bolts that will run straight up into the "frame". They go through the pocket, as well as the thicker part of the fame rail, so hopefully there will be enough to grab. These are also a one piece design as far as the UCA goes, however there will be a strap going from the outside of the bracket, up to the stock UCA mount. I also added a few adjustment points for the UCA, including an extra 1" stretch. I will be running stock UCAs for now, so this gives me more options. My camera is acting up, so I only took a couple cell phone pics as the paint was drying. I'll try to get more, as well as some install pics. I have about $10, and about 12 Hrs of work in these so far, including design time :)

As mentioned, I needed some tunes. I installed some Kenwood Excelon 6.5" coaxials in the doors, and a Excelon CD/USB player in the dash. I install for a living, and got this stuff free through a promotion! I need to paint those door jams! I also want to mention I installed a gauge cluster from a XJ with a tach and gauges. It originally had the idiot lights and giant fuel gauge (that was broken). I was able to get it inspected with no problems after going through all the lights. I also had to fix the horn, and just wired in a momentary push switch. I have been driving it regularly, and it gets all kinds of attention! I can't even count the number of people that said I should paint a white star on the doors :lol: . I am hoping the engine will hold through the winter, the knock isn't that bad. That will give me time to pull the 4.0HO from the XJ, and go through it. This will actually be the 4th Jeep it's been in, with only about 100K or less on the clock! That's a different story though. I had to trim the fenders some, and removed the "air dam" below the front bumper. I will be running 35s once I get the axles done, so I will need to do some more. Total out of pocket cost so far, not including the truck... $0!!!

First off, I would like to say hello to my fellow MJers!!! There are sure some nice trucks on this board! I have been a long time member of several clubs, online and local, but this is my first post(s) on here! I am also known as trailreadyxj on most forums including NAXJA. Anyway, here are the posts I have made on other boards for my ever continuing project! I'm posting a bunch at once, so please bare with me... 1989 MJ, 4x4, 4.0, AW4, D30/35 , NP231. The day I brought it home. The PO decided to shoot it OD green, but ran out of paint before hitting the roof and in the bed. Needless to say, I will be redoing some bodywork. I am going to keep the color though. I cleaned it up a bit, rattle canned the inside of the bed for now, and primered the roof. I needed to get this thing on the road ASAP, and as cheap as possible! It needed several things to be road worthy. A couple tires, both unit bearings, and the shocks were totally shot. It also has a rod knock, and had no power with tons of hesitation! The heater didn't work, and the blower would only kick on every once and a while. I can't complain, I didn't expect much from a $500 truck! I have wanted one of these for years now, and my XJ had seen better days! My plan is to swap the lift, wheels and tires, and engine from the XJ. So, I got to work! Unfortunately I had to work on it in my gravel/grass driveway due to a friends XJ occupying my small garage. I mixed and matched until I had everything I needed to replace the necessary parts. I pulled the front springs, trackbar and CAs from the XJ. Then I stuck it all under the MJ. In the last pic, I drove it into work to fix the blower and install some tunes! I did a SOA in the rear, so I had to add some spacers in front to level it out at about 6". DBs or LAs are in the very near future, but overall this thing rides great! After giving it a tune up, the power is back and I was able to get up to ~75MPH with no problems or vibes (it will rarely see those speeds!). I kept the stock axles in it for now :( . I will be building a ford 8.8 and a non-disconnect HPD30, with 4.88s and probably Aussies. I don't plan to wheel it hard until I get the axles done, but have spare D35 parts, just in case.