flint54

I'll add just a couple comments: 1) Highly recommend you locate and select a machine shop with performance experience on our motors. 2) I am fortunate to have nearby a machine shop that does nothing but cylinder heads, and does them very well, and he told me I could easily drop $1000 in labor on the head alone, should I choose to. I did not choose to, but the point is, power costs money, how much do you wish to buy. Hope you are able to strike a good balance between cost and result.

SCORE !!!!! Thanks Tim!!

Did you get your vents? I'll be back in FL next week and have a pair for you - free if you pick them up.

BTW, it appears the B&M now owns Hurst brand.

Thanks! I'm not locked onto any particular brand, but I want high quality, I want good fit in the original boots, and I want the OEM shift knob to remain. Hurst has been around for quite some time and is known for good stuff.

I was going to replace mine because the threads had wornj some. Ordered replacements, and they're knurled just like lug nut studs. Had the manifold off and observed that the heads are actually spot welded to the flange in two places. I cut this weld back as best I could with a dremel, and then placed the flange over a socket to provide support. I wailed on those miserable ba#$%@ds for a long time with my small sledge and they would not budge. I decided that mine will last a while longer as is. I hope you have better success, and suggest you just grind the heads off flush and then drill them out. I suggest you not beat on them unless the manifold is removed.

I believe the way these shifters work is by raising (+Z) the rotation axis so that the arm length below the pivot is increased and the arm length above the pivot is decreased. Seems the X and Y shouldn't change. What I'm wondering is whether the bolt-up is the same, whether the internal engagement is the same, and whether it fits within the original boots. I've made an inquiry to the source (no answer yet), but curious if anyone else has tried this item. I'll post back if I I learn any more.

Has anyone installed this shifter: http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=preci ... p-wrangler to a 91 or 92 MJ AX-15? Says for YJ, but parts manual indicates the shift mechanism is different between YJ and XJ/MJ, even though rest of trans may be the same.

"Where can i find a replacement for my sheered off bolt?" I found mine at Ace Hardware. Perfect match. Replaced both. Concluded that rear could not be done without pulling head. Maybe you will have better luck, as mine had broken off below the surface.

At the Pick-a-Part in Fredricksburg, VA. good slider window, good headliner board, good front fenders. It was axle-deep in frozen mud so no telling what's underneath. No cargo light, and I got the tail lights.

I know of three possible outcomes for jumped timing: A) motor runs like sh&t until the timing is resolved B) valves meet pistons and pushrods get bent C) valves meet pistons much more harshly and parts break Some motors have very little tolerance for off timing, and I don't know about this one specifically. When valves hit pistons, it's usually very obvious. Look at pistons and see if you find contact marks. No matter what you find, I agree with Eagle that this shop is a place to run from. Cut your losses now, rather than giving them another chance to screw up your motor, which, I hope, might be salvagable. Unless you can confirm this motor is worth salvaging, you may be better off to just get another. If a metal fragment (like a valve or piston chip) grooves a cylinder, it likely will take more than honing to resolve. If it were me, I wouldn't put more money into this motor without going all the way. Hard to know what this shop actually did, no matter what they say they did.

I recently had a similar issue with a motorcycle. I took the bike to the DMV, had them read the VIN to verify, and they sent a form letter to the previous registered owner requesting them to contact me. I provided my contact information, plus a note offering a reward for their troubles. Within a week I got the call I needed, drove an hour to meet them at their local DMV, and the title transfer was resolved. There is also the possibility of having a LEO look up the VIN, but they're not really supposed to provide the personal info, just whether or not the vehicle has ever been reported as stolen. Good luck!

Sorry to hear of your circumstance! Out of curiosity, how many miles were on the motor before the rebuild? If it ran well for 9000 miles, seems the timing was at least set correctly. I'm wondering if new chain and tensioner were actually installed. If I hire out work (which is rare), I insist on seeing the old parts. Is the head off? Have you seen if there's damage? I don't know how unforgiving this motor is for wrong valve timing. Did it jump far enough to break parts, or just run very poorly? Anyone else think there should be a visual difference between a low mileage and a high mileage chain? How far beyond 12 months were you?

:agree: Those are good folks with a good product.

I believe the OEM part number is 4338-943, if that helps.

I'm looking for the thin black plastic cover that has symbols for both the fog light and for the cargo light.

Since the old topic resurfaced, I ended up taking some measurements and had a local fabricator make me some rails using aluminum diamond plate - four pieces. Had to do some final fitting/trimming, but very pleased with them.

I saw the mention of SPAL controller. It is a good one, but be aware that it is not intended for fans drawing high current. Plus, if you intend to use their sensor (FAN-PWM-TS) there is a possibility it will not work correctly for you. Mine did not, and I was able to obtain the calibration curve from SPAL and discovered the resistances were very far off where they were supposed to be. The OEM sensor will work just fine.

Very nice!!! Interested in learning which paint/process you chose, and which items were removed (vs. masked). Were there any sheet metal repairs? What was done beteeen cab and bed?

"....Curious, how do the rest of you prep a vehicle for reliability before putting it into service....." Step 1: Make the brakes work well, whatever it takes Step 2: Make the steering work well, whatever it takes Step 3: Everything else That's my priority order. BTW, I also highly recommend Kelley's cables, beaten only if you have a local supplier of red and black welding cable by the foot, and the means to crimp end fittings.

So then, steering back towards technical...,since proper operation apparently hinges on this distinction, can someone describe the difference between fog lights and driving lights? Is it the aim point? pattern? brightness? shape? mounting position? Some, or all, of those? My searching has lead to a wealth of conflicting information, including FL statutes that permit no more than four forward facing lamps, two "headlamps" and two "auxilliary lamps". My suspicion is that the variety of laws = 50.

Please delete the thread. My second message led this in a wrong direction. Anyone dumb enough to aim fog lights so they would blind oncoming traffic probably should not be working on wiring anyways.

It is my responsibility to operate in a safe manner, and as long as I do so, it is the government's obligation to stay the h$ll out of my business. I don't give a rat's rear about this being illegal, and I'll bet a quart of home-made untaxed liquor that I never have the "opportunity" for a roadside chat with the local constable over this matter. (the lights are OEM stock) Headlights (low or high) give me long range visibility, and fog lights give me up close and roadside. End of

Motor issues behind me, I can turn to better projects. Long tired of having fog lights accessible only when low beams are on, I decided to use the "burger king" tactic and make them work "my way". I want fog light capability whether or whether not any of my headlights are on, and I want to avoid accidentally leaving them on. The fog light switch has a violet with white stripe lead that supplies power from the dimmer switch. The under dash fuse panel has an empty terminal marked "IGN" that is hot on run (off when key off). It was a simple matter to reroute power to the switch using a jumper with spade terminal from "IGN", then cut the lead so it no longer feeds from the dimmer. Ten minute job, and cost = zero.

Yaaaaaaaaa-Hooooooooooo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The problem seems solved!! Lad over on the Hesco forum recommended I check the cam sensor. When I looked at it closely, it appears as though I had somehow pinched the lead. Don't know how, probably caught it under the lip of the dist. cap. With this now fixed, the truck runs like a scalded dog. OH MY GOODNESS do I have power now! Mountains of torque, and revs cleanly to redline under full power. I hope this nightmare never happens to anyone else, ever. Plus side is that I've got quite a box full of used parts, many of which are probably still good.