flint54

RE: "You also give up quite a bit of ground clearance with the 242." That was not the case when I did the swap. My MJ came with a bash plate under the T-case. Whan I swapped from 231 to 242 the bash plate went back on with no issues, and same gap. I gave up zero ground clearance.

I switched to Redline MT recently and the improvement was dramatic. Much somother shifting.

My opinion, worth no more than the ink it took to write it, is that's a bad idea for 4 reasons: 1) is isn't original 2) it introduces yet another source for leaks 3) it possibly weakens the cab 4) when you get old and lose your hair it will sunburn your scalp

Thanks all. I agree on the side steps, they're useless on this truck at stock height, and will be coming off as soon as I get back out there. There are a few "mystery wires", from PO to deal with, and it will get all new fluids. Might even fix the sagging headliner, but I don't plan to do anything else but wax the original paint, and pressure wash the underside after the last snow is gone sometime in June.

People, horses, and trucks are not meant to live alone. So, this beast has now been added to the fleet: Image taken 2 days ago in front of our Montana place, at 10 degrees below zero. Truck is a 1986 J20 with 56k original miles. It sucks gas like there's no shortage of dinosaurs, but it will pull a lot more than the Comanche.

Possibly could be done that way, but I found it easiest to just pull the fuel rail (and electrical connectors) off the injectors, disconnect the linkages and vacuum, and R&R both manifolds together. Leave the fuel lines attached to the rail. Be careful not to overtorque the two (one in front and one in back) nuts onto the studs.

My opinion is: Purolator PureOne PL30001 (extra capacity) oil filter FSM specified Champion RC12LYC plugs OEM rotor and cap Belden wires Chevron Techron every 10 or so tanks of fuel Bosch used to be good stuff back when it actually came from Germany, but now I think they come from venezuela or one of those other bananna countries and I've seen oil filters bad in the box.

I also think that the FSM is the very best manual to use. They're not cheap (like auto store manuals) but I've found them worth their weight in gold for level of accurate detail. My OEM two volume set for 1992 cost me about $75.00. I keep them behind the driver seat.

Without digging deeply into physics yet (we could, but lets hold off for now), consider this. Today I can make 90 mph, and I can accelerate beyond 90 mph, on a flat road. Therefore, I have more than enough power while turning just over 2900 rpm. Can I make 90 mph with reduced RPM? The answer has to be "yes". The question then becomes, at what RPM does the answer become "no". Since I don't have an affordable dyno in my neighborhood, I've got no reference to actual available power other than this generic chart: which shows the nearly linear HP increase and the famously flat torque curve. I'm likely a bit better than stock, but not too much. If the engine's "sweet spot" is 2500 RPM (and I agree that's a good area), and if I can reduce my RPM ~20% or so to get into that spot, I may, or I may not, still generate enough HP to reach 90. A charge up the Pd/Cd calc hill would tell for certain (with an accurate plot), but I still contend that I could operate at my desired speed range, at lower RPM's, and not have the fuel rate plummet. It may not be 90 at 2000, it may be 88 at 2300, but that's ok. Now if you ask whether it's worth doing, that's a much easier question: "Not in this world". Merry Christmas!

It depends on which sender you have. Mine (1992) is adjustable for float position at the rheostat. Suggest you pull the sender (it's easy) and evaluate. If there isn't an obvious adjuster, you still might be able to adjust the float angle so that the float position more accurately reflects the fuel quantity.

To mvusse, I have located three of these units, they are findable. To Eagle, I have 3.55 gears (I changed them from 3.08). Above 80mph I'm turning more RPM's than I wish to. I drive this truck regularly at highway speeds where 80-90mph (and up) is common. I'm not chasing mpg miracles, as the wind resistance at the higher speeds will chew that up fast. I just want to run at lower RPM on my highway trips, and keep my 3.55 gears. My objective is to be able to run 90+ with RPM's just above 2000. The (0.71) Hone unit is all mechanical, and I think could be made to fit. My biggest concern is the resulting driveline angle. I'm waiting for dimensions to figure out what that might be, but it may be too steep. Gear Vendors told me "no" for just that reason.

I have not given up this quest, and just recently came across some info about a mechanical OD unit made decades ago for high performance cars, called a Hone-O-Drive ( http://www.stangerssite.com/honeodrive.html). I think the universal model could be mounted between T-case output and diff input, with some creative yoke mods. Until I learn the length, won't know how badly it would crew up D-shaft angle. Opinions?

Please warn us - who's reman engine was it? Something like that at 282 miles would likely tempt me to request a refund, and shop somewhere else.

Well, the only thing that comes to mind is a brakelight kill switch, for running through the woods with minimum lights.

Thanks! I think they're LED's, they look that bright. And, they dim only to about 50% and then cutoff. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Off to Skycraft (our local mil surplus outlet) tomorrow.

Need an electrical wizard's advice. My A/F meter dims with the dash lights, but remains an order of magnitude too bright at all settings except "off". I would like to wire in a pot, balance it, and forget it. Can anyone enlighten me how to do this correctly? Thanks!

Cool! Wonder what I would do with all those switches?

IMHO, harness and relays are a must do for the headlight upgrade. I'm very pleased with my headlight upgrade. My only regret is that nobody makes a "self leveling" headlight (similar in principle to a dash compass) because when I load up the bed oncoming drivers are unhappy. Even with MT springs and great shocks, a few inches down in back makes a big difference to headlight aim point.

For 88-90, and presumably others, the heater core is same with or without AC. The heater core housing is different since for AC it has to also hold the evaporator. HOUSING, Heater 8350 0957 w/o Air Cond. 8350 0959 w/Air Cond. Hope this helps.

We looked very closely for that. Very simple circuit, very confident it's single layer only.

Added an A/F meter to the dash panel just right of the cluster. Wanted the OEM clock also. Found said clock (actually several) at the JY and proceeded to methodically ruin each and every one of them. In this image you see the clock body, cut to receive the A/F meter. That hole required a minor trim of the circuit board. Note the three trimmed boards to the left. Although it looks drastic, that cut violated only one trace on the board. A jumper wire was carefully soldered to bypass the cut trace. The soldering was done by someone (not me) very well versed in miniature circuit board design and assembly, and then carefully checked for shorts and for continuity. Each board worked fine before the mod, and worked fine after the soldering, but failed after the trimming (by dremel). I can only surmise that the vibration caused a component failure (???). So, my fallback option shown here is to mount the meter in an original blank panel: But I really want a clock there also. Any suggestions?

As far as bumpers go, the MJ OEM unit is truly crap. They rot, they deflect if you rest your foot on it for more than 10 seconds, and they don't even look that good, BUT they are original and that alone motivates some of us. I've managed (so far) to not back into anything, but I suppose it can happen to anyone. I wish there were someone who made a new unit identical in every way except double (or triple) the sheet gauge. Biotex, if you have one, and you're thinking of gaining a few dollars towards a real, non-OEM bumper, send me some good inside and outside images to evaluate to (flint54@cfl.rr.com) and let's see where it goes. Thanks!

I Know it's probably a waste of keystrokes, and I'm not the only one who wants one, but I've been good (to my jeep) all year, and would love to find one under the Christmas tree this year. I'll even pay for it.

RE: " Seems to me like not shifting like a retard would make it a moot point." Yep! If somone is going to firewall the throttle and dump the clutch, they should just expect bad things to happen occasionally.

I have the set of u bolts with the plates and I have 4 or 6 additional single various u bolts. If they can go in a USPS flat rate box, will be $30 shipped.