SBpunk

So am I going to have to get my gears set up again? Pulled the carrier out to clean up the axle and this piece is new to me. The adjuster ring and I'm guessing it doesn't just go back into place

1992 MJ LWB original D35 In the process of swapping in an 8.25 and was wondering what everyone did for the rear load sensing valve on the brakes? I tried to find the delete write up but no luck and the few I found none of the pictures were loading. I'm not even 100% mine works but rather be safe than sorry when transporting the little one. Thanks

Thanks again! Learning on the go Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

After putting the adapter on did you have to do anything else? I put it on the part I circled, hooked up the line, tilted upside down etc. The line fill line filled up but nothing went into the actual compressor like the valve was shut on the compressor side.

Hahahaha noooooo plasti dip for this guy. If I can find the original decals I'll probably just get it painted back to stock and have the decals put on professionally. If not who knows. Bed liner isn't out of the question but I'm definitely leaning more toward an out of garage paint job.

Looking for a set of the original side steps for a long wheel base comanche. Thanks

How does the stuff handle getting wet though? Its water based so I'm guessing not a great idea if you have leaks or do off roading around bodies of water

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?364431-All-XJ-MJ-overheating-issues-explained-NOOB-s-welcomeOk...there seem to be too many threads with "my xj is overheating" or "yet another overheating thread" or "it only overheats when..." and I am going to try to answer them all and maybe we can get this to become a sticky or maybe posted somewhere. All cherokees from the factory have a cooling system which is designed to remove heat from the engine and transfer it away. Coolant being pumped by a water pump flows through cooling jackets/passages in the head and block of the engine. It flows around exhaust and intake ports and around the cylinders. From there it goes to the radiator which had hundreds of small fins to increase surface area and that allows as much air as possible to take heat away from the coolant and the cycle repeats istelf over and over. Chrysler opted for a mechanical clutch style cooling fan to draw air over the radiator to cool at idle and slow speeds. Some models depending on options also have an electric fan for optional A/C or towing package which turns on with a/c (on 2000 and 2001 xjs it turns on with a/c only when pressure in the lines goes past 300 psi) or when coolant temperature exceeds between 218-224 degrees F. When working correctly and all parts are maintained, this setup works great. Here are some reasons your cherokee would overheat (240+f) at idle but not at 30+mph: Fan clutch worn out Old coolant Aux. electric fan not turning on blocked radiator or coolant passages Low fluid level Low engine oil level Water pump impeller wearing causing low flow at slow speeds clogged radiator fins or air blockage to radiator Damaged fan shroud Retards who upgrade engines and leave stock cooling system If your cherokee overheats on the highway 240+F: Clogged passages Stuck closed thermostat Towing a heavy load up a grade on a hot day w or w/o ac on (temp. overheat) contaminated coolant bad waterpump clogged radiator fins blocked airflow brakes sticking/ebrake on If you overheat on the highway and NOT at slower speeds / idle: partial blocked passages not flowing enough for highway engine demand but flows enough at idle. Radiator blocked or fins clogged for same reason above Brakes sticking Overloading Also, xj's have tight engine compartments and they will run 220ish in the summer with a/c on or off and that is NORMAL for xj's. Other vehicles have different coolant temps that they are designed to run well at so don't do too much comparing such as " my Taco runs 210 even though I beat it half way to hell) Thats great...I only like taco from taco bell and the one she gives me...but anyway Another thing to note...fan clutches run about 40bux new depending where you go. With personal issues there is no TRUE way to test a clutch because they fail soo many ways (trust me). Next time your engine is getting very hot, open the hood and feel the air the fan is pulling...rev er up some and if its not hurricane force, then replace that clutch. With the new body style xj's they upgraded the E-fan to a higher flow rate...so that might be an option for upgrades. Please add on if you have anything extra. Thanks for the sticky!

The hole you're talking about doesn't have a bolt. Skid wasn't really meant for rocks it was more for branches and to keep stuff out of the engine bay. I took mine off the first time I had to do any work under the vehicle. Hasn't gone back on since. Same with the gas tank skid.

Sounds better than my plan. Was just going to measure the distance between the outside of the spring perches on the old axle and mark the center. Then get the center on the new axle from measuring tube end to tube end. From that center mark the distance out from the old axle on the new

Herculiner or just in general? Mind if I ask why if its just in general? In general. I did my own MJ, but I've done a couple vehicles since then for people using different products. The last one was a 91 Toyota pickup. If you're going to do heinous body work and want it covered, sure, it's the way to go, and with that truck it certainly was the case. It's just always going to look dirty, unless you pressure wash it all the time, and I just can't stand it. And if it does rust under it, you won't get any symptoms until it's quite terrible, and then it's really terrible to get it off to do anything about it. I'd go with a cheap Macco paint job, you do the prep. At least I'm assuming you can still get a Macco paint job in the US for very little money. Or I'd just buy a cheap gun and go at it with implement paint (rent a compressor if you need to). Or find somebody other than Macco that will spray it if you do the prep. Or even, gasp, Valspar with a roller and add the hardener. If your paint is intact you could try cutting it and polishing it too. It would blow you away what some of the products out there can do. Understandable. The rust factor is the only thing I was worried about. The bed its not such a big deal since I can pull it and do some preventative stuff to the frame and underside. The cab is another story. Water getting into the unibody frame is going to happen and getting some of the inside panels with POR 15 or whatever isn't going to be possible. The longer I have this thing the more original I want to keep it with the exception of gearing, MT springs and a 8.25 rear end. Maybe I'll just get some quotes for paint and hope for the best.

Herculiner or just in general? Mind if I ask why if its just in general?

Same here. Heard you have to reset the gears when you change out the rear yoke seals. I wish I had the skills to do it would save me a lot of money down the line when I step up to 4.56 gearing.

Good time to do it. I stripped mine all the way down. Its prepped for sandblasting but I pulled the seals, out side bearings, brakes, shafts and anything else including the carrier to get it ready. I'd weld the perches on with the shafts out for sure.

Ive never been a big fan of the herculiner bodies but monstaliner is at least a little closer to paint texture wise. Plus its something I can do in the garage. I don't have the knowledge to spray paint or the compressor for it.

So my paint is pretty horrible on the Comanche and was hoping to hear from people that have bed lined their vehicles? I am aiming toward Monstaliner and doing a medium coat. Their stuff is a little smoother with built in UV protectant. The bed and floors I'm going to hit with Raptor either way. My biggest concern is rust under the liner. If prepped correctly it shouldn't be an issue right? Underside is going to be wire brushed and completely coated with their rust prevention paint. Any opinions would be great thanks!

Thats right. Was thinking of the U joints on the dana 30 fronts

Its cheaper thats for sure. You have less options for lockers down the road, think the gearing caps out at 4.88, look for a 94+ for the 29 spline out of an auto and still trying to figure out the u bolts and shock mounts. If you're doing spring over go with the longer spring perches (ruffstuff is a good company) under it doesn't really matter. Grab a 96 XJ brake booster. Its damn near bolt in depending on what year you're working with. Even if its not its a lot less work. Disk brakes and prop valve I haven't looked into yet

I checked the box a few times its in good shape. My clutch isn't leaking yet...

I figured i'd just swap all the fuses and no luck. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Might be the fact my b pillar light cords are just hanging out flapping all over the place. Probably should tape them off before I swap fuses again.

That'd be awesome. If I can get it working through the original wire again that'd be awesome

Ended up just using the constant from the clock that I don't have.

1992 MJ Radio isn't turn on at all. Pink wire has no power with or without the key Switched wire has power with key on Ive ran a tester up the wire as far as I could go and nothing Fuse under "Radio" in the box isn't blown (swapped it out just incase) Fuse in the radio isn't blown (wouldnt matter its not getting power down the harness) Is there another place to start looking?

Will check it out. Not sure what is up with mine yet but like to do my research way ahead of time hahahaha. Thanks again

Does it give procedures for using the stop leak? Guessing it has to be at a certain psi and only use a certain amount