redwolf624

pete. how many threads have i started where someone has stated a full detail 3.4 swap lol, besides, i just capped off 80% of my vaccum lines and i have just a much power as a 3.4 right now. but on a different note, a 4.0 swap will come in time, i just gotta get this one running long enough to get another jeep (that'll be my new daily driver) and have my 86 as a toy :cheers: Redwolf

i have noticed that in my search for a new carb for my MJ, but if i have a bad carb to begin with wouldn't swappin engines and puttin a bad carb on it still cause issues? that's why i'm lookin at doin both at once, Redwolf

glad to know that now before i ended up buying a holly 4 barrel but since we're on the topic of carbs now i gotta question, i do wanna get away from my stock rotchester carb and go different but i've been told if i put a webber or a carter on a GM engine it'll run bad, how is that possible? Redwolf

well i was thinkin since it's a bigger engine maybe i could use a 4 barrel carb :dunno: i'm decent at pullin motors by now, it takes me a day to strip them down and build them back if i start at 630 and good point ok, but i've noticed on later model MJs the XJ air box is where my washer fluid and coolant overflow tanks are, if i was to swap a XJ air box in would i have to move the tanks? Redwolf

yes i know about the 3.4 swap but i've also heard that it'll eat my ax5 trans, i'm trying to drop somethin in that's already been in, no changing anything cause i now have a 3.4 block with 2.8 parts. and as far as the limit slip swap, if it's just cheaper and easier to swap the dana 35 for the 8.8 i'll find a 8.8 with a limit slip, i've never swaped diff gears before, Redwolf

so we all know i've been using junkyard 2,8 engines every time i destroy mine; well i'm starting to save up for a reman 2,8 (only because i can swap 2.8 to 2.8 in a day or two and i don't have a backup vehicle) but i'm lookin to project my MJ starting with the engine. i wanna get rid of the air cleaner and air box it like a TJ and i also wanna snorkel it when i but the TJ air box in, but how possible will that me? that's just the start of the project, next will be adding a dana 30 to the front and slappin a limited slip in the dana 35 in the rear if i don't swap it out to the ford 8.8, Redwolf

That's where they run. The purpose is to get the air inlet up high enough, and perhaps facing to the rear, so the intake is above any water or muck that you're likely to encounter. well i guess if i can't sell the MJ, and can fix it, it's project snorkel, Redwolf

A decent snorkle arrangement will not use the factory air cleaner, it will use something that can provide a decent seal. Yes, it does. No good. See above. Time to start thinking about the aftermath. Didn't you just go through an engine swap to get your truck running again? Do you want to do that again? Even if you don't hydrolock it, every time you suck in mud you're effectively abrasive blasting the interior of your engine. You're going to destroy it. It's just that simple. Water on the top (outside) of the air cleaner wing nut is NOT your problem. It's a lot more serious than that. You need a good snorkle that will relocate the carburetor air intake up high enough that you won't be sucking in mud and water. You need something like this: http://www.rocky-road.com/jeep-cherokee-snorkel.html i've looked at safari snorkels before but never really thought much of them as i have a carb, but now the snorkels i was lookin at do seem like a good idea i just don't know how the mount up, i always see them goin up the side of a windshield of jeeps, Redwolf

never thought about the wing nuts with silicone, how bout the over lip on the air cleaner top? i can't just stop mudding, that's like tellin someone to stop smokin :rotf: Snorkle i've thought about a snorkle but that still doesn't stop the fact of the water that gets on top of the air cleaner i do have the factory air cleaner if a air cleaner hose from the cleaner to the grille top one would be nice for a snorkle, bottom would be great untill i flood out, Redwolf Damn. You run that deep in 2wd? i aint afraid to try anything once plus if i have a buddy with a tow point i'll get out some how, normally when i mud i don't think of the aftermath, Redwolf

i can't just stop mudding, that's like tellin someone to stop smokin :rotf: Snorkle i've thought about a snorkle but that still doesn't stop the fact of the water that gets on top of the air cleaner i do have the factory air cleaner if a air cleaner hose from the cleaner to the grille top one would be nice for a snorkle, bottom would be great untill i flood out, Redwolf

so as we all know i'm 2wd but still take my MJ mudding, well the last two times i've done it i've sucked in water/mud and messed up my carb, is there anyway to somehow seal my system to where i can mud and not suck in everything, i know i can't exactly seal off the air cleaner but what could i do to reduce my chances or messing stuff up when i do mud, Redwolf

alright, any suggestions as to what brand and what style lift, weather it's long arm or somethin else, Redwolf

i was thinkin like a 3" maybe 3.5" lift just to have that extra umph of ground clearance, bigger tires and of course deeper mud holes without fluidin my comanche's floors out. i know my leafs are pretty warn and have been told by my state inspector i should get them replaced before they become really bad; i know for a fact this is by far gonna be one of my most exspencive projects, i know i'll be spending atleast 1500 easy on this just because of all the stuff i'm replacin when i do this, Redwolf

thanks for the pics it really cleared things up but still some unansweared questions like shocks, coil springs and leaf spring, i've been told that if i lift my jeep i'll need to get different shocks, coil springs and add leafs to my leaf spring packs, with all of that (except for shocks) having to be replaced anyhow would it be a good idea just to by a complete set for a long arm rig since i have coil springs in the front? that's great to know and i'll deffently do that, one less thing i'll have to do :) trust me, i plan on fixing it first, Redwolf

ok so i'm slowly still fixin my MJ, i got a few oil leaks goin on that i'm fixing tomorrow. after i fix the oil leaks i plan on paintin it red again to get rid of the orange color from all the sun baked red; next i plan on lifting it but don't know the difference between long arm, shackle, add a leaf and all that, i do need new leaf springs and coils, i'm lookin at goin 3.5-4inches of lift but i'm also lookin for the best way to go since i gotta replace all the springs; also we all know i've talked about a 4wd converstion, if i lift my MJ while it's still 2wd will i be able to use the same lift when i'm 4wd? Redwolf

i changed them yesterday mornin, easier than what i thought, but my broken CV axle sound is still around but only when i turn now, i'm thinkin it might be time for ball joints or sway bar links, Redwolf Do you even reai have a CV joint? must be hidden very well in my solid axle :dunno: but a broken CV axle is the sound i'm hearin but the thing is, i don't have CV axles, YES IT ALL MAKES SENSE NOW........EXCUSE ME FOR QUESTIONING YOU..... :wall: look, i know i don't have CV axles or joints, i have ball joints and a solid dumby axle, but the noise i am hear is like a broken CV axle, that's why i had mentioned CV axles, Redwolf

2wd......signature...... :thumbsup: But his response is so sketchy you can't tell .....REDDOG......were do you have a CV joint? i have a CV joint? must be hidden very well in my solid axle :dunno: but a broken CV axle is the sound i'm hearin but the thing is, i don't have CV axles, Redwolf

i changed them yesterday mornin, easier than what i thought, but my broken CV axle sound is still around but only when i turn now, i'm thinkin it might be time for ball joints or sway bar links, Redwolf

would love to see some pics of this :needpics: Redwolf

It's actually pretty simple, Just make sure you are tapping the new cap on straight, and the bearings don't pop out. yeah i'm learnin that, the needle bearings are actually why i'm replacin my ujoints and there in lies the problem, i don't have the money to take it to someone and my dad never messed wth ujoints before, he only greesed them, Redwolf

that hammer method looks a lot easier lol but i'll deffently give that a try, thanks, Redwolf

AutoZone or Advanced Auto will generally "rent" you tools like a ball joint press for nothing. You give them a security deposit, take the tool home and use it, and you get your money back when you return the tool. didn't know that, normally i have the tools i need or i rig something, guess it's time to talk to the manager at autozone that work deals with again :D, Redwolf

ok, so what if i don't have a vice or a ball point press or the money for any of it, i do have a C clamp. Redwolf

well it's my turn to change those dreaded u joints, i went to change em at work today but they look like they have to be pressed out, how can i get my u joints out without bein violently destructive, just remember it is the 2wd rear drive shaft, but i have 4wd u joints (only thing anyone round here sells oddly, Redwolf

so i got the MJ runnin, the exhaust leaks, that'll be fixed tomorrow night, gettin my alignment done again tomorrow, been hearin a broken CV axle noise when turnin so i'm hopin that fixes it and i'm bout to slap the offroad lights on and run the wires :banana: Redwolf