HOrnbrod

The factory never offered an MJ or XJ brush guard. Probably a dealer installed option.

Yeah, that's true. Too bad the I6 does not. The output of the PS sensor on the I4 can be paralleled and used as an Extended Idle dash switch like the police package XJs used to have.

Damn, I hate tornadoes. We get a lot of them down here. They are kind of unusual for Tidewater, right? What gets me is they are so selective, like the big man is pissed off at you and not your neighbor. Glad everyone is okay physically though. :D

My front plugs are always a bit darker too. I'd throw in a set of Champion RC12LYC's and run them for 100-200 miles or so, then take another reading. I've always run the RC12s in my stock Jeep 4.0 engines, but went down two heat ranges to RC10s because the RC12s were running a bit hot in my stroker, almost white. Your plugs sound like they may be too cold; try the Champs first to establish a baseline. Just my 4 cents. :cheers:

I hope its not a exhaust leak on the manny..... that would just suck!! I got the Bosch O2 sensor, I hoping thats not wrong with it either....... I kinda want it to be a injector,, so I have a reason to get the new ones that Taz hooked up for us.. :brows: How do the plugs look?

Cool. Just cut 'em off and solder (not crimp, solder has less voltage drop) some new female spade connectors on and you should be golden. :cheers:

Okay, so they are not burning up. The ballast resistor should read between 2-4 ohms. If that measurement's good, measure the voltage at the pump with the resistor in the circuit. Should be 9-11 volts. If the voltage is lower than that, you've probably got corrosion at the ballast resistor wire connectors causing excessive voltage drop, since it runs okay when you jumper out the resistor. Wouldn't hurt to do a fuel pressure test at the rail and change the fuel filter too. :cheers:

What are they doing, burning up? If you have a multimeter, disconnect one end of the ballast resistor and put your meter in series on the 10A (or higher) scale and start it up. This will tell you how many amps the pump is drawing. I'm guessing it should be no more than 10A draw.

Aye, how true matey. :cheers: Please let me how if this works JeepDoggy. The wife and daughter #1 just left for the PI this morning to see her sick mother in Manila. I get to stay home and take care of daughter #2. :cry:

You mean does 4-wheel disc limit the fkuid to the rear? No way -- a disc brake caliper requires a lot MORE fluid than a wheel cyinder for drum brakes. Also, disc brakes are not "servo assisted." Servo assist has to do with the way drum brake shoes are arranged. When you apply the brakes, the shoes try to rotate until they bind up against the pin, then they stop the drum. The geometry is set up so that in the forward direction they tend to draw the shoes into the drum harder. This is why the parking brake is more effective when you park nose downhill (forward) than when you park with the nose uphill (backward). My understanding is that ZJ and WJ systems for 4-wheel discs do not have any proportioning valve. In fact, I don't think any vehicles with 4-wheel discs have proportioning. So your WJ conversion might provide more braking to the rear than you want (as difficult as that may be to imagine after driving around with substandard brakes for awhile). Drive carefully when you first get it installed, and be mindful that the rear wheels may tend to lock up prematurely. Try some panic stops in an empty corner of a big parking lot and see how the brakes behave before you take it on the highway and forget about it. Most pickup trucks still use the height sensing valve which is a proportioning valve of sorts since it biases the rear brakes more under load. But the new ones are a far superior design to the MJ valves. Since mine was still working well I retained it. But I do plan to replace it with one from a Toyota pickup one of these days.......

Yes, the 7-slot definitely looks great, especially in chrome. :D Wish I could use one on my 91, but the grille styles changed in 91 and the upper molding strip was part of the grille and headlight doors instead of a separate piece.

Keep in touch regarding the WJ master/booster swap. Haven't done that one. All the yards here are closed on Saturdays. Some Southern Baptist thing I guess. I have to go out of the county just to get my brew..... :headpop:

Damn! Great deal! My 2-DR XJ Laredo seats alone were $75. :cheers:

Have you decided on which bumper you're gonna buy yet Chico? It really depends on how it's mounted and how it's constructed. There's a lot of them out there, some better than others. And tow hook brackets can be adapted to D-ring shackles too. :cheers:

But it looks nice! Ebay item # 320247285643

I used a 4-wire Bosch universal O2 sensor on mine since it was the only one I could find with a harness long enough. Been working fine for three years now.......

He's modified the brackets to use the rear through bolt. Here's a pic I took before bolting in the sway bar bushings. The front two bolts are the steering box box bolts, the rear goes through the "frame". The other side has two bolts through the frame.

Aye, that it is mate. The Aussies make the best beer in the world, IMNSHO. My favorite is Victoria Bitter; "Hey mate, gimme a VB". After living on that stuff for a couple on months it's hard to choke down the watered down American crap. :cheers:

One of the weirdest beers I ever had is a Belgian beer called Kwak. Tastes like there are bananas and liquorice in it. Had the stuff in Australia; the Aussies love it. It comes in a 1-liter tapered glass that fits only one way into a wooden cradle. The more you drink of these things the harder it is to get the glass back in the cradle w/o spilling it. Doesn't take too many either as the stuff is about 12% proof.

Actually there are three tie bolts per side that do go through the frame with backing plates for these brackets. And the drivers side bracket incorporates the steering box bolts. They are solid. One improvement would be to weld a piece of box channel across the front to tie the two brackets together. I think MJeff suggested that in a previous post.

I pulled one off my parts XJ, other wise I'd get the 136 amp (or whatever the number is) model. Gotta love free parts!! Yeah, that's correct. I stuck on a 136A from a ZJ; needed it to run the electric fans. Fits right in w. no grinding. Tight though..........

Mmm, might be a good time to upgrade your alt? You can never have too much available amps. :cheers:

Are you asking to resize an existing .gif pic, or converting from another format (like .jpg) into a .gif image?

Will I have to get these at the Stealership? Nearest is nearly an hour away depending on Traffic...#2 Usually, a parts house can cross the numbers and get the correct aftermarket replacement if that's what you want. My local Autozone got it right for me. :cheers:

OEM Sensor Part Numbers: Temp: 53005309 Oil: 53005218 superceded by 56026782