HOrnbrod

Yeah, I'm sure I got a bad one. During that time everyone was asking the parts houses to pull the rad out of the box to check the "Made in ??" label. I've read also that some of them from China came w. plastic tanks but were advertised as all metal. I ordered mine online and had no control over what they sent me. :oops:

Check to see if the vacuum line to the water control valve (inline w. the heater core hoses) is hooked up (item 5 in Taz's pic).

Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to1997 models ( 1984 to 1986 V6 models as well as 1998 to 2002 follow ) you have a way of reading for fault codes which can be accessed without any scanners like other models by reading how the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, on and off three times within 5 seconds ending in the on position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and hold ). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. This is how all codes end with is this 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12 though. Code Description Most likely reason 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.

I'm not trying to start an argument, really, just stating what happened to me. CSF radiators at the time were made in China and Mexico, among other places. The China-made rads were junk; the ones from Mexico were supposed to be okay. Found this out after that fact, and guess which one I got. I'm sure CSF has straightened this out long ago, but I'm stickin' with my aluminum rad. :cheers:

I put a CSF 3-core in my MJ about 2-1/2 years ago when I installed my stroker. The engine ran hot (220* - 225*) all the time w. the 195* factory stat. I called Hesco, they recommended pulling the CSF rad and putting in one of these single core aluminum rads: http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html The running temp immediately dropped immediately 10*-15* and stayed there. When I pulled the hoses to drain the CSF, big globs of solder came out. I shook out about a pound of solder balls out of it later. I send it back (my dime) and they refunded my $$ after I screamed, so no more CSF products for me. Maybe I just got a bad one and they've improved their QC now. I also remember a bunch of guys on NAXJA had similar problems at the time.

One of the things they do here is get a large rectangular concrete septic tank (preferrably unused :D ), saw a door hatch in one end, and either bury it in a hillside or mound dirt over it like an ammo bunker. They have a steel door and are vented of course. You see them all over the place.

Amen to that. Messy ugly useless trees. They also blow down easily. For $250 a tree, it's worth it by not having one fall on my head when the tornadoes come through. :eek:

I'm not saying every tree, just the big ones close to the house. There are plenty of good ol' boys in GA that can fall the trees where they want, cut them up, haul them away then sell them for firewood (the hardwoods that is). Most of them have a stump grinder too so when done you never know a tree used to be there. I had 14 big oak and gum trees near my house done here for roughly $250 apeice.

Pete, great looking place. I'm not too far away in N. AL and speak from experience. First thing to do is cut any tree down that can fall on any of the structures. Tornadoes are pretty frequent in this AO, and they seem to pick on vegitation close to the house. Rule of thumb is a 100' radius minimum around any structure. The homeowners insurance inspectors should also give a decent break on the annual premiums. Well worth the effort. Just my 2 cents.

The Mopar/AMC p/n is 83100066. 'Bout $85 from an OEM parts house.

LOL. Was going to ask why you used a chunk of soft-a$$ pine. Then went to view your trail pics, saw you were wheelin' up in the hills near the Springs? After many many trips to Petersen and the beautiful surrounding countryside, I can see why you used pine - there ain't nothing else up there. :cheers:

Measure across the pickups with an ohmeter for the internal resistance of the CPS (200 ohms + or - 75 ohms). This test is not a 100% guarantee that the CPS is good, but that's about all you can do on a bench test. Most of the time CPS problems are caused by corrosion at the connector since the internal coil resistance is so small.

Like Pete said, XJ pedestals, manual or power, do not work well in an MJ - too high. Best bet is to find a pair of junkyard pedestals from an MJ w. bucket seats - easy bolt-in using the XJ seats. The brackets from an MJ w. the bench seat will work too, you just will not be able slide the passenger bucket seat. Power seats are basically useless in an MJ. On the power windows, the two front doors will work on your MJ, just pull the complete door harness and cross body harness w. the doors and cut off the rear harness for the two rear doors. Cap off the wires of course. :eek: You'll just have to hook a 20A ing. switched circuit and a ground inside the left kick panel. But you will have a lot of unused window switches. :D

The shroud is designed to direct and pull the most air through the rad, so if part of it's missing, you're not getting the best efficiency (such as it is) of the mech fan. So I would say most definitely it effects cooling.

Is that a Dixie Stars and Bars flag on a Joisey truck?

For the 4.0's they are about $20 at the dealer; I just got one for the electric fan conversion. Here's a pic of the shroud (w. an electric fan in it). Image Not Found

Right on Patrick, although I know Eagle DID NOT mean to offend anyone. I to am an grande olde fart like he is, and attended the ceremony at Redstone today, to honor my fallen Navy comrades during the Nam era, and I will always do this, as long as I am able at the nearest military base. Hell man, we're all brothers. Peace.

Ouch - too high IMHO. I like Amazon too, but their free shipping is usually built into the selling price. I went down my list looking for NOS shocks on Ebay one by one, and found the Toy Land Cruiser rear set for $21 shipped. Didn't want to spend a lot of $ since I knew I would be lifting soon. Two years later I finally did.........then got OME shocks.

Here's the cross reference. I have had this list for ages, and do not remember who sent it; I think it was Gojeep (Marcus). When I first got my MJ I used it and picked up a set of new NOS Toyota Land Cruiser shocks on Ebay for cheap, and they worked perfectly, although a bit stiff. All the shocks on this page are supposed to have similar characteristics, i.e. mounting type and travel, for unlifted MJs.

There's a ton of shocks that will work on the MJ rear. I have a cross reference list in MSWord, but I can't post it, or can I?

What's not to like? Chrome mirrors and door handles would look great on that blue color of yours w. the silver roll bar and bumpers, and especially with your chrome grille and headlight doors. Plus chrome won't fade all out in that hot FL sun. :D :eek: :D

No those are the regulation fasteners. I replaced my old ratty hood pad and reused the originals. I've seen these fasteners at Lowes too. When you install the hood pad you have to drill out the swo steel rivets from the cross-hood rod bracket, them pop-rivet it back on. Image Not Found

Taz, I like #3 best too, but adding a set of chrome mirrors and door handles would make it even better. :D TNT, do the front 95/96 flares use the same mounting holes as the earlier flares?

Hey! That's my picture you dolled all up! But it looks much better now. :cheers: As far as the fan controller, I decided to use the Spal variable speed unit for my 2nd (main) electric cooling fan. It runs the fan either at low or high speed depending on the LOW/HIGH temps you program in yourself. Sensing is accomplised either with the existing sensor in the stat head, or the temp gauge sensor. I used the temp gauge sensor and it really works well, exactly as advertised.

Sure is. Team Cherokee has them: http://tinyurl.com/4wss8k