HOrnbrod

Yes, they are crazy expensive. I was lucky to get more than 75% off. :yes: Unfortunately the newer seat bottoms are entirely different, separate frame and pad. But the left and right sides are identical so they are swapable as I'm sure you know.

I tried those for my backup lights. Nice and bright, but they didn't last too long unfortunately. Less than a year.

I didn't know Kangaroo sold 93 octane. And of course there are always good octane booster additives around if you need. I have to burn at least 89 octane or it pings pretty good. CR is right at 9.00. Would love to have the Hesco alloy head...........

Hope she doesn't ping too bad for you. Going to use a bit thicker head gasket?

Yes.

No dog tax or licensing here. But if your dog bites someone, it's reported, and doggy's shots aren't up to date, you be in deep kimche.

Very cool Jim. :cheers: From New Hampshire? Still have the original flathead six?

:agree: The TV cable is responsible for telling the AW4 when to downshift in relation to the TPS. If you're sure the TV cable adjustment is correct, checking the TPS voltages is the next step. A bad MAP sensor can also cause similar symptoms, so check the vacuum connection and in/out voltages. These procedures are all HERE.

It went for $229.50. Anyone here get it?

http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/15577-mercedes-om617.html

That's looks correct ECU for the OBDI. Couple of things you can do: 1. Unplug the ECU 66-pin connector and check for any recessed, broken, and/or bent pins. Also douch out the connector and receptacle with some electrical contact cleaner before reconnecting. 2. There should be a white tag on the case edge. See if you can post all the numbers you find on it so we can determine if it is correct for your vehicle. Also, does the CEL illuminate when you turn on the ignition prior to starting? This is the dash light check and the CEL (as well as the other indicator lights) should all illuminate.

You assume it's an HO computer. Where is it mounted and what does it look like? A pic would be helpful. Don't assume anything if you did not do the HO conversion yourself.

I have no idea what system you have. Not a 95 HO OBDI it seems. Is the computer an HO? What does it look like and where is it mounted? And what's the IAS valve you replaced. :dunno:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

After a battery disconnect on any 91-95 OBDI HO (if this is what you have) it will idle low and run like crap until it's driven about 100 miles or so, sometimes more. When the battery is disconnected the ECU drops all it's stored memory settings and it must be driven quite awhile until the ECU "re-learns" the settings. Also, if you really have a 95 HO OBDI system, have you checked for fault codes using the ignition key?

They were not doing that when I got there Jim. Kwaj has to be one of the most corrosive places in the world. It makes the rust belt seem like a desert. Five years max for a vehicle and one year for a bike is the average lifespan. I finally wised up and got an all aluminum and stainless bike.

No entiendo............ :hmm: :dunno: :dunno: :hmm:

Be both. Keep the regulation Dana 44 and swap in Ford disk brakes. That's what I have. :yes:

If everything else looks good, the metal shavings are most likely from the clutch packs. They are expendable parts and normally start to deteriorate at 60K miles, less if the correct additive is not used. I had the same shavings in my used 90K+ mile D44 w. TrakLoc before rebuild/gear change and replaced the clutch packs. There is now an "aggressive" clutch pack kit (Dana Part #: 22937X) that's supposed to last longer, but I have no experience with it. Might be worth checking out since you'll need a new kit anyhow, si?