AeroNautical

Yeah, your right. Or an injector is held open during start. I ran a 9 volt through each injector while the rail was off to make sure it sprayed and didn't get stuck, and still worked perfectly. It's a rough start, too, vibrates like hell. Then it just magically fixes itself, haha.

FPR vacuum line is dry, nor does it smell like fuel. I pulled the rail with injectors attached, turned fuel pump on, and none are leaking at all.

Started at 38 PSI, waited 30 minutes, read 20 PSI. Pump off for the test. Bad injector?

Roger, next chance I get. I guess that would localize an injector leaking into the cylinder?

In 5 minutes with the pump off it drops to about 39 psi

I didn't know this, thanks. Next time it gives me issues, I'll try this and see if it alleviates it.

That must be what I'm thinking of, then. I have a 99 NP231, and never heard of an onboard pump. I learned something today, thanks.

I'm pretty certain the transfer case is a gear bath, not a pump, just like a manual transmission and differentials. No need to remove shafts. Your thinking of an automatic transmission, which does have oil pumps.

Not exactly. Like this: -starts and runs fine from cold, no matter how long you run it. -next start when hot, is too rich and stumbles, but give it some gas and in 10 seconds it corrects itself and runs fine I'm unfamiliar with the "flood clear" method, what do I do? Didn't think a fuel injection system could flood like that

Checked injectors, no leaks I can see or smell. Pressure at rail is correct, about 40 psi with the engine off. I'd think it wouldn't correct itself if it were leaking or low pressure, fuel delivery is good. As for the CPS, I've had no crank conditions on a heat soaked CPS, back when it was RENIX. It would just crank and crank, until it cooled enough to actually start. This starts every time, and with slight pressure on the gas pedal, stays on. Then after about 10 seconds, you can release the skinny pedal and it runs perfectly.

I'd say yes, everything in a manual drive line (except the engine) has a gear bath, so it should be fine.

This issue just started a few days ago. After the truck has been running awhile, and shut it off, if you turn it back on it will run incredibly rich, stumble and then die. BUT, after 10 seconds of that, giving a bit of gas, it runs perfectly smooth and fine. Truck details in my signature, and NO major changes or mods lately to have caused it. I thought at first it was vapor lock, so I got a heat shield kit for it. Also checked the fuel rail valve for liquid gas when the problem would happen. It's not vapor lock. All sensors are brand new due to the obd1 conversion I did over a year ago. Ran great until a few days ago. Ideas? Thanks. The heat shield I installed:

This is so damn cool, they all look like illustrated drawings too. Effort went into making these.

They haven't released numbers yet, but I'd venture to guess several hundred pounds lower. The Rubicon as it stands now tows 7000, I'd imagine with the diesel itd be 6k or even less, like the Overland. A diesel overland would probably put it in the 5k category. Not ideal, especially for the diesel premium pricing.

I can't believe it yet, but I am considering the Gladiator, among other trucks. The diesel, though Italian, looks like a good redesign of the EcoDiesel, and it'll be available this year. However, a problem with that is the diesel will actually reduce the tow capacity of the truck, because of a cooling issue. I have to read more into it, but those 480 ft/lbs of torque would be wasted at a lower tow rating.

This is an older thread, but I did end up fixing the issue. 24 pound mustang single port injectors did the trick. No backfiring, bogging or torque loss at all with these. I figured the volvo 4 ports would do the trick, but I was wrong. Good insight to anyone trying to do the same mods as me.

Oh man, I remember selling this TB to you years ago. So glad to see it's still being used. The TB was bored by Leigh Performance Machines, and when I ran it, I didn't have those issues, but that's not to say that little plug should be there. I figured he had put it there for some reason, and never really messed with it. Hopefully you figure out the issue, bud.

The injectors were recently taken off by me, and cleaned with pressurized sea foam and a 9 volt battery. They all work perfectly. I believe the TB bore size is 62mm. The O2 is new, replaced when I did the obd1 conversion, don’t remember the brand, about $70. That is a good idea on the adjustable map sensor, if that’s enough for a stroker guy to run an engine right, it ought to be enough for some stock mods. I’m also going to inquire about a tune, but chances are that it will be more money than it’s worth. Might even pull the valve cover off to make absolute sure I don’t have a sticking valve or cracked rocker. Thanks guys.

I’ve done some performance mods to my 98 high output 4.0 running a 93 obd1 wiring harness. The throttle body is bored, it has the horseshoe intake, volvo 4 port injectors, banks header with a zj cross pipe, newish catalytic converter, and high flow muffler. For mostly stock parts shes a torquey girl, but I’ve got some weird characteristics. She seems to lose power briefly when hitting the throttle hard at about 2-3k rpm. And she backfires on occasion when either engine braking or shifting (ax15), sometimes a “rumbling” backfire. These computers are adaptable, but maybe a tune is in order? Fuel rail reads correct pressure and no check engine. Maybe it just can’t supply enough fuel to the rail, causing a lean condition. Thing is, I would think the check engine light would show up due to a bad O2 reading. Thoughts?

I just did an OBD1 conversion on my MJ from a 93 XJ. I'd say the biggest change is the flywheel, be prepared to drop that transmission. It's easy work, but still a pain. Be sure to buy the shorter gear for the speedo as the electronic speedo pickup uses a different length. You've also got to weld on the bracket under the dash for the brake light switch to contact the pedal. I assume you have an adapted HO engine in your truck, otherwise there are a few engine sensors that won't work, such as the TPS and coolant temp/ air temp. Other than these things, it's a pretty straight forward swap. I'd also love to get my hands on that 92 fuel sender if you change your mind! haha

It's a luck of the draw often times, too. My buddy has an 08 Tacoma 4.0 v6 with 130,000 very well looked after miles with a rod about to throw. Shortly after replacing faulty factory driveshaft U-joints. I like my Japanese cars, some of the best made in the modern world, but I think he just got unlucky.

Awesome, thank you sir.

Reviving this old thread yet again. I need stock length rear shocks, I've looked these part numbers up and can't for the life of me find actual extended and compressed dimensions. Is there a bilstein shock for stock rears in our MJs?

I'm having the same issue with the front of the JCR sliders being pushed out pretty far compared to the rear. Was there a solution found or is this how they are supposed to be? Odd design choice if so..