jeepmj_tj

Truck was recovered this afternoon! Got to see the meth head being arrested. He joy rode it for a little bit and was intentionally trying to roll so he could scrap it I believe. It appeared he tried to drive it up a tree in order to roll it perhaps. Obvious damage is steering column, front fenders, rear quarter. Will need to inspect further. Thanks Joe

Tried to post a picture of it but I don't see that option. I put it on jeep comanche Facebook page

Haven't been on here in years, but my comanche was stolen from work over the weekend. its a 91 red long bed Pioneer. 4.0L auto. spring over leaf conversion in the front. D44 six lug, M20 rear axle. 35" all terrains. stolen from Clemson 4 Wheel center over the weekend, Seneca, SC. please keep an eye out. email to joem@clemson4wheel.com

what model, 1500, 2500... do you know what year?

here's a real short clip of me at Tellico on slickrock http://people.clemson.edu/~jmeader/4x4pics/MJslickrock.avi

http://people.clemson.edu/~jmeader/4x4pics/MJ%2520and%2520Trailer%2520001.jpe

search around on the net... parts mike or something like that, usually has pretty good deals on flat top knuckles with highsteer arms.. all machined ready to go.. I have a local guy that i got my knuckle and highsteer arm from plus he machined it for me.. like $185 but finding those knuckles around here are getting harder and harder to find.

you can just do cross over steering to save some cash. just use the stock waggy tie rod in stock location over the knuckle and just get a flat top and high steer arm for the pass. side.. thats what i did

has anyone figured out how to make this work. It would be real handy on certain posts that the title doesnt give enough details..

frame looks like it hangs down. They probably put the MJ body down onto another chassis.

Anyone into RC planes I have a complete setup with alot of extras they i may need to sell.

I had to redrill a new hole further back. It was roughly 1 inch further back and 1/2-3/4 closer to the bottom, if i recall currectly. Also it needs to be drilled offset so the front of the springs don't toe out. I used YJ lift springs and this allowed the tire to be somewhat centered in the wheelwell.

why not just put in a cherokee hand brake, and have the mj foot pedal control only the driver rear tire and the xj hand brake control the right rear.

dually tech http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/tech/index.php/1988_Comanche%2C_CA_1JTMR65FXJT056545

i had plans to tow with my longbed. the brakes on it work really well and the gearing is good. I have an extremely light eight trailer with tandom trailer brakes. I feel that it would tow my tj good enough going down the interstate. But would utterly suck towing up the mountain to Tellico. Its towing duties have changed since i just bought a totalled out 92 cummins with a good drivetrain. Now all i need to find a good longbed J truck. talk about a jeep tow rig.. I will deffiently post some pics of the final project.

whoes mj? http://www.migoffroad.com/gallery/fling2006?page=1 http://www.migoffroad.com/gallery/fling2006/conn4

Yeah its only going to get better with time. I took the truck down there back in May. lots of loose hill climbs with dirt and rocks, a few small rock gardens, mud pitts, flexy suspension test track. all kinds of goodies. i did have to keep an I on the long bed... some of the trails were tight but doable... i have video but not any pics.. but i don't have the means to compress the video for proper internet sizing... :headpop:

i gound the cast down to a smooth round profile. and welded a new spring perch on it. you may also have to redill a new hole in the webbing for the ubolt on the back side.

It depends on your spring width. how i mount my leafs, my spring width ended up being narrower than the stock waggy width. So when i mounted my new spring perch it had to sit closer so the diff. Thus required lots of grinding but it work out good in the end.

what front leafs are you going to use. who says leafs can't flex... :roll:

why do you feel like you need an SYE and double cardon rear DS? How much lift are you running. I'm running about 7 inches of lift with not vibes and stock DS. The only reason i would run an SYE would be for the HD Output shaft as the stock output is prone to bending. I would advise against the hackntap. and up for the stronger 32 plines HD ones. If you are having vibes now, then your pinion angle is off. It should be parallel with the angle of the T-case output.

how does the clip on the window come off. mine has always been broke.. but at the same since i can still lock it if need be..its not spring loaded in anymore cause half of it broke off. (before my time) i can push it over and it will catch in the indent and lock, but i have had to slide the window open numerous times for dumuss incidents on my part.:mad:

i made my rails out of 2x3 rect tubin. i attached them in four places one right behind the front control arm mount, one right before the rear spring mount and two in the middle. I used varing size angle iron(3" on one side and up to 6" on the other) and (3/16 or 1/4 thick) to make a base platform to weld my runners to. I welded the angle iron to the unibody rails where i wanted each runner. Each of those 4 runners attaches to each slider at different angles. Two actually slop down toward the sliders and two slop up toward the sliders. sort adds a little bit of triangulation so they are supported in both directions. I have had the full weight of the truck with both tires off the ground and they never pushed up any closer to the rocker. one other thing that i would do, is I plan to go ahead and plate the entire bottom of the unibody rail. I find that i hit and drag on it before I hit my sliders. Especially on larger rock ledges or boulders where the MJ break over angle sucks... hope that helps..

the chassis and drivetrain is from a Taimiya Bruiser. They came with a toyota hilux or chevy blazer body. Its amazing how scale they are. 3speed trannies/tcase.

try looking down on the back wall. mine leaks around the back window. for some reason there two holes in the body at the top two corners of the rear window that the rubber gasket covers up :nuts: it would run down in the open space in the back wall, run in under the carpet and fill up the floor board. only reason i found out it was leaking is because after a hot day, if i pulled out my rubber floor mats there would be condensation on the bottom. Currently my carpet is pulled out, awaiting to be spray lined, then ill section the carpet so i can take it in and out more easily.