Sir Sam

Side note. I was walking around the vertical lift fan on a F35 recently and noted the amount of lucas components on it. I had to chuckle slightly to myself about that, took a few pics of the lucas parts for posterity, I suppose I ought to get those uploaded so I can share them.

The interesting thing is how easy it makes it to convert from RHD to LHD. The pedals just need to be removed and mounted on the other side and some rectangles cut in the right spot on the opposite side. The steering column hole also doubles as the heater box airflow hole, so it already exists. Then you need to install a LHD steering box and knuckle, and source the opposite dash bits for install, install the LHD heater box. move parking break handle to other side of trans tunnel, installed LHD shifter or rebend exisiting. Surprisingly simple. I'm thinking about a LHD conversion with a AC install.

Vin plate is on the pedal box that the booster attaches to. This short video gives you can idea of the separate part that it is, but doesn't clearly show the tag which is mounted on the top:

Hopefully look good in more than just a driveway, next summer I want to get it out to Ouray and then Moab. I'm looking forward to recreating this photo with it: And getting some other sweet shots in Moab: Either a Peugot or Reanault diesel van. I'd say it looks that way too, but the tow standards in Europe are different. I think we have an overinflated sense of what we need to have for a tow vehicle here in the US. People tow with much less vehicle in Europe and are just as safe. Some say its better european roads, some say its better driving education. I'd say its some of both with a big helping of inflated American towing standards. Somehow we let the OEMs convince us we needed a 3500 dually diesel to tow a 5k trailer. Also not surprising is how much money the OEMs make off of trucks compared to everything else. The KJ CRD is rated at 5k lbs towing in the US, or 7k lbs in europe. Same vehicle, same towing equipment. Solid axles and a huge range of years of parts that fit it. For example this rust repair panel fits 1959-2006, and the only reason it doesn't fit after 2006 is that the vents vent away and became solid for a newer style dash. https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=CHAS34&type=0&eq=&key=it 3.54 is stock, I assume this one is stock, but I'll find out. 4.10s would help for sure. No idea how much it costs to regear. The rear end is a Salisbury, which is basically a metric Dana 60. But I don't know if that means I can use a regular Dana 60 R&P or not. The answers are out there in a search somewhere. I'm trying to come up with my list of stuff that I should do, part of that might be ARB lockers and regear. I'm also looking at some stock alloy wheels. Replacing a couple of door skins, and the back window isn't glass so I will try and pickup a window while I am in the UK. Already has a rear diff skid and that front bash plate. Who knows what else I might get up to with it. Plan is to keep it for a little while, take it wheeling and camping a bit, do some value added work on it, and then resell it. Then repeat the process all over again looking for another one to import.

As seen here on google street view: https://goo.gl/maps/WUc9iKrtoXr Vin plate on brake booster, matches vin on frame, which is important to be able to show for import: 2.5L Turbo Diesel with direct injection and intercooler, still not very powerful, my CRD KJ will run circles around this thing, oh well.

Try the CRD section, its more active and has more owners who actually wrench: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=5

Get the autozone alternator, lifetime warantee, and around here autozone keeps one in stock.

Pete the fuel filter is a good place to start, but I would really recommend the cummins in tank lift pump and modified OEM wiring harness. Aint nothing like a clean OEM install other than using OEM parts and making it like it should have been from the factory. You need cummins lift pump and some wires to add your your existing harness.

The autel I posted will read, trend, and save live data from all the sensors, including all 3 or 4 wheel speed sensors. It also reads from all the little modules like the ocm, rain sensor, etc.

This one works well for all the modules on the CRD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090B7M2O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My $50 harbor frieght unit also works fine on the CRD. My $20 wifi code reader also works fine.

Got Ruby emissions tested and plated, loaded an 811 stage one tune, and reinstalled the stock wheels for the ~3000 or so highway miles it will see between CO to CA to CO. Got a few pics before I took the big wheels off. Next time it is back in CO I will work on the pinch seams since they eat into the tires, and hopefully get a few other things like the rock rails installed, LED foglights added, steering wheel radio buttons, and roof rack cross bars.

pete you need a better code reader I think, even basic ones will work, I use a wifi one with my iphone.

Deleting abs from a CRD is possible and requires the DTC table to be modified to delete the abs code. Pete, seems like a guessing game without reading any codes. Are you sure you are having no air in fuel issues?

Been there done that too:

99 should be the correct year cutoff, also if you get the wrong ones the cruise light won’t turn on. It’s possible the left switch is good but the right switch is bad, check that you can measure resistance through the right switch and that the resistance changes when you press the buttons. Verify that you can read resistance through the plug to the left switch and that resistance changes when you press on off. I don't have the resistance values offhand but you can see the resistor color codes on the back of the switch as well. You might have somehow gotten a 98 right switch, not likely but possible.

I think down an oil return hole to the oil pan. Nowhere I can see, the grooves cast into the oil pan mean it will stay there until someone pulls the pan. The pickup tube has a screen strainer so its so it’s not like they will ever get sucked into the oil pump. Ill drain the oil and see if anything comes out, but I sort of doubt it will.

Ok, so the plural of these projects is this one I picked up from this thread: Its about 10 hours each way, I left work at 3:30 pm on thursday, took friday off, and got back at 9pm friday evening. Got about 25mpg on the way out, about 16-17 on the way back, not bad considering I was towing at 75mph. Lots of corn, going further north there are sunflowers, soy, potatoes, wheat, grass.......most of my drive was not on interstate, and actually fairly interesting considering where I was driving. Pheasant SD: Getting a sandwich: More sunflowers: Home: Got parts on saturday at a local junkyard, intercooler was just full of oil, and had some stress leaks: This was after draining a quart or so, and rinsing with a gallon of gasoline, I let it sit overnight with the inlet down to drain more, think I finally got the bulk of it out: Got it back together enough for now: "they circled the problem....lolz am i right?" After that I got back into working on the red one, I got a spring compressor setup and got the old keeper out. Turns out half the keeper was missing and the other half split in half, making 1/4s. I replaced it with 2 spare keepers and a spring retainer. The grooves in the valve for the keeper looked perfect, so I don't feel the need to replace the valve. It was made out of a random bit of strap steel that had previously been my VW van alternator bracket!

If you can buy it, drag it out of the field, and advertise it nationally you will likely find someone who wants it as a project. They are pretty rare, and a restorable body is worth something to someone. If its a super duper rusty POS then likely won’t have much value except for parts, maybe $1000? Missing a bunch of glass ETC will drive down the value quick.

I got the rockers off and head cleaned up a bit, looks like on #2 cylinder, which was the problem cylinder, there is a valve that is missing a keeper. I can see one keeper, but the keeper cap isn't sitting right and the top of the valve has worn. I need to make some sort leverage bar with a U shaped end to compress the spring so I can get the keeper out. If the valve end looks good where the keeper rings are I can replace the keeper(s) and cap with spares I have here. It the valve end looks damaged I will need to pull the head to replace the valve.

Krusty these are the rock rails I have, another guy local to me has a set very similar that i think were made by rock lizard. I don't really have any good photos of them installed since I took them off of a jeep I was flipping, but they interfered with the plastic cladded on the rockers it seems like: With it removed there are some little holes the plastic clips went into. Overall I think its nicer without the plastic cladding like the 02-04 had.

I have an arc welder, I'm so @#$%ing over it. I think I'm going to go drop a grand and get a good welder for a change. The newer hobarts look good, and come with a gun for aluminum welding.

Crap I typed up a reply this morning but must have forgot to submit. The frames are the same, grill, bumper etc are different, if you look at the ARB bumper for the KJ it was designed for the 2002, it will fit the 05+ plus, but it blocks the fogs and there is an odd gap to the flares. The sides are the same, but the 05+ has a plastic cover over the rockers, where the 2002 just as the metal rocker. I have a set of rock rails and the clearance with the plastic rocker covers can be an issue. Pulled the intake off, looks like a really messed up set of rockers, this is what happens when you used the oil Jeep recommended(mobile 0-40) instead of a good diesel 15-40(like the engine manufacturer recommended), and have EGR active. EGR is basically the death of these things. My Jeep with 155k, same miles as this one, had ZERO rocker wear with the EGR off and 15-40 Delo diesel oil.

My efan died when I was driving to pickup a CRD in houston. After having the efan and/or the mechanical clutch die I can solidly say the CRD KJ needs both the efan and mechanical fan working correctly to cool properly. Today while towing another CRD on a uhaul dolly, at about 95F, at 5k+ feet, i had some long hills that got the Jeep off of centerline on the temp gauge. Of course this was with AC on and driving 80 mph, so its not totally unexpected.

Possible, however the next most likey issue is a bad rocker or two. The rockers are a designed failure point, since this is an interference engine if the belt slips or breaks the valves hit the pistons and the rockers break. However with heavy EGR use the bearings in the rocker rollers tend to wear out and collapse, sometimes spectacularly. This can cause an engine to actually backfire out the intake in very bad manner. I am thinking this engine has some bad rockers on #2 cylinder. In which case it will get new ARP head studs, rockers, and a timing belt job, as well as a ECU tune to delete the EGR - should be bullet proof for the next 100k untill it need a belt, and for the rest of its life with those engine mods. I've been running the EGR delete on my daily driver CRD for 12 years and my rockers have ZERO wear, but i also used 15-40 when jeep called for 0-40.....which was way too thin.

My dad decided he wanted to pickup a CRD as a daily driver for LA. kind of funny since I had about the perfect one a little while back as a flip that we just sold anyway. So now here we are, I was looking at a couple of options. I looked at this red one thursday night but we couldn't agree on price. My dad talked direct with him but he thought he had a guy lined up to go pay full price if we didnt want it. Surprise craigslist people are full of ****! He and my dad worked out the price and I went down today to pickup the Jeep. 2005 KJ CRD, 153k miles. 2.5" OME lift, 265/70/16 good year duratracs on some black wheels. Very clean, I like the color, somehow missing the front skid?????? and I got it with the stock wheels with almost new Michelin tires. Rented a uhaul tow dolly and drive out to eastern CO to pick it up: Got to troubleshooting, not running on cyl #2, swapped injectors with MJ, still not running, swapped injectors with #1, still not firing, checked wiring continuity - good. Swapped ECUs, no change. So it seems its fuel, lots of diesel around, but its not igniting, next up is a compression test.