Gjeep
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Everything posted by Gjeep
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Yes it really is running that hot, but I shut it down and let it cool often. Apparently these strokers run hot few thousand miles according to Hornbrod.
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Also should mention I am running the super beefy Brown Dog motor mounts with factory motor mounts AND a Rusty's 1" drop crossmember. I've never run one of these before. Any chance That's somehow causing issue with the transmission back plate? I guess my first order to do in the morning is peek into/ under the backing plate and start by shimming the lower self tapping bolts with a washer or two. Then swap out the crossmember with a factory one?
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I was thinking that as a possibility. All components were torqued to spec, don't see how it would rub on backing plate? Same backplate I ran before and bellhousing too. Going to dread needing to pull the trans if that's the case.
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Here's a video...no idea why it's displayed sideways. Anyway, see if you can figure out the sound. Many thanks. IMG_1099.MOV
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I've had a build going for several months. Finally got it on the road...Test drive was a flop unfortunately... in motion the truck had a screeching/ scraping sound at load (when driving). Didn't want to take it above 25-30mph. Though the belt may have been the belt at first, but I could rev the motor when parked to 3500 rpm for 5 mins with no noises. Under load seems to be when the noise happens above 7-10mph. Any ideas? Mind you it's new everything engine, trans, transfer case, bearings on wheels front and rear, new pinion yokes front and rear -- there were no crush sleeve shims only a large washer and torqued to spec. Don't see anything dragging for the brakes front or rear, they're not over heating. Have no idea... Idea's? 1992 MJ short bed - Hesco Stroker, Edelbrock head, Borla header, AX15, NP231 D30/ D44, OME 934's, Metric Ton leafs, 31's
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Test drive was a flop unfortunately... in motion the truck had a screeching/ scraping sound at load (when driving). Didn't want to take it above 25-30mph. Though the belt may have been the belt at first, but I could rev the motor when parked to 3500 rpm for 5 mins with no noises. Under load seems to be when the noise happens above 7-10mph. Any ideas? Mind you it's new everything engine, trans, transfer case, bearings on wheels front and rear, new pinion yokes front and rear -- there were no crush sleeve shims only a large washer and torqued to spec. Don't see anything dragging for the brakes front or rear, they're not over heating. Have no idea... Idea's?
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I forgot to mention I'll be driving it within a plastic bubble.
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Hate to say it, but my guess is this one will end up at the pick n pull that's just down the street from where that truck is located...
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A Street Comanche for sale about an hour from me. From the looks of it (and all the other cars, house, etc in the photo) it's been sitting for a good decade. Not bad though. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/ford-explorer-and-jeep/6748553974.html
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Driveshaft installed. Believe it or not there's only a hair over 1" of play between the tip of the yoke and transfer case oil slinger cap. It looks like the driveshaft is barely hanging on the input shaft, but it's not. Got to get use to how this looks... Putting on old rims/ tires this weekend to take it around the block.
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Great looking MJ!
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Dual OEM Aux Fan Installation, Part 2...An alternative.
Gjeep replied to Gjeep's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Just to update, I scrapped the relay/ coolant temp switch set up for a SPAL controller (same as Hornbrod's). Only difference will be I am going to run both the primary and secondary fan off the SPAL controller. Will program the fan's to come on in both low and high temperature settings. -
Would be blinding...
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Got the nose back on, cut the winch fairlead holes in the front bumper (chrome polished the bumper al la Hornbrod) and test fit the assembly of fairlead, winch hook anchor, and flip-up front license plate bracket...New Woods driveshaft painted and currently drying. Interior side there is much to do and reassemble.
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For now, I've set the SPAL to 170* low and 200* high. I've done this because when I idle in the garage, I creep toward 260* after about 4 mins from a cold start. I'm guessing when the MJ is actually in motion I can adjust these up a bit. Will see how it goes.
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With an eye towards driving this truck around the block this weekend...Been playing with parking brake adjustment, and transfer case linkage as I wait for the Tom Woods driveshaft to arrive Wednesday this week. My original (Woods) driveshaft I had built when I converted to 4wd/ Dana 44 many years back is about an inch too long because the newer style NP231 case has a sealed end with a slinger/lip on it (for the yoke boot to attach to). Also, finally got the primary fan working with the SPAL controller having low and high temperature on/off settings. Finally, I'm replacing the MJ/XJ style transfer case shifter with a straight arm shifter with YJ ball knob so to match my Hurst short throw arm/YJ knob combo.
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I've built something along these lines. Drilled a hole in the side of the MJ tailgate handle for the power actuator arm to slide into. Metal plate with 3 holes is sandwiched between tailgate and tailgate handle. Ties in to the power door lock wires. I don't have it installed yet but have test fit and wired the power. Works well.
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That’s a knock-off/ clone chief.
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https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ptd/d/1988-jeep-comanche-for-parts/6731557992.html
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I want to make sure before I install the transfer case linkage what position the arm of the transfer case needs to be in when in 2wd. See internet photo reference below. Is the arm all the way forward (towards the front of the truck) or all the way backwards (towards the rear of the truck)? Again, I'm looking for the 2wd position for the arm. Thanks
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Got a few things done this weekend...mainly detail items. Replaced front and rear differential pinions seals and yoke ends-- updating to the stronger driveshaft u-bolt style straps. Re-routed, consolidated, and wire loomed the front end wiring harness. Further trimmed the revised lower alternator bracket to work with the Nations 180A alternator. Torqued front and rear suspension to spec. Replaced the D44 Teraflex rear brake calipers with OEM 1995 Ford Explorer units. (Unfortunately I don't have a comparison photo between the Teraflex and Ford calipers, so I pulled an image from the internet to give you an idea. My Teraflex bleeders were leaky, and I just overall did not like the design as they were 1/2" taller and much squarer than the Ford units they were designed around). Finally bled the brake system once the calipers were installed (no leaks this time!). Need to get the transfer case linkage and remainder of the exhaust system installed, in addition to hanging the driveshafts...Test all revised electrical items that I installed through the PDC box and then get to putting the interior back together for a test drive. (I have plans to go through the interior as well thereafter-- updating to 97+ XJ style windows, new speakers and radio unit, removing the carpet and seam-sealing the uni-body panels to prevent water from sneaking in during the (seldom) rainy days. (When I sealed the floorboard on my '89 MJ, I was surprised to see that the seam sealer dripped some on the garage floor...meaning the unibody floorboard panels had some decent gaps...And my '89 did not come from an abusive prior owner).
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'90 is the change-over year. These have short visors.
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I know we have some good alternatives/ options now, but was surprised to see a NOS set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-JEEP-COMMANCHE-CHEROKEE-CJ-INTERIOR-LIGHTS-WITH-CHROME-BEZELS-NOS/132825392459?hash=item1eed02a54b:g:VzgAAOSwwHpbVUAD&vxp=mtr Note: This must be a very early version of the light as the electrical connector that is needed is nothing like I've seen on even the '86 MJ I had briefly. Possibly this light was used on something else? Possibly something Renault?
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I installed new 95 XJ A/C parts as that year (well, 94 1/2) was the first year of R134a. Not sure where you are located but that was best for me in California since freon is non-existent. Straight forward exchange of parts and the only modification was the electrical connector plug on the drier. Colors on the wiring were the same however.
