wooky48

EUREKA :cheers: , First place I went to had an aluminum cover (thanks Jeepco, "metal" was just a shorter spelling ;) ), we almost tripped over it on the way to look at one in the back (which had a plastic cover). Now for the "plumbing" differences, the original has a PCV and hose going to the base of the throttle plate (TBI) and a hose from the airbox to the cover. The new aluminum one has a hose nipple on the side instead of PCV hole. Should I just run a hose to the TB base and leave out the PCV or.........?? There is a plugged fitting on the intake which one leg of it goes to the EGR. The airbox line will just need a minor mod to reach it's fitting. Jeepco, the 2nd pic you posted shows the nipple location clearly.

Thanks for the replies Jeepco and mjtjnj . I was hoping for a metal replacement, don't know why they went with plastic :nuts: but oh well. I'll look for one around here (JY, online, local Jeep dealer)

Yea, good thing mine is painted black :brows:

Benz?? The pic in the thread of the chrome Benz

The first time I saw the bug I thought I'd have to call to get rid of ants THEN realized it wasn't real......lol. Nice Benz but you'd better be wearing shades to look at it 8)

Yup, I should've.......left that leak alone on that ****** valve cover!! :mad: Now after replacing the gasket and it leaking worse, then MAKING another gasket out of material that I've NEVER had a leak with, :headpop: oil is pouring out the drivers side of the cover. To make matters even worse the valve cover is crumbling around the sealing edge including the bolt holes (probably why new gasket wouldn't seal). Did they ever make a cover out of metal for the ('89) 4 cylinder? Is there aftermarket new replacements available? Possible repairs (epoxy?) to this cover? I don't care what the end result would LOOK like just the function.

In the "I forgot to mention" category :brows: .....I don't have power steering so running it wouldn't matter, talk about a "base" truck :nuts: no A/C either. I'll grab my neighbor tomorrow and have him turn the wheel, thanks.

There isn't much if any play in the wheel, doesn't pull either way but to go straight the wheel has to be at the 10:30 to 11 oclock position. Front end clunks when hitting bumps at slow speed or turning corners and bump is hit (not noticeable at highway speed). Oh, one more item, turns tighter to the right. Maybe inner fender was wrong description, down by frame rail where the sway bar link is mounted

Yea maddzz, now we're cookin' :bowdown: , that's exactly what I have. I just want to get the right parts before I tear it down (with a real shade tree as a garage) I like to finish what I start the same day if at all possible. Now for track bar answers ;) The axle is/has shifted to the right (passenger side) about an inch or so (can tell by the tires) and the sway bar on drivers side has been rubbing against the inner fender a little. I need to get this fixed soon (sway bar rubber to be replaced as well). Oh, BTW, a mechanic at work looked at it today and said the ball joints and tie rods are ok, just all the rubber needs changing.

Oh ok, I gotcha now, but since mine is 2WD (straight axle with no diff chunk) I have that same type mount on both sides, I'll have to be careful. There IS a second bushing at the rear of the arms, correct ?

Ok, I guess I'll have to crawl under there again and look. The arms pivot up and down, no? What are they pivoting on/in, thats what I thought the bushing was for??

Thanks maddzz, Ok, since I don't go puddle jumping with it and it is 2WD I can, in theory, use the 4WD upper bushings then. To prevent the bracket from bending I'd take the front off first (at the axle) since I don't have any special/fancy tool? I've never had anything with arms like this before (Jeep trademark perhaps) and want to do it as right as I can but leave it basically stock.

I've done a search and can't seem to find the answer. A stock '89 MJ, 2WD, 2.5 4cylinder, upper and lower control arm bushings. At the local Parts Palace they only show the lower bushings (for both 2 and 4WD) and upper for 4WD only, my question, on the 2WD are the uppers and lowers the same bushing ? If not will the ones for the 4WD fit. Another question while I'm thinking about it, they also show 2 different bushings for the track bar, a 1 piece and a 2 piece, will either of them fit (I read somewhere here that the stock track bar has no serviceable parts). :dunno: :bowdown: Thanks for all the help so far with my truck, it is an excellent running Jeep and the gas mileage is outstanding so far, back and forth to work (15 miles one way) for a week with some errand running as well on just less than a full tank

The valve and lever on mine is in place and hooked up. How do I know if it's working correctly? :hmm: Sometimes it feels as if the rear brakes are pulling more than the front, other times it feels "normal". As was said before, if it's working don't't fix it :brows:

Well............did they let ya see it ?? :hmm: Don't leave us hanging.

No prob on the ID. You didn't say whether you had a carb or TBI (fuel injection), I can't remember the year that they changed over. With TBI you won't need a timing light as the computer does all that, you just have to get the right cog on the distributor lined up, it'll either run good or like crap (if at all).

Umm, this isn't Pete :brows: First and foremost if the valves aren't in time (marks lining up together) the rest of it is a waste of time (no pun intended ;) ) After the valves are in time with the crank then bring #1 up to TDC and set the distributor and rotor from there. to get the ignition in time.

When you say rotor you are meaning the distributor, it won't work anyway if the valves aren't in time ( marks on crank and cam sprockets have to be lined up). Get that right first then get the motor at TDC before you think about where the rotor is pointing

Whether you use cork or rubber, may I also suggest using a dab or two of Hylomar sealant (by Permatex), this stuff works better (IMHO) than anything else I've ever used , oh, and it doesn't take much either. Let me add this, Hylomar is a sealant not a glue. If you ever have to take the thing apart again, just carefully peel the (rubber) gasket off, also it gives you plenty of time to set it in place and/or make small adjustments because it does not "skin" or cure. Hylomar was recommended for a timing/front cover leak repair on my car, the cover has no gasket where it sits against the head and has a rubber seal along the bottom edge that is notorious for slipping out of the groove when assembling, so far a year later no leaks at all on the cover. I have found however that it does not hold up at all in situations with gasoline or antifreeze. Good for sealing gaskets and "O" rings.

I don't know about "rare" but here is a rough count in and around east Atlanta, 1 red one in a JY, 2 my white one, 3 another white one in Conyers, 4 black and 5 blue ones in Covington, 6 green one in Tucker, 7 another red one downtown, 8 another black one passed my house. And sure I probably have missed a few here and there.

A SALUTE to both daughters hornbrod. I also know where ya are coming from, my son is a Navy Medic and studying to get a degree, become an officer, and attend Navy Med School. I feel it would be rather funny to call my son "Sir".....

Back in high school (mid 70's) I had a "modern" history teacher :brows: who let me borrow a George Carlin album, man was he funny by provoking a different :nuts: way of looking at things that most, if not all, of us experience every day. George, where ever you ended up RIP (but we all know that won't happen with brand new material to spread there)

They pretty much ignored the fact that the part made wrong adn just said due to the age of the vehicle there was nothing they could do. They completely missed the fact that i was pointing out a potentially dangerous error on their part and that I in no way ever mentioned anything about them fixing my valve. Sounds like they are sidestepping a potential recall issue due to the bottom line and not worried about the safety of those still on the road, IMHO. I'm going to have to study whats here and see if I can finger out why I only have rear brakes, I didn't know about the height/weight sensor rod and will have to see if mine still has it and if it's hooked up.

I inherited a broken shift knob as well, now using a golf ball that ironically came off of the shifter of a junk riding lawnmower :nuts: hey, it works :brows: .

That's what I used/did, kinda a PITA getting a good grip but it worked, replaced the TORX with regular bolts, no problem