wooky48

That might explain why 3 fuses on the top of mine were melted (looked like an overload though), I now have tail, stop, park lights but nothing in the cluster (not even the idiot lights) except for turn indicators and high beam, and yes the clutch master is fairly new. How difficult would it be to replace the fuse panel and would it be worth the trouble?

"There's only two things we require from this man, that he speak the language and be able to fly a plane like the devil himself" :nuts: "Let's see what this thing can do"

The A-Team, can't remember the characters name, George Peppard played. Colonel Hannibal Smith. Yup, that's him

Well then, I AM in the right place :nuts: Oh, I fixed AT it, not quite done yet, valve cover gasket, injector cleaner, then gotta get the lights working :eek: :shake:

The A-Team, can't remember the characters name, George Peppard played. Idle is much improved but has a "lope" in it and strong exhaust smell, running rich perhaps (the truck sat for almost 2 years) and with what I've had to "re-repair" so far..... Can of injector cleaner in the tank I think might help.

Thanks for everyones help, :bowdown: the distributor is now set, #1 firing on #1 cap post and a noticeable improvement in the idle (yes it was 180 and one tooth off). I've never messed with distributors til now and was simply going by the book I have here (and they don't tell you everything)

I thought for a minute I was losing it :nuts: no I don't recall asking about the test for the TDC sensor (I checked the posts) no point in testing something that you know works. Just got home and fixin' to go get a bit greasy and see if we can fix this thing while I have a bit more daylight.

Ok everyone, I flipped through the repair book I have here again (when all else fails.....), I see what was meant by the term "phase". Gonna R/R the distributor tomorrow afternoon. I am better at being a parts changer than a mechanic (yes there is a difference :wrench: )(and yes, I work on my vehicles under a shade tree :nuts: ) Eagle, I didn't see anything in the book about a cam sensor for any of the engines, but then again I have 2 books on my sterndrive and there are some things covered in one that isn't covered in the other. Thanks to the fresh insight and input from all who responded On the 4 cylinder at #1 TDC the rotor should point straight away from the block when the distributor is fully seated. What I observed the other day is that yes it is off by a tooth or two. The engine should run smooth as glass when I'm done tomorrow, I'll let yall know.

Camshaft position sensor, :???: I have no idea. When I moved the wires I was just wanting to see if the run of the engine would be better (hard start issue) and it did fire right up but with the rough idle which improved slightly when I took the vacuum hose off

I have the old rotor in front of me and the new one is identical (I always check parts before installing). The actual "tip" is about 3/4 inch long. When I changed everything out the other day #1 plug was hooked to #1 (marked) cap post, then 3, 4, and 2 to their respective plugs, nothing fired, after rechecking TDC, #1 plug was "firing" at #4 cap post, hence 180 out. Changed the wires to a 4213 configuration, it started right up but with a real rough idle, even after 10 minutes of running.

Not sure what you mean by "phasing", I thought that at TDC the rotor should be lined up with #1 wire post on the cap since the computer takes care of all engine functions.

Surprisingly enough the engine ran smooth just before the tune up parts were installed, when I could get it started. The reason for the fine toothed comb is from so many items needing attention, new PCV with no hose hooked to it, smashed air box (no filter), obvious exhaust leak at the manifolds. PO parked it, from my understanding, due to the hard starting. I'll borrow a compression tester from a guy at work and let you know.

That sound like just what I need to rehang the "Comanche" emblem back on the fender, thanks yall.

Going over my "new" '89 MJ with a fine tooth comb 8) I've put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and intake/exhaust gasket (among several other things). While doing all that I found the distributor to be 180 out. It'll start right up but idles rough as hell and no power riding around the yard (vacuum lines checked), if I take off the vacuum line that runs over to the passenger side of the engine bay (other line at this port goes to EGR) the idle smooths out just a bit, removing EGR line has no effect. I was planning on resetting the distributor anyway (so nobody else loses hair), could the rough idle be from it being a tooth off? (PO obviously wasn't too mechanically inclined). I know (from the book and here) that the timing is not adjustable (TBI). :bowdown: Thanks in advance for any second opinions on this

"And the answer's yes, you fight for me and ya get to kill the English" :thumbsup: "Excellent, Steven's my name, I'm the most wanted man on my island, only, I'm not ON my island" :nuts:

And that is pronounced "Mayretta" btw ;)

Gaskets are on, was a bit easier to do than I figured. Replaced a couple of vacuum hoses that had holes worn in them (hard plastic lines). It still has a rough idle though, thinking that the timing may be off a wee bit (book says not adjustable w/ TBI). Can someone help me out here with this issue? The rotor/distributor is 180 out from where it should be, I'll tinker some more this week after work.

A belt you say, I guess we were special kids then, MY parents had a Board Of Education :eek: , I don't know what kind of wood it is made of but my sister has it at her house. The only damage to this Board is that the paint has worn off of it but "BOE" can still be read on it.

"Let's go check out the Maternity Ward, I know those chicks put out" "Some people say chicken, some say fish, I say NOW IS THE TIME FOR COW"

Animal Mother, Full Metal Jacket

A set of air horns tend to get some attention (scare the crap outta them :eek: ), too bad they don't make nerf bars for a dump truck (sure would be fun to play bumper car for real....lol)

Sure thing onebigmj, and while I'm doing this today I'll be checking all the vaccuum hoses as well.

If I didn't have a jake I would be in trouble or just have to crawl down the road but then, I wouldn't get much done each day either. '05 Mack Granite with an automatic 6 speed. Oh, and I run with all my lights on so they can't say that they couldn't see me. By wooky

Greetings everyone, I thought I'd introduce myself officially :waving: now that (hopefully) I have an image host for pics. I bought an '89 MJ for my birthday this month, needing an economical hauler is but one reason. My SporTruck has the 4 cylinder 4 speed. I have done a lot of work to it getting it ready to hit the road but still have a ways to go. I've already corrected "repairs" from a deer hit including an air filter box, straightening up the inner fender metal so that the fender and grill could be mounted correctly, also while I had em off I painted the fender, door, and header panel . Tune up completed (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) but it still idled rough and further checking found a loose (only 4 bolts holding it) intake/exhaust, someone (PO :nuts: ) had no clue or didn't give a dayumm on how this truck was running. New intake and TBI gaskets are going on tomorrow and I'll get some new pics then. I got it from a good friend who is selling it for his nephew. Still, I think it's a good deal for $700 plus what I've put into it so far (doesn't smoke and no knocks and drove it 15 miles down here to my house at highway speeds)

Deep Throat,,, everybody knows that........ Too easy huh? Let me dig deeper..... :D