streetjeep2.5

The guy I got the engine from said it was making a knocking noise so the shut it off. Found out why last night: Note the gap: Image Not Found Look closely to the left bottom of the rod cap and you see squeezed bearing. Image Not Found Number one rod was about to smack the block! Have to see if there is any other damage from the metal in the pan

On mine I kinda look at it like this: After 330,000 miles and yes, two engine overhuals but same rear end and tranny, my MJ deserves to continue to live the best life it can, even if it means something different than a 2.5 or 4.0 powering it. It means work, but that's fine.

Found at a place called Artichoke Annies just east of Columbia, Missouri. 65.00 Address and phone: 1781 Lindberg Dr Columbia, MO 65201 (573) 474-2056 Booth B6 Image Not Found

My toys. They really are! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Mike: If you intended to still use your swapped in AMC V8 for I daily driver, thought I would throw this in off of Novak's website since with my sbc daily driver swap I am going to keep my current rear axle: The Various Myths vs. Actual Observations of Powertrain Swaps into Jeeps 1. "My axles are not strong enough for a V6 / V8." Not usually true. Your Jeep axles may not be strong enough for your seriously oversized tires, or a totally untrained throttle foot, but the engine itself with good driving on most terrain will not require axle changes.

That's what I thought also when I pulled the head on the rustiest cylinder side. Did it first. But when I saw the other one that wasn't as bad, I wondered if both, or at least it, was from sitting so long. I took a quick look at the gasket and it didn't seem blown, but I will look closer when I have the chance.

Did websearch for nerf bars, and what I used to know as nerf bars ain't no mo!!

Ok! If its pics you want! :D Went in the garage before heading to the office, pulled it out of the corner and lifted everything off just for you! :cheers: The valley with bee larva dirt pulled out of one head intake port :eek: Image Not Found The heads: Image Not Found Image Not Found The cyl's Image Not Found Image Not Found the two rusty cyls: Image Not Found Image Not Found tucked away in the garage corner again: Image Not Found

Hey! What about a couple of slots to put some Nerf Bars on! :brows: Or, attach a couple of rubber bumpers.

Pulled the heads. surface rust in a couple of cylinders. LOTSA carbon build up. Must have been running very rich. No evidence of burnt valves. All else looks good. Will need bored. Slight but uniform ridge in each cyl. Oil left in the pan was goo, and a little bit of clear water came out first. Pan off next.

Radiator specialists or those with sbc's in their manche/cherokee!!! I'm working toward a chev 327 in my manche (Project streetjeep at viewtopic.php?f=7&t=28786). I am researching radiators. :dunce: I will go with Novak mounts at this point especially because they allow movement, and probably their headers, etc. They seem to have done a lot more research. But for the radiator I would like to not pay 500 if I don't have to. Reading up on cooling I found http://www.4wd.com/jeep-advisors/cooling-system.aspx where they discuss measuring cooling surface by length x height x thickness and discuss fins per inch for heat dissipation plus discuss material. My question for you radiator specialists and sbc's in jeep members :smart: is this: what about an all metal 2 row 4.0 radiator (I am assuming copper) listed as heavy duty and was promoted on a jeep website for a stroker 4.0 that has the same dimensions as an all aluminum 2 row radiator specifically made for sbc swaps, both having a radiator cap(this I prefer for making sure there are no air bubbles) and not a closed system, and is 1/3 to 1/2 the price? Mine, as the project title indicates, will see no wheeling, but will at times see city traffic in Missouri. I will in some way vent the hood. Thinking a cowl induction type of hood but maybe with vents on each side of the scoop instead of or along with the one at the back. Thoughts!!!! :popcorn:

I've heard both stories. Almost all sbc's are put in 4x4's and I know both the "pumpkin" and front drive shaft needs to be cleared, but mine is a 4x2, and with no "pumpkin" or shaft to clear .... I have never received a definitive answer like "yes, both the 4x2 and 4x4 need lifting because we have added sbc's to both" from the suppliers of the mounts, etc to put one in a comanche/cherokee. Both Advance Adapters and Novak material only talk about adding sbc's to 4x4's, never a 4x2. Guess I will see unless someone out there can tell me definitely for a 4x2.

That is the risk. We have plans, but they fall through

Yea, keep at it! I just started a 327 project in my manche 4x2 (thread called project streetjeep). Got engine so far and don't know its shape. Ran when taken out of a truck 20 years ago. Free was good, though! Now comes saving money for mounts, radiator, transmission, headers, exhaust, probably a cowl hood, and buying as I go and collecting. Oh, yea, the final budget thing is the big one - MISC.!!! I know I will be no where near ready to start tearing for at least 2 years and I will be almost 65 then and this makes me say "why am I doing this???", but I am gonna try! So, don't give up! You will have a kewl one; an older amc engine, a one of a kind! Hey, race ya when done! :nuts:

The 2.8 sender is in the tank. It is just a straight pipe with the filter on the end. The mechanical pump on the block did the rest. I have a set of ZJ V8 coils laying here if you need them for your truck fairly cheap. Thanks on the 2.8 info! And, the ZJ coils, I am considering using them. I want to research different weight situations for the ZJ so I definitely don't raise the front any higher than it is now but not lower it either. My info shows both the 318 and 360 as slightly lighter that the 327. Is this true? More info on these springs?

Yea, welcome, and nice looking MJ. I have the same grille, but a black bumper on my 87. Looks like it might have been a towed rig, or are those brackets above the bumper where lights went? BTW, I grew up in Coos Bay, Oregon! And, given it's an 86, the engine bay limits what will fit for the most part. They changed the engine bay when they started with the inline 6. One of those may not fit in yours. :wall:

BTW, it's going in this:

Kind of thinking I would have to go to the mechanical pump. Thanks! Was the pump assembly for the carbed 2.8 in the tank?

BTW, looks kinda cruddy 'cuz it hung in a barn for about 20 years. Other than exhaust ports, all holes were still filled or covered, including distributor hole and carb area. Oil filter still on. Water pump turned freely. Will do a teardown and see what shakes! Hey, for free, can't complain!!! Every bolt hole has white stuff in it so it appears bugs, maybe spiders. Will deal with them this weekend.

Only one pic so far. 68 327 listed by numbers as 250hp

clicked the original thread link, clicked "dealer website", clicked "inventory", clicked "used", clicked "jeep", and, STILL THERE! SAME PRICE! :nuts: :eek: :yes: :ack: :???: :dunno: :rotf: :hmm: :dunce:

Well, first thing to come is not the pic of the engine, but questions! I will be getting rid of all computerization, and I have gauges and a tac. Anyone know if they can be made to work, and what to do to make them work without the computer? What is the 2.5 fuel pump pressure? An old Motors manual says I need 5 to 6.5 lbs of pressure for this 327. And, since the Manche has a fuel return line but a quadrajet doesn't, what needs to be done? A pressure relief valve? Suggestions on which one to get if that's what's needed? Danka!!!

It will be a sssllllooooowwww build, but in a few days I pick up a given to me for free a running when pulled about 15 years ago and kept in a barn and all holes covered complete chevy 327 from a 68 caprice to place into the engine compartment of my 4x2 swb 87. :clapping: Block and id numbers say HP 250, TORQUE 325, COMPRESSION 8.75, LIFT INTAKE .390, LIFT EXH .410 It even has the quadrajet on it! It will go on top of a weiand 8125 dual plane intake. It will get the lightest Comp Cam there is, a Pure Energy 246PE with .429 on the intake and .438 on the exhaust. I have been told this lift is easily within the range of the geometry of the stock valve components. Nothing special needed. I will use an old short in height (camaro type?) regular air cleaner that is double snorkeled and run tubing to the front on both sides to take in not warmed by the engine compartment air. It will have a hi-flow KN filter. Will search for a car 4 speed from the 1960's or 70's, or get the pickup 5 speed. Will use Novak's mechanical to hydraulic clutch adapter kit. With headers and free flowing exhaust I am thinking this will put out at least 275 hp. :yes: I will retain the 8.75 compression, so with some tweaking of the timing I'm told 87 octane should be good. This is not going to be a street rod, but a daily driver that, when needed, has the necessary muscle to pass or pull a trailer. I know, a 4.0 will do that, but I have wanted a 327 again for a long time, and at 62 years old my time to do it is getting less and less, so I am gonna!!!! Will work on getting a D44 later, but Novak claims that unless abused the D35 when in good shape is strong enough for a small block chevy. Will eventually add AC and maybe PS. Right now it has neither being a 2.5. And, checked with a Jeep parts dept; the front coils of the Comanche/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 were the same, so the front coils from a V8 Grand will fit in there to hold the weight. First thing to come will be a pic of the engine when I get it home! :banana:

Is this way-overpriced-repainted-and-probably-hiding-some-problems comanche still for sale?????

Bookmarked! :brows: