reson46

That's good. :thumbsup: Hopefully that transmission lasts for a while, but just prepare yourself for eventually replacing or rebuilding it. Did you drop the pan and change the filter? Willy

:agree: You really need the rest of the tow hook brackets if you plan on using it as a tow point. Willy

Good to see part of the XJ live on. :clapping: Did you use the transmission I sold you too? Willy

For the D30... From a quick Google search it looks like I was correct on this. You will need the lower carrier to regear the D30 to 3.73. The D44 carrier break is between 3.73 and 3.92. Your current carrier will be fine with the 3.73 gears. Also found a couple other carrier breaks and other tech info here. Willy

For some reason I picture the next video having one guy with a beer in one hand, gun in the other, and another guy bleeding on the ground. :brows: Willy

I'm installing an AutoMeter temperature gauge and sending unit. The installation instructions for the sending unit clearly states that it grounds through the sending unit's threads, but it also states to use teflon sealer on the threads. :hmm: This doesn't quite sound right to me. Wouldn't the teflon sealer reduce the grounding efficiency or possibly prevent it from grounding at all? Willy

Entirely depends upon where the carrier break is for the axle. What axle do you want to regear? Willy

I spent some time working on the brakes. Started off with a strong pull to the left and the rear brakes did not work at all. Overall, the brakes sucked. First, I swapped in an XJ proportioning valve and eliminated the rear load sensing proportioning valve (that wasn't even attached to the axle) and all the associated junk. Status - brakes still sucked. Next I checked the condition of the front pads and rotors. They are not brand new but still have plenty of miles left in them. I also compressed each caliper to make sure they weren't frozen. All appeared to be good on the front. On to the rear drums. After I was able to beat the drums free there was an unwelcome surprise on the driver side. The axle seal was leaking and the differential fluid appeared to have mixed with the brake dust and dirt to create a nice grease like mess. In the process of replacing the driver side axle seal I discover that I don't really enjoy removing C-clips from lunch box lockers. Overall it's not really that difficult, it just seems to require coordination skills that I apparently don't have. :wall: Next I replaced the shoes and springs on both the driver and passenger side. Considering how little corrosion this truck has, it was interesting to see how much corrosion all the brake hardware had. The self adjuster on the driver side had completely siezed. After putting the driver side shoes and springs back together I moved on to the passenger side, only to find out that the wheel cylinder was frozen. Back to the parts store for more parts. :doh: If I was draining the fluid and replacing one wheel cylinder I may as well do the other side too. So, after picking up new wheel cylinders I got to completely disassemble everything again. More fun was had replacing the wheel cylinders. The brake lines on both sides had siezed to their threaded fittings. :wall: Even after soaking them in PB Blaster overnight they did not want to separate themselves. Now I could either make new brake lines or, since I was able to break them free of the wheel cylinders, I could straighten a few of the bends of the hard line, pull the wheel cylinder and line through the backing plate until the cylinder was clear to spin freely, and remove the wheel cylinder from the brake fitting. I chose the latter, but this also required removing the axle shafts to gain enough room to pull the wheel cylinder through.......after I had just replaced the differential cover and filled it with fluid from the axle seal replacement. :grrrr: The rest went fairly smoothly, besides the jigsaw puzzle of springs that aggravated my tendonitis. All this just reinforces my opinion that drum brakes suck. I almost think I would have enjoyed swapping in an 8.8 with discs more than rebuilding those stupid drums. And....the brakes still suck and pull to the left. :rotfl2: I would say they suck a little less though. :rotf: Willy

That is hideous. :ack: Even without diamond plate it wouldn't look good. Almost makes a Ranchhand look nice. Willy

It is referred to as the carrier break. The break is entirely dependent upon the axle. - For example, the Ford 8.8 does not have a carrier break. - If I remember correctly the D30 breaks between 3.55 and 3.73. So 3.55 and up uses a different carrier than 3.73 and down. Willy

oops yeah thats what i ment, Oil pressure Sensor, my bad. Where is a good place to get new mounts at, online? I think you can buy directly from MORE or Brown Dog. I'm not sure about Daystar. They may only sell through distributors. Willy

Oil regulator? :huh???: Does he mean the oil pressure sensor? The stock motor mounts are complete crap. Replace them with some MORE, Brown Dog, or Daystar motor mounts. Willy

This is what I did with the doubler, but the same thing could be done for a single transfer case. This is another idea that eliminates a lot of the linkage and simplifies it. Willy

You really need to properly locate the spring perches. Blocks contribute to axle wrap. It is best not to use them. You already have plenty of lift without the blocks. Where are you located in WA? Willy

...or you just like to be able to hear. Willy

Visteon wasn't spun off until 97. Sterling in 98. These axles showed up in the late 80s, IIRC. Visteon also makes no mention of building axles, just interiors and electrical. Whatever, it's largely irrelevant. Referring to is as a 'Ford 10.25' might well be most correct. AAM started the same way. GM was making 10, 12, 14 bolts, etc. long before AAM spun off in the 90s and made them. :thumbsup: Willy

WHAT tailhousing? The tailhousing is on the OUTPUT end of the transfer case. We're dealing with the INPUT end. There is no tailshaft or tailshaft housing between the transmission and the transfer case. Please, everyone, let's all get on the same page here, and use the correct terminology. I was referring to the output and tail housing of the transmission. The part that is bolted to the end of the transmission and that the transfer case bolts to. Willy

That looks painful. :ack: Willy

Does Visteon own Sterling? Or, did they? Ford owned it, spun it off, bought it back... The 10.25/10.5 is made by Visteon. They are incorrectly referred to as Sterling axles because, from what I've been able to find, they are built in Sterling. The Sterling corporation is completely unrelated and didn't exist until Daimler/Freightliner purchased the HD truck division of Ford and renamed it Sterling in the late '90s. Can you still take a picture of the inside or have you already installed the gears? I wouldn't mind seeing what that looks like. :D Willy

What do you mean when you say "early"? My 95 XJ has an 8.25 in it. From what I read, most people say the 8.25 is much better to have than the D35. Yes, the 8.25 is much better than a D35. The early versions, like your's, have 27 splines. Sometime in 1996 they started using larger 29 spline axle shafts. What he is saying is that if you are replacing a D35, it makes more sense to replace it with the stronger 29 spline 8.25. There is nothing wrong with the 27 spline 8.25 if you already have it. Willy

You are correct. I checked last night and there is a seal there. :doh: Willy

No, the AW4 does not seal against the transfer case. The output seal is in the AW4 tailhousing. Look inside the recess the output shaft sticks out of. You should be able to see the sealed end of the case through the tailhousing. Willy So, you are saying that there is NO fluid in the extension housing on the AW4? That is just not true. And since I can see between the output seal and the output shaft, then it most certainly seals against the t-case input hub. I would say you have a seal that needs to be replaced. There shouldn't be any fluid there. There is no gasket or silicone between the transfer case and transmission to retain fluid in the tail housing. Think of it this way. What would be the point of fluid in the tail housing? There is nothing to lubricate and there is no way for the fluid to circulate through the rest of the transmission once it gets back there. Willy

No, the AW4 does not seal against the transfer case. The output seal is in the AW4 tailhousing. Look inside the recess the output shaft sticks out of. You should be able to see the sealed end of the case through the tailhousing. Willy

If you mean the Chrysler 8.25, it did not come in XJs in the 80s. Willy

$250 is not a lot for what they are. That is a bargain and well worth the price. Willy