bodukexj

Bump 1300. I'm surprised this is still here; it sure is a shame watching her rust away in the yard......

Bump. $1500

Bump. $1700.

Hornbrod; its an off road only trailer queen- I'm running 33" right now, and may go to 35's when I've got a bit less body panels left ;) I figure do it once and do it right... As for a good gear guy inside of 50 miles, the one guy that was actually willing to touch them quoted me $500 per axle plus parts!! Sounds like he really doesn't want to do it... Plan B is the 3.73 front; my 8.8 is already 3.73, and to be honest, the 3.55s that were under the truck really never gave me any problems... I'm really only regearing to get two matching axles... Somehow, somewhere... And I figure if I'm gonna do it, I might as well do it once and Max out the Dana 30. (Everything else is stock, if it matters.)

I would gladly regar, except I can't find anybody to do it for me. I'd LOVE to bring both axles down to 4.88, but the only quote I got for that was $500/axle plus parts! I was hoping to score a quick 3.73 front that would match the ford 8.8 out back

Like it says, I'm looking for a 3.73 Dana 30 to go under an xj/mj. Would really prefer the whole assembly hub to hub, but would settle for all the guts to go from 3.55 to 3.73. Up to $250 cash in hand, depending on what you've got; also offering a finders fee. Located in 29560, but will travel within reason.

FYI: that 88 with the white cab/black bed in Hemingway, sc has been relisted at $2000... ;)

bump. $2000

Reduced price. $2500obo

Bump. With pix.

I've got one (Comanche) listed in the Craigslist section. Located in Florence/Myrtle beach, sc.

I actually had this plug pop out when my block froze... But that's a different story... I managed to get a new one in with a big prybar, and using the pinch weld where the hood mates up as a leverage point. No removal of anything nessicary. I just pressed it in until the lip was fluch with the head surface... Seems good so far ( two years later).

Added myself in sc.

Classic vacuum problem. Check, check and recheck the vacuum lines. I usually just run a direct line from the manifold to the heater control panel. (It's a safety thing; all vehicles are set up to failsafe to defroster if they loose vacuum- you don't need cabin heat, but you do need a clear windshield!)

I've done dozens of these... As stated above, just use 1/4x20 bolts of the appropriate length, and nyloc (aircraft) locknuts, and you'll never have to worry about it again. (P.s. if its a slow motor, check that it has a good ground before replacing it. It may also me misaligned window guides- I usually check that by smearing the guides with vasoline or wd40; roll the window up and down a few times- if it speeds up, its the guides, if not, possibly the motor...) Good luck!!

Sold

I know there are tons of threads on lights, but this isnt a which is brighter question 8-) I just added a light bar to my mj, and now i'm trying to decide on what lights to run. i know i want four lights across the bar; two driving/ driving-fog hybrids on the outside, and two long range lights in the middle. I also plan to mount a light UNDER the bar as a backup/work light. I'm not too worried about the backup light, but i definitely want the four on top to match. so far, i've narrowed it down to KC Hilites Daylighters or Series 57. I like that the Series 57 keeps the 80's look with the square lines being rectangle lights, but they come with covers not stone guards. Daylighters are, well, daylighters, and they come with stone guards, but they're round... worried they'll mickey-mouse it stone guards are not a deal breaker, but i like the idea of having the protection and not having to remove and replace covers all the time, plus i think they help the look. Does anybody know of any rectangle lights that come with stone guards, or have opinions on whether or not round lights will look out of place? I do live out in the boonies, so function definitely come before form, but form is a close second. Pics of my rig: And some photochops: with square lights: Image Not Found with round:

is there perhaps a fuel pump cut off switch (inertia switch) that could have tripped?

ya, wth... givin the rest of us a bad name... :rotfl2:

i would start by confirming spark and fuel- check (the wiring) if the pump is getting 12 volts at key on/crank. if not, is the fuel pump relay getting/putting out power? if no, is the ECM putting out? work backwards- how would you find a clog in a pipe. same goes for the spark- is the boot putting out? coil getting signal? . years ago my brother had a pontiac (sunfire? sunbird?) anyway, they were prone to burning out the wire that goes from the ECM to the injector... happened twice on his. I always try to follow R.C.B.R.C. - refresh conncections before replacing components (saw it on a forum somewhere, and totally agree)

i wouldnt doubt it... it came from miami :) and for less than that- actually, it cost me that including shipping ;) jeepsouth- nice to meet another "local" jeeper; i can't seem to find any SC/Myrtle beach based clubs/groups for local wheeling- any ideas?

I'm down here by myrtle beach in a little town called johnsonville. thanks for the welcome- and some glamor shots to pay it back :) and I just realized theres an introduction thread... i guess thats what i get for trying to browse on my tiny little phone :) the pictures with the black rims are fresh off the shipping truck with 235/75's, and the silver rims/box are how it sits now on 31's and a few of it's cousin, the general:

Hey guys, been lurking here awhile, and just picked up a new to me mj. 89 4.0, auto, 4x4(242). Its in great condition, except the PO saw some reason to cut the heater box in half... so no heat. I'll post some glamour shots when I get home, but just dropping in to say hello, and I can't wait to get to know you all. -Michael