LoTGoD

That looks like it was way too easy. Very nice. I'll be interested in when you put your door locks back in. I have door and ignition cylinders from a 94 Cherokee that I am trying to swap in right now. I spent almost an hour fiddling with the drivers door lock, and can't seem to get it in.

Sorry hornbrod, I was trying to ask what fit a shortbed. Sometimes my innerweb humor doesn't come across as I think it does.

Unless you have a shortbed :brows:

Hmmm...now I am wondering. I got a 4.0l gasket set from Crown. It appeared to be a very well designed gasket, with the metal lips around all holes. I wondered the same thing, and ended up going to NAPA to ask them what to do. Everyone I talked to said to use the copper gasket compound. I did. Shouldn't be an issue should it?

I just got done doing the head on my 90. I would recommend getting a Chilton's or Haynes to do it, but it isn't necessary. There wasn't anything in particular that I had trouble with. The only thing that bugged me was trying to torque the intake/exhaust manifold bolts on the underside of the intake. There is just no way to get a torque wrench in there. Make sure to use a good gasket, and replace all of the gaskets you can get to since you have pretty much everything off. Don't make the mistake I did and not put the rods and rockers back on before you put the valve cover back on... Other than that, it just took me a bunch of time to make sure everything was done correctly.

No...I didn't make it out. Too much going on for me to make a day of it.

What did the truck look like? I was out there Friday setting stuff up for 4WD, and I'll bet you I know who you are talking about.

The rad is new-ish, so the drain C#*@ is plastic (not sure what the older ones are made of) and it opened right up with no problems.

Freeze plugs are fine...I'm opening up the block drains to drian the coolant so I can change the head gasket.

Anyone ever remove them while the motor was still in the Jeep? I figured I'd get off my lazy butt tonight and start some real work on the heep. I am reading the 90 DC Service Manual, and it says to open the drain C#*@ on the rad first, to remove the coolant. Second item is to open the engine block coolant plug, and also remove the temp sensor from its plug hole. I can't seem to get behind the motor mount to get to the temp sensor. I can kind of reach the rear plug, but it is really tight. Has anyone done this? Do you have small hands? As always, any ideas are appreciated.

I had an older (97-02) Fabtech 6" long arm kit that I just sold. The parts were solid, but the control arms seemed too weak. It was a used kit, but the previous owner beat the heck out of it, and bent 2 of the lower arms from wheeling. That being said, the newer kits from Fabtech seem much better in construction than the older ones.

Field Museum Billy Goat Tavern. Sears Tower Ride the L

I did see that, but was hoping there was a place to get stock ones.

These are the only ones I will run: http://www.mcgard.com/automotive/ Not sure if they are stainless or not, but they can take a beating.

The only Pitbull tires I have seen are the Rockers. A few guys in Samurai's run them in WERock, with decent success. The ones I have see are VERY wide, so aired down, they provide good traction. I haven't seen the Growlers yet.

I just did a Google map. I can't believe how close this place is. I am only about 45-60 minutes from there!!!

Definitely...if they are there. I will be in PA this weekend for the final WERock competition, but I should be able to swing over the following weekend to grab whatever you find. Let me know,and also let me know the hours over there (weekends?) Thanks a ton!!!!

I sure could use a ceiling panel and the rear carpeted panel under the back window if it has either.

Jack it up. Put jack stands under the axle. Pull the tires. Open the diff cover and drain the oil. Remove C-clips. Remove brake drums. Remove axle shafts. Install locker.

I see you say you don't want to buy one. Do you have a link to where they can be bought? I don't have the time or patience to make one right now, and mine is missing entirely as well.

Man......every time I read this.......I'm reminded of This. I had a bunch of stuff typed out, but I don't want to get in to it here. Let's just agree to disagree. That being said, I have some JKS disco's that I took off the TJ that I will probably run on the MJ.

Do you have to run them? Here in Ohio no one ever checks them...so I haven't had any on my lifted TJ for about 3 years now.

Wow...those are...PURPLE!! Like screaming right at you PURPLE!!!!!

If I can find one cheap enough. People around these parts know what they are worth, and finding them under $800 is rare.... My good buddy works at Solid Axle, so I have a hookup for D60 parts on the cheap side.

I believe 97+ were disc and 31 spline. Pre-97 were 27 spline and drum brakes.