MrSimon

Weed is smoked almost exclusively for the purpose of getting high. High people act stupid, can't focus, can't work, shouldn't drive, and often do stupid things that endanger themselves and others. Legalizing weed would requrie the gov't to establish complex quality control and regulation agencies - which would most likely cost more than the tax revenues on legal weed. Weed is addicitve. Addicts get fat, horrible skin, yellow eyes, lazy, and unproductive. Legalizing weed for adults means it will be more readily available to minors. Weed causes lasting damage to the brain, heart, and respitory system http://www.nida.nih.gov/researchreports/marijuana/Marijuana3.html So tell me again why the US government should spend MY tax money to legalize this substance????? Oh, and for those of you who say things like, "Weed isn't any different than alcohol." Maybe you should re-think the impact that drunk people have on our society. For example, try these statistics on for size: • Over 40% of fatal automobile accidents are alcohol-related • Approximately 30% of Americans will be in an accident involving alcohol • According to estimates, someone is injured in an alcohol-related accident every two minutes Sheesh ..... if you really need to "mellow out and chill" ...... don't smoke .... go wrench on a Jeep for an hour!

I'm reviving this thread because I have the exact same question. Stupid me, I gave away all the stock bolts with the stock bumper .... I didn't realize that the JCR rear bumper doesn't come with new hardware. I'm hoping someone knows what size I need ...... or I'll end up buying four or five sizes and return the wrong ones - what a pain.

I don't know abou the swap, but that moving diagram is fantastic!! How did you do that?

I just replaced my MJ D35 with a 97 XJ 8.25. I was thinking about using the D35 brakes since they were new, but when I saw the difference in size (width and length are both different) of the pads, I decided to just pony up and get new 8.35 stuff. I'd really suggest getting the stuff that is designed to fit the 8.25 .... brakes aren't something you want to pinch pennies on.

Maybe this is a good place to post other things that really annoy me about forum posts: 1. Quoting a post, INCLUDING all the pictures, just to say something like, "Nice rig". 2. Big pictures or large text in signatures .... its annoying and takes up space. 3. Starting posts with the words Ok, So, or Alright. For example .... "So, I've got this old Jeep and it won't start ...... Ok, so I lifted the truck and now I have death wobble ...... Alright, I've been working on this for hours and I'm stuck." Sheesh, just start typing your question. 4. Asking questions when you are going to do it a certain way no matter what anyone says. The list goes on and on.

I agree - not coming from the pan. And HUGE PROPS to you for taking the time to post a good clear picture of your problem .... it makes things SOOOOOO much easier to diagnose and offer suggestions.

Right. If you engage 4WD and the axles don't match, the truck will tear itself apart ... starting with the tansfer case.

You can usually just look at your shocks and tell if there if there is additional uptravel available. Chances are, you are jacking the truck up by the axle, and you have stiff springs that keep it from compressing. Try just leaving the truck sit normally on the ground, and bounce on the front bumper a couple times. If it compresses down, you've got uptravel.

For the front, either spacers, new coil springs, or a combo of both. One of the most common ways to do it is to get a set of used coils from a V8 Grand Cherokee - they give between 1 and 2 inches of lift depending on condition. If needed, throw in a spacer to get to 2". For the back, you can get a set of lift shackles, but most of them only give 1.5". You can get a full length add-a-leaf and get at least 2", maybe more. Or you could experiment with building a bastard pack of some sort.

I agree with what everyone else has said. A 2" budget boost and 31s is going to be the cheapest and easiest way to get a more aggresive stance ... and you'll be able to keep everything else stock and still have a decent ride. Going to 33s is a whole new ball game. You have to start thinking about soooo much more in regards to suspension, sterring, shocks, gearing, etc. So, before you do anything and spend any money .... think real hard on how you want your truck to look. Look through the picture thread for a while to get an idea of how the different lift/tire combos look. If you do decide to go 33s, I highly recommend a spring over in the rear.

All depends on your budget and how you plan to use the truck. (Boy, if I only had a dollar for everytime somebody posted that same response .....). If you are on a budget, search around on this and other Jeep sites for used adjustable control arms, adjustable track bar, and sway bar links (if you plan to wheel it, get sway bar discos). That stuff shows up all the time and isn't too expensive. Just switching from a D35 to D44 won't make a bit of difference in power ... its the gear ratio that makes the difference. Find out what you have now and move up two steps - that should compensate for the little engine and bigger tires. For the slopy steering ... just get underneath and start wiggling stuff looking for slop. Check all four tie rod ends first and go from there.

That looks like a pretty nice kit ... and the price is decent. You should also consider control arm drop brackets. 6.5" of lift with short arms (even if they are adjustable) is gonna make for some really crappy angles.

Yeah, I only have 5" coils and there is no way they are coming out unless I un-bolt the control arms and shocks ... the axle has to drop pretty far to get them out.

I'm realy having trouble finding new center pins. The local hardware stores don't have any grade 8 socket cap bolts. NAPA had nice grade 8 pins, but they don't quite fit - either the shaft is too narrow for the leafs, or the head is to big for the perch. I may end up having to drill out the perch a little bit.

I'd be thrilled to take that extra ball off your hands (boy, does that sound bad or what??). PM me your Paypal address and how much you want for it .... I'll send you my shipping address. THANKS!

I went for a drive without my bumper - found this when I got home. I don't know much about the vaccum system, so what will be affected now that the ball is gone? If I shim the CAD and don't care about dash lights .... can I just trim and cap the line?

Those are just old U bolts I had laying around ... new ones will go on. Any idea where I can get a new leaf pin. A local store would be best - not sure if I have time to have one shipped before the SOA goes on thsi weekend. EDIT - Just saw Pete's reply ... I'll check the local hardware store. Thanks. Oh, and I got the perches from M.O.R.E.

I'm getting ready to have my SOA done and I've got a few questions. As the pictures show, the nut on the pin that goes through the leafs prevents the perches from sitting right up against the leafs. Can I just flip it over? Or should I replace it with something. Also, does this look right (except for that darn nut)?

I say just leave the engine bay alone ... its an old work truck - it ain't gonna win any beauty contests no matter what you do to it But, you should take your time and do a nice job on the exterior paint. Like everyone always says, its all in the prep work. Some guys may disagree with this, but you don't have to remove the bed if you don't want to. A spray gun will get the new paint in far enough that you won't ever see the red. Sure, if you have the time, space, tools, and desire to pull the bed - its always a good idea - but not completely needed.

I put three coats (two of which were very heavy) on my entire floor and some on the underside too .... I used just less than a quart. But, if you are going to buy POR15, get a few extra quarts - its great stuff to have around.

I just talked to JCR and it seems the biggest difference in terms of fab work is re-working the sway bar mounts to accomodate the OTK set-up. It also sounds like the OTK offers better geometry, more ground clearance, and less slop in the steering. I think, at least for me, some extra fab work is worth the benefits of the OTK .... especially since the kits are the same price. Now I just have to be willing to cough up the $315 :doh:

I've started my research on steering upgrades. I am leaning heavily towards JCR, but they have two identically priced kits. From reading their website, the OTK set-up offers a better ride and smoother steering, but it requires more fab work to install. Assuming I can do (or get help doing) the install on either kit .... is there any reason NOT to get the OTK?

I didn't know that - very helpful information!! Thanks. I hope you enjoy the bumper ... dents, rust and all ;)

Success!! I let the PB sit over night, whacked the knuckle a couple times, then tapped the bolt - it popped right out. I called around to see about buying a new V8 ZJ rod and ends ... I'm now confused again. The parts stores kept asking me if it was the right or the left tie rod. Then when I asked about the TREs they wanted to know inner or outer. I don't get it. I thought there was just one tie rod and two TREs. Maybe I don't really understand what a tie rod is. Any thoughts??

Why is it bad to adjust with the tires off? I pre-measured and know exactly how much to adjust. And why shouldn't I hit the threads (and which ones do you mean) with a hammer? Sorry for the beginner questions, but this is the first time I've messed with a tie rod.