Tonedef131

You guys were right about the wheel cylinders, they aren't leaking but they are barely pushing the shoes out. The shoes and everything else look to be in pretty good shape, probably because they have barely been used since the wheel cylinders aren't working. The drums aren't too worn, but I am going to have them machined anyway since a buddy of mine works at Napa and said he would do it for free if I brought them in when he was working. Since I am replacing them anyway, I like the idea of getting bigger ones in there. What size do you recommend? Do the eagle ones feel pretty good carnuck?

Thanks guys, those are very helpful. The parts that are missing are 3,4, and 27 on that diagram. I already put everything back together since I figure I am going to have to hit up the dealership for those. I think I am going to do the wheel cylinder anyway since they don't seem to be working very well. Another day, at least now I know what I need.

I am pretty sure the PO removed a lot more than just the cable. I don't appear to have a parking brake link, link spring or lever. Does anyone know where I can get these on a sunday? Napa and autozone don't seem to have them listed in their parts.

Not really, I see the line come in and disappear behind that bracket but I have no idea what it fastens to. I know where the line comes in, but I don't know what it hooks up to or even how it works.

My trucks PO removed the parking brake rear lines and didn't replace them for whatever reason. So I am putting them back on and doing the rear brakes while I am at it. I have one side off and the other side is still assembled but the drum is off. I have the new cables but can't figure out for the life of me how they hook into the drums. I have a manual and have been reading it and looking at these brakes for over an hour and have no clue how the parking brake works. Does anyone have a good explanation or picture of how the parking brake hooks up?

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695

Thanks, I planned on getting the self adjuster repair kit anyway because it is only $12. I am also definatly replacing all the hardware and shoes. As for the machining my local shop only charges $12 per drum but new ones at Napa are $45 each for the cheapest ones. Any tips for getting the 20 year old drums off? I expect that to be the hardest part of the whole job. I am going to start hitting them today with PB so hopefully they will be loosened a bit by saturday.

As long as you are keeping the fluid changed I bet you can get a lot more life out of it. Mine went from feeling like it was gonna die to shifting like new after I changed out the fluid. The old stuff was the color and consistancy of chocolate milk. Also please shrink down the pic in your sig, you are breaking tables.

I have the same issue. It always worked fine until a couple of months ago when I was working on the fuse box I must have bumped it, because it stopped working. I will be replacing the back cables this weekend and will look at it. I will report back if I figure it out.

I remembered reading about it on wikipedia, so you know...take this with a heaping spoonful of salt, but for what it's worth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_Straight_6_engine#4.0

Sounds like a good deal, I will probobly grab some after I get my exhaust fixed up.

If I remember right there was a upgrade in the 88 injectors over the 87 injectors, right? I thought the 88 and up renix had more power than the 87, so can I expect a power increase with these in my 87 4.0?

After owning my jeep for three years with no parking brake, I finally decided to fix it this weekend. The previous owner removed the two rear cables that go to each drum. But since I have never done the drums before, and being the kind of guy that just removes cables when something stops working, I am assuming that the PO didn't ever do them either. My stopping power has also gone to hell, so the whole drums are getting an overhaul this saturday. Now I have never owned a vehicle that had drum brakes before, so I have no idea what I am getting myself into. My first question is what size drums does it have? Napa online says that you could have a 10x2.5 or 10x1.75. I have a Dana 35 so do I have the 1.75"? Second question is what all will I need to get these drums stoppin good again? I know shoes and probobly springs and perhaps getting the drum machined, anything else? Napa has a hardware kit that seems to supply about everything in the drum and it is $9, what do you guys think?

They're the same gauge so it should work. I replaced the clusters in two of my MJs from what I assume were XJ clusters (what's the chance they both came from MJs? very low) and they both work fine, light comes on when ~2 to 2.5 gallons are left. Well today I was down to less than a gallon, and no light came on. Could the light be bunt out? I looked at it while it was out and it didn't look like a replaceable bulb.

Does anyone know if the low fuel indicator light in a cluster out of a XJ will work in an MJ? I was pretty low on fuel today and didn't notice it come on.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205 I just did this swap yesterday and that link helped give me an idea oh what was behind there since I couldn't see. It also has pics of the temp sensor location.

Yeah, welcome to the "my trucks PO cut the e-brake" club.

Mine says incomplete as well, do they make you have it done there or will they just give me the part? I am planning on replacing my exhaust manifold very soon and would rather they just gave me the part.

I did my ball joints last week and decided to do u-joints and wheel bearing while I was at it. Then I saw that I had no brake pads left, so I pretty much ended up replacing everything. You might see if you can get a buddy to come over and help for the day, there was a few times when I needed a second set of hands. Otherwise you can just each take a side and cut the time it takes to do the job in half. As for the parts I used the Napa premium ball joints, but only because I could get them that day. They weren't any cheaper than the moog, so if you are ordering online you may as well get those.

Here is some pictures of what it looks like when the bolts are tightened down and the slide part of the pins are as far in as it goes. Top: Bottom: It is an AMC number 103707 caliper, I am going to try googling that to see if it is the right caliper.

Is there a trailer hitch on it? Once part of my plug in at the trailer hitch was grounding itself on the truck and shorting all the lights out. I covered the open end in electrical tape and everything was fine. I also unplugged the rear harness to troubleshoot and that is where it led me.

i have never checked the drums, so I will definitely do that. That would be some weird coincidence that it would start doing that the day after I worked on the fronts.

It's an 87. It looked the same, but I guess I didn't know to look for that. I will pull the wheels off tomorrow and make sure the rotors are the same, because the drivers side wasn't replaced. But if that was the case wouldn't the caliper had trouble fitting on the wrong rotor? After driving it quite a bit today, I did not experience the jolting though, so perhaps it has gone away. I am still gonna pull the wheels off and make sure everything is cool though.

10w-40, and I change it once per season. I don't put many miles on it so I just stick to the every 3 months time interval. While this thread is going I may as well ask. I hear a lot of people say they put 6 quarts in their 4.0, but when I do that the crankcase seems too full. I have been running 5 quarts all this time with no issues and the dipstick says it's perfect, what gives?

Man, I'm confused. Are you asking if the caliper mounting bolts should push on the pads? Hell, no! The mounting bolts go through sleeves and should allow the calipers to slide sideways. The only thing pushing on the pads should be the caliper pistons. Thats why I backed them out a bit, but they were still pretty close to that pad. Yeah, they didn't bottom out till they hit the pad. But the threads looked fine and they had that long polished sleeve on them so I think they are the correct ones. Allen head right?