CWLONGSHOT

OMFG........ QUOTE: On the subject of things falling (just read that) I had a '91 Civic fall on my head (car was on axle stands with blocks under the wheels) when the Duvall, WA quake of Jan '95 hit and knocked it down. Nowadays, I use my engine hoist and blocks when doing axle swaps, etc. I survived with a little brain damage (right eye pushed out of socket, and I lost a pint of blood out of my left ear, which still whistles and rings and inopportune times. Basl skull fracture from the eye socket across the top of my nec to my neck) and I was DAMN lucky to be here now and not a vegetable! Dude, You ARE very lucky!! Glad you pulled thru!! CW

I used a BI-METAL hole saw, of the same diameter as the tube/pipe. As long as you can get it centered, on the drill press, you get two birds mouthed tubes in one shot!! CW

This is the header panel. CW

:cheers: :cheers: Mine is a long bed and I decided to run the rail form flair to flair. that meant 80" of rail...mighty long. I was going to do five stand offs, but for now, I only did five. With three in the cab area and one for the bed. There is room for another for the bed if it proves that I need it, altough I do not think it will be necessarry. I have not tied the body into them as yet, because the stock I bought for this was cut too short and I want it to be one piece. I decided on 1" square stock instead of the angle most use. I will run it a bit closer to the frame and allow it to fit between the structural ribs of the body and the pinch seam as well as the tops of the stand offs of my rails. Then drill and bolt thru the pinch seam and weld to the bracketry and the stand offs. I used 1.75 poop pipe for the rails. Its dragging on rocks, it will be fine for this application. I welded directly to the front LCA mount as well as the rear, spring hanger. In the center, I added two pieces of 3" angle iron welded to the "frame" then the stand offs welded to that. Here is some pics: Now just need to make it stop raining long enough to get some paint on it!!!!! CW

I agree, 5.5" coils and a spring over/factory leafs looks right to me.....but as Pete said, the 2WD leaves seem to be about 1" lower...so you may get a nice look with only 4.5' coils in your 2WD. I prefer that slightly higher in the back look, its as pu should be IMHO. CW

Rear will front will NOT. Your rear is a NON "C" clip D35 while the TJ is a "C" clip D35 rear, but that will make no never mind for the actual gears them selves. Your MJ is a hi-pinion D30 front. Thats reverse rotation and not the same as the TJ's LO-PINION STD rotation. CW

Trying to see if pic will post for me.....all I can see is a red X in yours. :D :oops: CW It didnt work for me either.... :hateputers: Found your picturetrail site though!!! GREAT PICS, pete!!! CW

At 59" its wider than the 8.8 and thats driveable with propper BS rims. So I would say you are/will be fine, with propperly back spaced rims. Sounds good!!! CW

AHH... :roll: ...I agree with the 4" as max amount of B. S.......but 3.25" will push the tar out farther, causing more fitment problems. :eek: :oops: :D 4.5" of BS, IMHO, would be about ideal. Personally I would stick with 33" tars. Yea you could likely fit 35"ERs' with some trimming and a bit of finagling, but 33" ERs' should bolt right up and clear everything with proper back spacing on the rims. Besides, you could get 33x10.5x15 and not have as many worries about the extra stress of the D30 AND not worry so about hitting the lower rear edge of the front wheel well!!! As for brand....you will look LONG and HARD before you find a better tar than the B.F. Goodrich MT for your purpose. CW

You cannot follow the links I posted for you?? :cry: :headpop: This is from the bottom of the page, but there is a couple ways to find it from the companys cover page. I did not mention Claytons. They are basically a bomb proof set up, but in my opinion, not worthwhile for what I read you want. Unless you are looking for a extreem lift and extreem durability. I am lucky, they are 20 min's away rom me here in Connecticut and a very good product, please do not get me wrong. CW

Here is a link to RUBICON EXPRESS. this would be my first choice for a "kit". http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/m ... lderid=346 Here is a link to TnT Customs. if I was going to go long arm and was piecing something together myself. I'd likely start here. http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV3/xjylink.asp As for rear springs, there really is only three choices. 1) A factory or factory replacement spring moved to the top of the axle. I.E. SPRING OVER. This would be my last choice as Spring Over has its own short list of down falls. These could be eliminated with longer perches and a good new spring pack. 2) Private leaf spring manufacturer. Have them make you a spring to your specfications. This is your best choice IMHO, but not the cheapest. 3) RUSTYS offers a 4" spring pack for the MJ. It is not manufactured by them, SO all you have to deal with is poor customer service. This is a good choice and the cheapest. (This is what I did. I am happy with the springs so far, they flex well and ride as stock.) For front springs, just go with R.E. and be done with it. Good luck, CW

I agree, something is amiss here......Is the new axle bent? If not, why is camber off??? What was the deal with your old axle? Caster is not a big a deal, at least money wise. As EAGLE already said, Shims can be added or removed from behind the frame end of the LCA to adjust this. CW

EAGLE is the MAN!!!!!

3:73 are a common TJ ratio with the 30" wheel package. But you don't find many of these in junk yards as yet. not to mention they are LO-PINION design D30's. CW

Yes, everything will work to make your Mj a 4wd. Most eveything will be just a bolt in!! As pong said the perches on the XJ axle will need to be removed and new ones welded UNDER the axle in a slightly wider position. That AND the DS will be wrong as well. Its likely that you will be able to have the 2wd shaft shortened. Good luck!!

I would also be interested in some stickers and magnets!! keep us posted and where/how to pay for them!! Comanche Club paypal account maybe??? CW

I AM also talking about a second fan. The FACTORY added aux fans on XJ/MJ's that left the fact with A/C. If you need an additional fan to those two, you likely have a larger problem than another fan will rectify. I would do a flush and refill and maybe a new radiator. just be sure you get one from a A/C equipted jeep!!! For the gauges, just plug in the correct year unit and change out two senders and your done!!! Change out the OIL sender located just below your dist: Then change out the temp sender at the back of the block. be careful there are TWO. the one you want is the harder of the two to change: NOT THIS ONE!!! THIS ONE!! Then its just a bunch of serwes and a bit of cursing and you will have the factory unit out. One tip, the cable is routed thru the dash to a point under the drivers feet. there is a solid mount that attached to the upper control armbolt. Slide this off and you will get about another 6" of usable space to get the speedo cable off!! All done!! Good luck!! CW

Before I switched to gages in my MJ I got the idiot light to come on a cpouple times last year while out on te trail. I am unsure what the temp was..only that the light came on. I added a factory fan from a AC equipted 4.0 XJ. Now all I have to do is thropw a switch and the temp drops back to about 200 while out on the trail. Works perfectly!! I have the temp sender for the rad in just need to finish rewiring. This is what I would do if I was you, good luck!! CW

Likely no, but that will depend on your wheel base and the amount of total lift you end up with. Like many others, 'm at 5.5 to 6" in a long bed and do NOT require a SYE. From the stand point of vibrations. BUT, a SYE is also a serious stregnth upgrade. CW

VERY COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where can we get a copy?? Or is it not as yet avalible?? CW

I am going to recomend RUSTYS. I have them and so far they are great. they flex like a...well they really flex!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Having said that I must clarify. I am NOT a fan of Rustys. But know that, these springs are NOT MANUFACTURED BY RUSTYS. This is the reason I will recomend them. At 270$ I feel they are a very good deal. I have no doubt the ALCANs pong recomends are better, but at much more money. CW

Looks good!! My bumper attached simular to yours, but I was worried as the bolts where so close together, thats why I added the angled bars to mine. You say your works fine for your CAR TRAILER!! WOW, GOOD JOB!!! CW

THANKS FOR POSTING!!! I copied and saved!!! Great referance material! CW

You can always stop payment on the check...... When I did mine, I was unsure as to what I would end up with for lift, so I went with the ACOS for the front. I have Rustys 3" coils and ACOS, I set for the ride height that looked best. The Drivers side is set higher than the pass so the Jeep sits level. The ACOS is very nice. You may want to look into them. CW

I agree!! Go with R.E. you won't be dissapointed!! CW