CWLONGSHOT

Just ran across this while recomending the site to another member... http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAutoCooler.htm CW

I have a cheapo H4 light conversion. I like the lite output. But it was nothing compared to the increase I got form the wiring upgrade!!! http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/ has an excellent writeup. A few days ago I read a nice writeup in JP mag on all kinds of popular lites for jeeps. Some halogens, mostly H4 conversions including ALL mentioned here as well as many others not mentioned, like Delta and Rampage. Hella was head and shoulders better then setup costing twice as much! if i where doing this over again, I would do the wire loom upgrade, then a Hella H4 lens followed with the excellent MTec bulbs. CW

Lookie what I found today... Image Not Found I believe FOUR WHEELER mag puts it out... CW

Who is running them and how and where did you mount it? I am looking to add one in-line, before the cooler in the radiator. NOT to the front of the radiator. the reason is to try to keep temps stable, attaching it to the radiator will only further restrict airflow through the radiator. I want it somewhere out of harms way, but where it gets good airflow. I may need to add a fan. I picked up a B&M universal for a midsized vehicle. Before I do anything I wondered if any of you guys did this. What did you do and how did it work. CW

Its worth allot!! EXCELLENT feedback, I couldn't ask for better!! Thank you!! In timely manor, a good friend just bought a set of Bighorns for his TJ. 33x12.5x15's, so I'll be talking to him to see how he likes them. :bowdown: Like I mentioned, for me, on this vehicle, it spends better than 85% of its time on the street. My off-road with it is partially in the woods, generally avoiding the mud but definitely hitting the rocks. I know I would likely be best suited with a AT for 90+% of what I do with the MJ. Remember, I have a hard core rock jeep. Of hard core stuff is on the agenda, the MJ stays home. But I also want the aggressive look and benefit, when I am in the woods. The woods here in New England are mostly off camber, twisty trails with almost always a layer of up to a couple inches of sticky mud. The deep mud holes will be avoided, but stuff a foot deep are not that uncommon, and not always avoidable. So for this reason alone, I would like to stick with a mud tire. Also, I am not a "throttle jockey". I prefer to use my brain more than brawn behind the wheel and definitely subscribe to tread lightly and the slow as you can, fast as you have to, wheeling mentality. Noise isn't much of a concern, mileage is. One concern with going to a 16"tire is the relatively light weight of the MJ and the stronger carcass of most 16" tires. I see the Maxis is available in a black wall 255x80x16 tire. This is a very real possibility if I where choosing right now. Today I was reading about the Swamper M16 tire... Its available in a 295x80x16 size! That's just over 34" and almost 11" wide. It also has a two ply side wall, so flex of that carcass should be well suited to the MJ's weight. SO MANY CHOICES.. well I have the time to research and make an educated decision... CW

They factory rims are off a '06 Rubicon. They are a cast/painted rim not aluminum as many think. I really like the look. Here is Hubbel's with the same rims in the same size tire I am considering: CW

Tonight I got a visitor... a visitor baring gifts. My new rims for the MJ .... Gotta decide on what tires and then a size. For the tire, I want something street friendly as it spends most of its time on the street. but don't really want a AT. Want something more aggressive so I don't have to swap tires any longer... I really wish there was something 34"x10"x16 (305x80x16) in a metric. But its most likely I'll end up with a 285x75x16. BFG makes a 255x80x16. Both at just over 33" the 75 is just over 11" wide and the 80 just over 10". As for the tire.. Maxis bighorns, Goodyear Kevlar, BFG MT's and Kuhmo MT KL71s are what I have looked at so far. Kuhmo and Maxis are the cheapest at about 200 ea and the Kevlar and BFG tops at closer to 250. I always bought BFG...Now I'm thinking I may try something else...then again, maybe I should stay with what I know...BFG.. I don't know. Good thing is, I don't HAVE TO get them now.. I can put it off till the winter maybe next spring. I could even run these MTRs till spring/summer. They have plenty of life in them even thou they are small... (245x75x16) :dunno: CW

A couple weeks back, I swapped in a new to me 3500 # axle. it is set up for electric brakes. I'm not using them. CW

OK, I already changed the chains... :dunno: A quick trip to HD to get the proper attachments for the chains also netted me some stainless steel chain! Even better then painted chain! SO, I ground off the chain I welded on yesterday and welded on links. I cut the chains to length. Cut hose to fit and attached everything. Look and works great! CW

1989 Jeep Comanche Image Not Found 4.0L Renix / AW4 / 231/ D30/ D35 / LWB (as of build sheet) Miles: Currently, 96K miles Location: Meriden, Connecticut Build date: 3/1989 Status: Registered and daily driven Notes: Many, many changes and upgrades. viewtopic.php?t=1230 Current owner: Brian S. aka cwlongshot

A unscheduled trip to Dick's sporting goods, after dinner last night netted a new 100QT Igloo cooler for the trailer!! :bowdown: :bowdown: We have one of those "rewards" cards. My wife, had been saving the "checks" she got from all my little hunting/fishing/camping purchases. Well, that made the $70 Price tag a bit lower!! :brows: SO, it came home with us!! It fits the basket very well, is a 5-day cooler so the insulation is really thick compared to out reg 48QT coolers. Will make a nice addition for the trailer and the boat. Got a 3day wheeling trip coming up in three weeks then a 10day VK @ the end of July. CW

Do you still have the rear mounted load sensing valve? If so, you don't bleed the same as a "regular" braking system. Sorry I don't remember the sequence, but its a PIA, and if not done correctly, you will not get a good pedal. Do a search, its been posted a number of times. If you want to get rid of the valve and run 100% flo to the rear brakes, you will get a much better pedal and be able to bleed normally. CW

Check all you can find. As a matter of fact, make yourself some new ones!! NEVER HURTS!!! Behind the DS tail lite is a known problem ground.. CW

You could do that. Just don't go anymore than needed and be sure you use a good washer. Many factory plates have slotted holes to fit numerous axle diameters. CW

I would check your door alignment. I'm guessing that you have hinge problems looming... CW

Chicken abortions have too much cholesterol, DON'T EAT IT!! ;) :roll: LOL... CW

IIRC, the D35 is 2 9/16 and the D44 is 2 3/4.. close but not the same.. CW

Took the trailer out Saturday AM for a six hour round trip drive to my place in upstate New York. We used pops WJ, so had to flop a 6" drop hitch to a "rise" hitch just to level it out!! :roll: Damn lo riders... It was loaded up with about 800 lbs of "junk". It took the trip like a trooper. I tightened the bearing nuts just a bit and greased it up upon our return. Otherwise, it was perfect. I also had a chance to make the gate chains today. I want to be able to use the gate as a shelf, should I need it. I took some HD chain and cut out two links. Then flattened one side on each so that it angled out toward the other end of the chain. Then welded them on. Then cut a lighter piece of chain, a bit longer than needed and welded that to the top/end of the box. I was going to weld a second set of link then attach the chain between, but at the last moment decided to just weld the end link instead. I figured that I could always cut/grind it off if I don't like it after some use. I still need to pick up a set of "S" hooks and cut the rubber to go over the chain. Then I bent up a piece of 3/16X1" flat stock to mirror what I did on the MJ's hitch. This one is more for reinforcement than a safety chain mount. I welded it in the same. CW

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=253PiA7zIl4

VERY NICE!! GOOD JOB!!! :bowdown: CW

The addition of a free flowing muffler will do more for sound than for performance. Especially when nothing else is changed. Add a better intake in conjunction, like Mikeviera mentioned, you will feel a seat pf the pants improvement. As for brakes, forget the fancy rotors and WAY expensive ads. Most of our trucks have a single diaphragm booster and brakes designed for 205x15 tires... Add something like 31-33-35" tire's and the braking quality drops off the chart. Two of the best options are a WJ booster/Master cylinder swap. Omix-ada makes a complete kit to do the upgrade. Secondly a '96 XJ booster MC set-up from the pickNpull. CW

1) YES 2) YES 3) What indicator lites? The turn indicators? Or the brake/404/4LO lites? 4) YES, just be sure you get the floor mounted brackets as well as the console itself. you will need to do some drilling... CW

A G60-15 is 26.4" tall with a tread width of 9.7" @ 32 psi Rim width is not specfied... Google is your friend... :D CW

I don't remember!! :( :( :( I have been looking for more for some time!! I'm looking right now!! I THINK it was in a parts store called pep boys, but cannot be certain. If anyone else has seen them PLEASE let us know!! If I find some, I'll let you know. CW

Today I added a piece of 1/2" round stock for a safety chain mount. First I bent up a piece of stock. Than I tried a couple positions. Cleaned off all the paint and re clamped for welding.. MAN it was NO FUN welding upside down with slag dropping down your shirt, shorts and up your sleeves... Then I painted everything up... Image Not Found Its on and will suite my needs just fine! CW