WahooSteeler

I remember now that you told me you flew in to the Eagle's Nest a long time ago, but I forgot your truck was from around here. Wow, small world! I live 5 minutes from the "airport", and the takeoff and approach path for many planes is usually right over my house. Just crazy

Do you have any friends that live in areas where you might be willing to fly to buy the truck? That way someone can go put some eyes on it before you invest in a plane ticket and realize it's something you don't want to buy or may not be reliable enough for a looong drive home. The other idea with that is to have the seller take the truck to a dealer for you and get them to look it over mechanically including a compression check. Let the dealer know up front you don't intend to do any repairs you just want a thorough "look over" before you buy it because you are out of state. I say use a dealer because IMO it's less likely the seller has a relationship with the dealer like they might with an independent shop that could influence what the shop reports back to you. I took this approach when I bought my MJ out of St Louis 10yrs ago and fortunately got a pretty decent truck. I knew some people in the area through the company I was working for at the time and they recommended a dealer to take it to. I had tons of pics from the seller and was comfortable (enough) what I was getting regarding the body and typical rust areas etc. but wanted to make sure about the drivetrain. Still some definite risk involved but the info from the dealer inspection made me comfortable enough to take a chance. I considered the "fly and drive" approach also, but taking in to consideration the cost of a plane ticket, gas, meals, possibly a hotel room if I couldn't stay awake for the 15hr drive, and the possibility of breaking down along the way (which could end up making the whole situation VERY expensive), I looked in to having it transported. Quotes were all over the place but I ended up getting it shipped from St Louis to VA for $700. By my estimates at the time, that was about $200 more than the "fly and drive" approach, which for my time, the hassle and piece of mind was well worth it. I had a budget in mind for the truck and shipping and ended up getting it for $300 less than I was willing to spend. Like I said before, still a fair amount of risk buying a vehicle this way but the #1 piece of advice I'd give for making a long distance purchase.....PATIENCE.

In addition to checking with Yellaheep, check with SaveevryJp on here, he has ton's of parts and may have the mirror delete piece.

You can literally see a drip come from the crank. The oil is brand new, like 10 miles on it, hence the lighter color IMO.

Got at least a good layer of grease off the block today, valve cover and around the pan and bellhousing. Laid under the truck for a good while and then took this video that, I believe, confirms the source was and still is the RMS unless there is something else in that area I am unaware of. I observed the dizzy base and oil filter adapter for several minutes two or three different times while the truck remained idling for @30mins. Valve cover stayed clean and at least where I could see where the head meets the block I didn't see anything fresh. But I need to clean the rear of the block better and observe again just to be sure. I also observed a very very minor drip at the left front corner of the pan, not sure if the tech under or over tightened it when reinstalling from the RMS job. I could see where he did a good job of cleaning the bottom of the block and they used a Felpro gasket. But, it'll be going back this week to get the RMS redone! I had just wiped clean the bell-housing before I started the video. The drip from the RMS happens about every 30 seconds, but of course that's while sitting at idle. RMS_Leak_Oct_18.mp4

http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ 3" leaf packs and 3" Rough Country coils I've got a pair of the RC 3" coils I'll sell.......

Jeff, followed Cruiser's logical advice of starting up high and working down when I started replacing gaskets and seals. Like I said above, I've been hesitant to clean the engine under the theory if oil is getting OUT somewhere, water and cleaners can get IN, but it's time to get it cleaned and just be patient with doing it carefully so I can identify the true source. My entire block has a couple millimeter thick coating of grease from all the years so it is probably hard to determine if that's the source. As of now my plan this weekend is to clean it the best I can and probably pro-actively replace the dizzy gasket since I can do that on my own. What about getting it steam cleaned to really get it good in all the tight and hard to reach areas?

I don't have any of the symptoms of a blown head gasket, with the exception of lately I've had high temps on highway use or when I'm also running A/C. Normal stop and go w/out AC on temps are fine. But I digress. So if it's the dizzy gasket, that will be the most expensive dizzy gasket repair job ever.........when added together with my RMS replacement cost. But I'll still be happy the leak is fixed and I'm sure it was only a matter of time on the RMS. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

Not trying to be a smartazz, but "What side of the vehicle is the leak on? Is the oil only showing up on the lower half of the block? The back only?", you asked so I answered. As I said in the OP, the truck has had a steady drip for years, it has 220k miles. This is not new, the entire block has a coating of oil and grease buildup from all these years. I have been hesitant to put any substantial water/soap or degreaser on the engine until I got some other things buttoned up, but that is a step I need to take now. Never thought of the distributor gasket, worth a look. My fear, of course, is the head gasket and that being another very labor intensive $$$ repair.

Krypto, it hits the ground about dead center at the back of the block. Understood on running downhill, hence why I started with the valve cover and moved my way down oil filter adapter and then RMS. Just had a new oil pan gasket put on with the RMS job.

If you don't go off-road much or need a true "all-terrain" tire, check out General Grabber HTS60's.........solid all-season tire with great ratings and Generals are usually very price competitive

My truck has always had a small drip since I got it several years ago but it was not much of a concern since I only used it for weekend trash runs, yard work, when it snowed, and an occasional trip out to a friend's hunting camp. I typically drove it only @3k miles a year. Fast forward to now and it is essentially my son's daily driver for at least the next couple of years until I give him my car and get a new DD for myself. With daily use and occasional highway trips of at least 30+ miles, I want to eliminate the oil leak(s). On the highway, with more leakage due to high rpms and hot thinned out oil hitting the exhaust pipe, it looks like I'm driving a crop-duster with the amount of smoke billowing from under the truck. Embarrassing to say the least LOL. So, one by one recently I have had the following done: 1) valve cover gasket, 2) oil filter adapter with new O-rings, 3) rear main seal. I can't say I was surprised the leak continued after the new valve cover gasket or even the oil filter adapter. Even though I am only the second owner, I assumed the rear main seal had never been done and was the likely cause, being a Jeep of course. I was a bit disheartened when I picked it up today from the RMS being replaced and the leak remains. The owner of the shop that did the work was off today, so I did not have a chance to talk to him about it. I have known him a long time and trust what he says. The tech that worked on it drives a 93 XJ. That does not guarantee he is an ace at working on Jeeps or if he's ever done a RMS, but based on the relationship I have with the owner I trust he would not have put this guy on the job if he didn't know what he is doing and I know he's been a wrench for many years. So the question is where to look next? I have an idea what the replies will be saying, but I'm hoping it's not "that" (trying not to jinx myself by avoiding saying anything specific LOL) and that my education continues with other possible causes that are easier and less expensive repairs than "that". My plans have always been to keep the truck for a looong time, so I have put a lot of money in to it the past year to make it a reliable and a safe DD for my son. But it's starting to wear me down, or I should say, wear out my wallet! Unfortunately I don't have the time, proper tools or necessary skills to do hard-core wrenching like a RMS, so repairs like that are an expensive and direct hit to my bank account!

Took a little bit but found the thread about WJ upper LCAs that I referenced when ordering.........all good.

Ok, last confirmation on the uppers......what year(s) Grand Cherokees are the correct replacement? The ones I received have an arch in the center. I researched this before I bought them but that was a while ago and they've been sitting in the box until now and I'm second guessing myself. I believe I ordered uppers for a 2001 WJ.

Ok thanks.......does the same hold true on the LCA's from center to center?

When I had WJ lower control arms installed, they appeared to be a bit longer than stock, even with the end(s) rounded off. Installing uppers now and they appear a touch shorter. Is this accurate?

Congrats on the promotions and engagement Knuck! Sounds like you have a great head on your shoulder and your priorities right. It's impressive to see someone in your generation that not only knows what they want to do, but are willing to go the extra mile to make a name for yourself. Cheers to a long a fruitful marriage and career!

Oops.......just signed on and didn't see I already had a PM, saveeveryjp messaged me he has a couple.

I'll take it....Message me details on price and when it will be available please.

Looking for 87-90 Renix intake hose/tube, mine has a tear in it. '91 and up are a-plenty, but Renix ones seem hard to come by. Different at the TB connection hence the need for Renix specific

Isn't the last one off the line known to be green? https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-jeep-comanche-pickup-4x4/6687192736.html

https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/d/truck-bed/6687728001.html

https://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/d/87-jeep-comanche/6702812867.html

That will work, but those AAL's are the type that really produce a rough ride because they are short with a lot of arch that go near the bottom of the pack vs. a longer leaf with more subtle arch that goes under your main leaf. I mentioned using a main leaf with the eyes cut off from another Comanche, some have also done the same with an XJ main leaf. Skyjacker and Rancho offer longer AAL's for the MJ. Probably a good idea of doing a search in this section for "add a leaf" or "AAL" and read different opinions and feedback. The biggest pro of AAL's is simply bang for your buck. Some owners don't mind the rougher ride, many have reported it was just too harsh. Worst case you try them and don't like them or upgrade to full replacement packs and sell the AAL's to somebody else just wanting a cheap lift. Best price: https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31405

You can get 2" pucks for the front and either shackles or an add-a-leaf for the rear. If you are not familiar, there are not many Comanche specific lift shackles but plenty of them for Cherokees, but they are not the same length. That said, you'll get 1/2 of the advertised lift from a XJ Cherokee shackle, i.e. if it says it will lift a Cherokee rear 2", you'll get @1" on a Comanche. That actually should do the trick for leveling it out and giving you more clearance for the 31's. An AAL spring is a cheap, short-term solution but are known to produce a very rough ride over stock. Many guys have grabbed an extra main leaf from a Comanche or S10 and added it to their leaf pack, it's a more contouring fit and rides better. Not sure if you want to go through the trouble of breaking down a spring pack and putting it back together though. If you want a true lift in the back eventually you are best served, IMO, of getting true lift springs as they are still available from a few mfrs. But for now, for less than $100 you could get the pucks and shackles and achieve a small lift and leveling.