87manche

it WILL pop. like I stated, I never broke a shaft, never had problem one on the trail. Last trail use it saw was over a month ago, and I run 31's on the street. but last night it decided that it was checking out, the D35 is a total pile, replace it as soon as you can.

that doesn't make sense, I took a tape measure to my jcr's and they lined up. I may have been mistaken. I will double check.

the draglink is not a hard part to source, I believe my brother spent about $80 on it at the dealership, including new TRE's. The fabrication part is eliminate if you get the JKS bracket for the over axle trackbar part, you just have to weld it on. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... e=FABParts I lied though, it's a $50 bracket.

I'll be headed to the cherokee crawl in june. I don't know if you're coming or not. 2wd leaves would be perfect, so I could go SOA and not end up with 6+ inches in the back. Hang on to those for me, I'm not in a great hurry for them, so we can work something out. I'd also like to thank Pete for heading out of his way tomorrow to bring me an 8.8 I'm all warm and fuzzy inside. Finally gonna have a decent rear axle. I always worried about the d35 when wheeling, just never thought it would pop on the street.

with 6" of lift you're going to be maxing out the TRE's on the draglink and the trackbar. Get the trackbar sorted out, and then look into an OTK steering setup. You can do it with stock jeep parts and some goforit flip inserts. You'll need a RHD draglink, and a solid stock zj tie rod. You drill out the knuckles and then tack weld the flip inserts in, so you can run the tie-rod over the knuckle. You'll have to modify the swaybar brackets, and likely have to relocate your trackbar. JKS makes a 30 dollar bracket for the trackbar that's quite nice, it just needs to be welded on your D30. voila, cheep OTK conversion. This will lessen the angle on your trackbar and your draglink, and get the tie rod up to a safer postion.

if going through all the trouble of changing out the pump and lines I would recommend a small transmission cooler plumbed in. At winterfest my power steering hated me for turning 34's in the rocks. The fluid was water thin and I could hear the pump cavitating. a cooler brand new at the parts store was $30, and came with all the hoses I needed. Cheap insurance against killing the new pump and gear box if you wheel it.

so I got curious and had to find the numbers. a 1/4" grade 8 fastener had a shear strength of 4700 lbs a 7/16" gr8 bolt has a shear strength of 15900 and a 1/2" gr8 bolt has a shear strength of 21300 I went out and looked at the bolts supplied by JCR, they were not 3/8, but rather 7/16. So, a single gr8 7/16 bolt is capable of almost 16K pounds of force before it shears. I think it's gonna be alright, considering there are 6 of thsoe holding it to the tie in plates.

I've snapped 5/8 bolts with a big enough breaker bar, but that's a torsional load and not a shear load. I think it would take a lot more to break it under a shear load.

I'm still not sure I would weld them on like that, because then if you had to take off the bumper to get at anything, or even to repaint it you'd have to unbolt the steering box. After fighting to get it back into place the other day for 45 minutes, I don't think I'm ever unbolting that bastard again, until it breaks. The JCR bumper bolted to the plates using the stock three holes, I think that they would be more than sufficient. Not sure what the breaking point is for 3/8 gr8 bolts, but it's gotta be a lot.

see above :)

I've not got rears, I've got the stock coils. I need to find another set of rears myself, I've managed to bend my drivers side main leaf a bit. SHould have bumpstopped :cry:

I guess I'll need to know what it would cost to ship it to 91390 and if it will work in our stock '87 d35 with 4.11's. shipping will be from 44805 if your stock d35 is a non c clip it will work. If you want to cover shipping on some spare axleshafts I'll send a set for nothing. I'm going to guess that it would work in your axle though, I don't think they went c-clip until chryco took over, the axle it's in is from a 90, and my stock 87 d35 was a non c clip as well.

yeah I may take you up on that, it would save me the trip down there, and give me time to put my spare d35 under the manche on saturday. You want to stop by here and pickup cash first, or pay you when you drop it off? You're welcome to pick through the parts pile outback as well, got some stock springs and such back there.

I'm in ashland, right on 71. You'll pass right by me. that's what i didn't get, they list them as complete, but he told me no brakes.,

if you drop the pitman arm and not the trackbar mount you will have bumpsteer. How bad it gets is really subjective. The other thing to consider is that with a dropped arm you're applying more leverage to the output of the box, and the box itself. So I would really want to reinforce that area.

man, sounds like they hook up locals that go in. Guy I talked to really didn't sound like he wanted to talk on the telephone. If it's less than $150 with the calipers and everything I would take one. Not to be picky, but see if you can't find out if it's open carrier out LS, I'd rather have an open carrier so I can put an aussie in it.

yeah, mines not in the best of shape, but the handle just has some surface rust.

well, even $10 calipers aren't that bad. The other place told me $45 a piece for the caliper and bracket. so if they want $120 for the axle and it's brakes that is still a good deal.

I have decided that the MJ will get the rustoleum hammered paint. I know that the texture will look weird on an auto, but it has a nice gloss, is easy to touch up because the texture hides stuff, and it will also hide my crap body work.

don't know who I talked to. but I asked if they came with calipers and caliper brackets, he told me no. not really concernd with the warranty, but I don't want to buy new brake stuff, exploder rear brakes will cost $200 for the brackets and calipers.

when my bed goes away I will keep you in mind for my tailgate.

the 8.8 is super stout I'm on the hunt for one right now. Cheapest I can locate one that still has it's calipers and mounting brackets is about $250-$300. So a complete 8.25 for $100 or so would be a pretty good deal. either way you're putting new perches on it, so if the extra money for disc brakes and bigger shafts/ring gear is up to you. What size tires you planning? I've seen locked 8.25's stand up to 33's and heavy right feet no problem. I'd even say you could probably run 35's if you babied it. Hell, I ran 34's on my d35, and it didn't blow up on the trail, it popped on the street.

I just called them, he said $100, no warranty, and it doesn't come with calipers or caliper brackets. I can get that 15 miles from me, but the calipers and mounting brackets are pricey items if you don't have cores. Maybe I need to have you call

locker is up for sale, I've not pulled it yet since the axle is under the truck, but it's in decent shape. I'll get pictures this weekend when I pull the carrier. Amazingly enough the locker still works just fine. I initially thought it was the detroit that failed, so I function checked it before I pulled the cover.

is that the big pick n pull south of columbus? The goal is to swap in my 3.07 geared one this weekend, so I can drive it, and then go and get an 8.8 If what you're saying is true I will call them. Do you have the number by chance?