87manche

goto junkyard, buy used road tires. buy LTB's for trail use. I'll give you a set of steel rims for the road tires. I found my 34x9.5s on rockcrawlers for $450, and I just bought a set of 235 road tires for $80. Used is the cheapest place.

I feel that I flame when appropriate. I always try and provide an answer though, even if I do flame for not searching. It's just that some people irritate me. WHen someone asks a question that has an identical thread still on the first page it bothers me.

I apologize for that, but I am always right. :)

don't cut the rear. I cut mine out pretty substantially to fir the 34's. It wasn't needed, they would have fit with 3" of lift and a small amount of bumpstopping.

get some skinnier rims for those tires. I've got mine on the same rims (came with the tire deal) and I have bead issues at anything less than 15 PSI. The sidewalls don't start to really flex until you get down to 12, so it's an issue. I'm looking for some 15x6's for mine. pizza cutters are awesome though, I run mine with 4" of lift, be prepared to cut the fenders.

when I do mine, I think it's the frame itself is getting sleeved, and the bolt hols will also be sleeved. but longarms are way in the future for the 87.

I think that the problem is not so much the xmember, but rather the four stock mounting points holding it to the frame. First, they're not in a shear arrangement, just going through the bottom of the uniframe into some nutcerts. The sheetmetal just isn't strong enough there to take any kind of serious force, it was after all only meant to support the weight of the trans. fix that, and some of the scary steering stuff and it would be nice.

don't hate on the scort wagon, those things are tanks, and will hold a surprising amount of weight in the back, provided the rear coils aren't broken like they always do. the Honda has proven a worthwhile investment, and even though the 4 squirrels only make about 80 HP it's fun to drive through the twisties. Amazing how a 2K lb car will handle corners, even with $#!& tires.

NAXJA is a funny creature. the web persona's are vastly different from real life. most everyone I've actually met has been a cool dude, and the MWC is a great group of guys. There is a reason we have our own forum though ;)

check the front sockets themselves, and the rear sockets themselves. Look for a trailer wiring harness in the back. I've seen those installed improperly do all sorts of weird stuff.

John, check that your front light sockets are grounding properly, and that they haven't somehow crossed your hazard circuit into the mix at the rear. I had very similar things happening in my 87 when I bought it. Turns ou the grounds in the front sockets were shot.

embrace the sawzall!!!

have you seen my truck?

yes.

well, my day job is computers. At the time I was young, had too much money and liked to play video games. It was also a challenge. engineering a water cooling system to dissipate the kind of thermal energy I was developing was pretty cool. I'm going to type some stuff now, your eyes will likely roll into your skull. A duron 600 thunderbird core dissipates about 80W of heat from a die smaller than a dime. After I upped the core voltage and the clock speed I figured mine was putting out about 170W of heat. In order to keep the transistors stable at that kind of core voltage you have to keep it running real cool. the chips were specced to run at 85* C, but that was the top of the thermal limits. Mine ran nominally at about 55C. but this was after quite a bit of engineering, and a 300 GPH pump feeding into a large heatercore. The thermal load was sufficient to heat my room. Just think of it like rockcrawling for nerds, there's no NEED for you to truggy a perfectly good MJ, you just got there because it was an end to a means. Ok so let me get this straight... you put a Clock in your computer :???: Then you heated your room with the heat off of it :dunno: I guess tis is why I never made it as a nerd :roll: OK, let me try and explain the basics of a CPU in one hundred words or less. A CPU is made up of millions of transistors, they're basically microscopic on/off switches. On=1 Off=0 This is how a CPU does work, by switching them on and off rapidly. A CPU running at 600 MHz does this 600 times a second. By increasing the clock speed you increase how many ops you can do a second, thereby increasing the speed of your calculations. Unfortunately everytime one of those transistors switches state it generates heat, and consumes electricity. So, in oder to run a processor at a faster than designed speed you must increase the core voltage, so that the transistors remain stable. Increasing the core voltage increase the amount of heat you must dissipate. As does increasing the core's clock speed. So when you increase the voltage AND the speed you end up with something the size of a dime producing enough heat to heat a room. water cooling and submersion cooling are more effective at removing that heat form the core than air to air heatsinks. Think of it like a diesel. You want to have more power, so you up the boost. When you up the boost you also must add more fuel, both of those make your EGT's go up.

nothing mechanical. the fluid would ruin the HDD. THe HDD arm rides on a thin cushion of air between the read/write head and the platters.

how dare you say that 3" is not enough to do anything serious with! I plan on going no higher than the 4" I'm at now, and liked 3" with 34's. Low lift wheeling is where it's at.

two words: speed bleeders goto your local parts store, I know that advance carries them, in the Help! section you'll find speed bleeders. They are by far the handiest thing I ever put on the truck when it comes to maintenance. Just crack the bleeder, and keep pumping the pedal.

castrol makes good stuff. cames from the factory in a lot of top end sports cars. the camry get's mobil 1 because the yota 5sfe engines have sludge problems that result in oil starvation, and a blown motor. The $#!&box honda got some walmart synthetic, because I don't care, but I did put a decent filter on it. the jeep get's whatever cheapest name brand conventional is on sale that week, EXCEPT pennzoil and quaker state, I dislike them. I know that napa's house brand is made by valvoline, so I'll use that when it's on sale.

I put my switch in that same location, but I wired it to run even with the motor off. so I can turn off the motor on the trail and still run the cooling fan to cool the power steering cooler and to limit the thermal expansion of the coolant when the motor was shut off from the heat soak in the block.

my oil get's dirty when four wheeling because it's got 260K miles on it and I beat on it in 4lo. it's gonna be so cool when I can wheel and have a DD waiting for the trip to work on Monday.

no need to use an MJ as your 4WD donor. Cherokees are cheap and plentiful, and will have all the same drivetrain parts.

for a trail truck, I change it anytime it sees deep water, and about every three times it sees the dirt. which is why it doesn't get synth, because I change it rahter frequently. I'd rather have fresh cheap oil, than old expensive oil. Simply because it get's dirty quick if you're offroad.

x2 on the x-member, mine's getting cut up in the fall :evil:

all that, and you forget to put 80/90W in a new differential???? :D (sorry, had to bust yer stones a bit there :jump: ) Jeff man, I finished swapping that axle in at 11 PM, and didn't feel like waiting for the RTV to dry. Should have left a note on my steering wheel. but that about sums me up, it's always a simple thing forget