87manche

get Ho bottomend, take renix head to machine shop. Drop the $200 it's gonna cost at the machine shop for them to grind it flat, put new valve guides and such in. Put rebuilt renix head on good bottom end, voila, cheap and easy rebuild. all your renix stuff will work if you use the renix head and manifolds.

orange wire should be fuel pump 12v+ black or brown will be ground.

I'll second that, I picked up my swampers for $450, mounted on 15x8s with 90% tread.

no problem, glad it was nothing major.

I would agree, $250 is what popped into my head if I was looking at a nice clean bed. I agree with Pong wholeheartedly. Flatbed it from the get go, I'm kinda sad that I destroyed a rust free bed, given that they're so hard to come by.

those 33x9.5 BFGs? it's not a poular size. I really like my 34x9.5 swampers, and I think I'll like them even more once they're on the new 15x7's.

put a DMM probe in the plug on the chassis side and make sure you have continuity to the frame. if you messed with the taillight harness at all that's probably the problem, the pump shares it's ground with the drivers side tail light I believe.

eggzachary. That should make it strong enough to take a real good pull with no worries. I would however make sure that the side piec runs all the way to the front of the bracket, so that side pulls don't tear the side pieces from the bottom piece. honestly, if going that far, I would grab the power steering pump bolts as well, just because it's a weak area, and reinforcing it now is a whole lot easier than welding up cracks in sheetmetal. It's very nice work though, better looking than my nasty flux core welds.

is it grounded?

yeah, the HF store is 18 miles from my house, so it's a frequent stop. can't say that I'll buy critical tools there, but it's good for consumables like cutting wheels and such, and the random use tools like the balljoint press. Seriously considering that tire mount machine they have.

scramblers are awesome. I'd say I would even consider selling the MJ for a scrambler.

I'll have my 15x8 black steelies off the truck the end of this week. got new wheels for my junk.

have you checked the start relay up front, it's that odd little metal box all the fusible links are atached to. if it was shorted or otherwise wonky it could do some weird stuff. Otherwise, I'd jumper the relays to get power where it needed to go and try to start it.

be mindful that the TNT kit is not a direct bolt on to the MJ, you have to notch one of the cab supports to make it fit. I'm sure if you called TNT they'd be able to tell you. silly station wagons didn't have all the extra steel we've got ;)

not the power steering box bolts, behind that about 6". There is a sleeved hole in the frame rails, it was used by the factory tow hook brackets, and the factory hidden winch. Extend your bracket up to that, and it uses a 1/2 or 9/16 bolt, way strong.

a 90 should have the same cable. it may be a slightly different length depending on drivetrain options. It does come out of the t-case, there's a housing with a gear in there. You might want to check that the gear isn't stripped, and then work your way out from there. Mine rusted where the crimped fittings went together, I pushed the ends of the cable back together and used a hose clamp to hold it in place. It worked for ayear, but it's come loose again recently. Anyway, inspect it, it may simply have come undone. If you have to replace it, you'll have to pull the dash bezel and the cluster at the very least, but you should be able to get it done without taking the entire dash off. When you take the cluster out you have to reach behind it and release the cable from the speedo. There are two kinds of clips, one you squeeze and it releases, I'm not sure how the other comes undone. might be worth picking up a haynes manual for the dash disassembly, it's not hard, but might be worth it for someone that's never done it before.

I'm so glad there's a retail HF store by me. No mor shipping on things like that.

I forgot to mention, if you want to do radius arms, you could probably buy the TNT crossmember, then just build the arms yourself.

maaaayybe ;)

91's had an electronic speedo, you need a cable from 87-90. yes, it's likely the cable. Mine broke down by the t-case, simply rusted in two. It can also come loose behind the dash.

I like it, but why not extend that side piece up and grab the sleeved hole in the frame?

cragars are about the cheapest steel wheel you can find. Since you're all about the anti trim, have you considered 33x10.5's? BFG makes those in MT and AT. Those on some rims with about 4" of BS should tuck into the fender. with 15x8's and 3.75" of backspacing, my 34's tuck underneath the fender, this was at 3" of lift. So, figure in your extra lift and you shouldn't have to trim anything. Besides, skinny is cool :)

doesn't take up bench space. easier to move into the center of the shop when you're working on large pieces.

the uni body plates are standard with all the winch bumpers. To say that it's cheesy isn't fair. How many mall crawlers out there have aftermarket bumpers with no tie in plates. They're just building what people want. That said, the designs are simple, box bumpers. I like my JCR, it all bolted up with no issues, and all the holes were spot on. They're relatively cheap, simple and strong.

duplicolor makes a wheel paint. not sure if there's anything special or not. I painted steelies with rustoleum.