Eagle

The newest Jeeps have gone away from 5 on 4.5. The WJ is 5 on 5, IIRC, and I think the new Patriot is the same.

The same bolt pattern is also used by a tremendous number of Ford vehicles and many Chrysler vehicles, as well as virtually all AMC vehicles. If you're considering factory rims from other brands, however, be advised that the Jeep rims use a slightly smaller center hole than many and some other brands of rims won't seat because the center hole doesn't fit around the hub ring. Also be aware of backspacing, which is the distance from the mounting surface IN (toward the vehicle centerline) to the inner edge of the rim. The factory backspacing is 5-1/4". There are no known rims, aftermarket or other brands of factory rims, with that much backspacing. Be careful choosing rims. The bolt pattern isn't the only thing you need to match.

You'd better find some other reports to read. Unless this was talking about AR-15 ammo (.223/5.56mm), it's totally off base. Whoever wrote that must have been dining on some VERY powerful mushrooms. In fact, unless you hit just right there's an excellent chance that a .22 to the head will bounce right off rather than penetrate the skull. Unless it's all you've got and all you CAN get, don't even think of a .22 plinking pistol as a self-defense "weapon." It ain't.

A/C from an 87 or 89 is fully compatible with an 88. But I strongly recommend that you replace the evaporator. You have to pull the dashboard to install it. I happened to be at a radiator shop today, getting the second radiator in my '88 XJ diagnosed as DOA, and I saw FOUR Jeeps in the shop (three XJs and one WJ). Naturally I asked. They were ALL in for new evaporators. The guy showed me one of the ones that came out, and he showed me why they get eaten up and fail. Pulling the dashboard is a thankless job. You do NOT want to do it twice. Get a new heater core and a new evaporator, put 'em both in, and be done with it.

Wrong. VERY wrong. I'm not at all opposed to CCW. In fact, I think in today's world it's a wise and almost necessary precaution. But DO NOT THINK that a .22 would even slow down a bad guy, especially if he's high on drugs. Most police departments that went to 9mm for their duty weapons a few years ago have now gone back to .45 or switched to .40 S&W because the 9mm doesn't have enough stopping power to quickly stop assailants. There are innumerable cases of bad guys who have absorbed multiple hits with .45 ACP and still kept on fighting. I can almost guarantee that 10 shots of .22 will not stop an attacker. Plus, you probably won't get off ten shots anyway. Most self-defense shooting take place at a distance of less than 10 feet. A number of years ago a Utah police lieutenant ran some experiments with his officers, and found that a knife-wielding assailant could cover 21 feet in 1.5 seconds -- which was the time it took a uniformed patrol officer to draw his weapon and fire ONE shot. You won't be drawing from an exposed holster, so you won't get the first shot off in 1.5 seconds. And if you need to shoot, most likely your assailant won't be 21 feet or more away. Don't kid yourself. .22s are great for plinking and target shooting, but they are worse than useless for self-defense. I say "worse" because if you don't have a gun you know you have to escape. If you think the .22 gives you a chance to fight rather than escape, that's worse than having nothing because it could cost you your life.

Not so fast, Gonzalez. The 258 is the SAME block as the 4.0L. The length is exactly the same and the motor mounts are exactly the same. However, I agree that trying to drop a 258 in place of a 4.0L is a bit retarded. The only way to make the injection work is to swap the 4.0L head and manifolds onto the 258 and, depending on why the 4.0L engine doesn't run, that may not be a good choice. On the other hand, if the head is in good shape, it's an interesting way to get an injected stroker engine. Just remember that some years of the 258 had a narrower block and head than the 4.0L and if yours is one of those, you'll have to block off a couple of coolant passages on the head to avoid dumping all the coolant.

It could still be anywhere in the wire between the relay and the horn. In fact, if the relay clicks it is more likely NOT the relay itself, but that can be checked by plugging in a different relay.

Taking it apart is easy. Putting it back together correctly, without losing any of those little recirculating balls, is not so easy.

As far as I know, NO 9 inch fits the Cherokee. That doesn't mean that somebody couldn't stuff one under a Cherokee. The track may be different from a stock Cherokee, or they may have used rims with a different offset to keep the tires under the flares. What size tires do you plan to run? I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest that you may be better off swapping in a stock XJ axle. The best choice would be a 97+ Mopar 8-1/4. Easier to find (and cheaper than) a Dana 44, and nearly as strong. I am sorry to see you buying into the myth about lockers being dangerous in winter, though. On ice or in snow, even a Trac-Lok stays locked and I don't hear about thousands of Jeep Cherokees with limited slip axles crashing in January because they are inherently "dangerous." Dang! We get snow in New England, believe it or not, and I couldn't make it through a winter without a traction device of some kind. Open rear in winter? Just shoot me!

I think I would have remembered some other plans right quick, too :chillin: :cheers:

Dan - Yes, of course it will work. See the last paragraph of my quote above. The Catch-22 is that you must forever remember that you have a 1990 front axle and order anything for the front (rotors, hubs, calipers, brake pads( for the '90. The hub offsets are incrementally different and if you mix '87 calipers and/or rotors on the '90 hub ... they won't rotate. As long as you remember to order the correct parts for the axle, it's just fine. Print out a copy of that listing I posted, it'll help you keep track of what you can and can't interchange. One other factor to remember is that the 90+ rotors are the crappy composite style rotors that warp if you speak harshly to them. If it were my choice, I would try to hold out for an '89 or earlier front axle, or else swap over the parts to enable me to keep using the '87 brakes. I've been a member of the "rotor of the month" club and I didn't enjoy it.

If you get a long or "full-length" (they aren't really full-length) AAL, it goes directly beneath the main leaf, unless your seond leaf is longer than the AAL in which case the AAL goes in the #3 position. You want the leaves to decrease in length in sequence. Don't bother with short, or "half-length" AALs, Those are the ones that have generated the AAL reputation for a stiff, choppy ride. If all you want is to make up the 1" that you're down in the back, I'll suggest the Rancho AAL that's listed in their catalog for the MJ. You'll notice they claim 2-1/2" -- but the same kit is also listed at 2-1/2" for the XJ. This is impossible. I called Rancho awhile back and asked. Spoke with a nice engineer chick, who went and checked with a couple of her colleagues, and the final answer was that it's 2-1/2" in the XJ and about 1-1/2" in an MJ. Perfect for leveling out an older truck, picking up a 2WD if you convert to 4WD, or just adding a bit of extra load capacity without getting into a "lift." Two is enough, but four is better. www.huskyspring.com BTW, MJ u-bolts do not interchange with XJ u-bolts. To further complicate the issue, both are metric. XJ u-bolts are 12mm (a hair less than 1/2" and MJ u-bolts are 14mm (approx. 9/16"). This makes the guys in spring shops go nuts. I've pretty much settled on 1/2" u-bolts from a commercial truck spring shop for both XJs and MJs. That way I don't have to keep two sizes around, and I'm comfortable that a new 1/2" u-bolt is as good as a rusted, bent, battered old 14mm u-bolt out a rusted, bent, battered old MJ. Anything is better than those cheap 7/16" "gold" plated u-bolts you see in the aisles at Pep Boys.

3.55 and 3.54 is normal. The two axles have different diameter ring gears and pinions. The tooth count can't be the same. The gear ratio is the number of teeth on the ring gear divided by the number of teeth on the pinion. Here's why the guy at the yard mentioned knuckles:

Monroe's entire catalog is on-line, last I knew. At the end of the catalog they have two sections that are of interest to us type people. First is the section that lists the shocks by length (extended and compressed) and by what type of fittings are on each end. Using that you can find shock numbers with the length and end fittings you need. Then there's an application listing, in which you look up the shock you just chose for length and it tells you what vehicle it is supposed to fit. Once you know that, you can shop other brands and sources for shock to fit that vehicle.

Budget boost. Rancho full-length AAL in the rear (about $50), and a pair of 1-3/4" coil spacers in the front. Done.

Pete's photo is an MJ valve, with the lower front (rear prop valve) line plugged and the "nose" line feeding directly to the rear axle. If you are swapping in an XJ proportioning valve, you don't plug anything. The two upper fittings are the inlets from the master cylinder and you leave them exactly as they were to the MJ valve. The lower rear outlet and the outlet at the "tail" feed the front brakes and are replaced exactly as they were in the MJ valve ... and as shown in Pete's photo. The line from the rear axle goes to the lower front outlet, the one that is shown plugged in Pete's photo. Run from that port directly to the upper end of the rear axle flex hose; do NOT use the rear proportioning valve when using an XJ combo valve in the front.

www.huskyspring.com

Beyond all doubt, THE best deal in the known universe for weld-on spring perches is your local Mopar dealer. They're in the Performance catalog, part number P4120074. They are slightly longer than the factory perches and also beefier. They are designed for a 3" OD tube but they work well with a D44. You won't believe the price. Most places want around $40 to $50 for a pair of perches that are grossly inferior to these. These sell for about $10 per pair.

I don't recall the tube diameter for a D35 and it's raining outside so I'm not going out to measure one right now. Let's guess it's 2-5/8". The mounting surface of the perch is probably offset from the axle by about 5/16", and when you weld on a new one on top of the axle that's going to be another 5"16" (or so). And then there's the spring pack -- four leaves at 1/4" plus the overload leaf at 1/2" 2.625 0.313 0.313 1.500 ------ 4.750 That's the minimum lift you'll get going SOA. If the axle tube is actually larger, or the perches have their mounting surface farther from the surface of the tube, the amount of lift goes up. So you really should be figuring 5" if you do SOA. If all you want to run is 31s, a 3" lift is MORE than enough. Even a 2" budget boost will be plenty. Remember, 31s will fit a stock height MJ just fine. On factory rims they stuff inside the flares. The rubbing you'll get is on the lower control arms at full steering lock, and a lift does NOT eliminate that.

Real world example. I pulled a decent set of Gabriel gas shocks out of the rear of an XJ I bought for the drive train. The 2WD SWB Comanche I have here needs rear shocks big time, so I thought I could possibly remove the bar pins and get by with them in the MJ. My initial measurements suggested they'd be just about maxed out at rest, but I thought they woud bolt in. So I chopped the end off each bar pin and pushed them out. When I tried to mount the shocks in the MJ, even fully extended they were about 1/2" too short. You can buy new shocks (stock height) from Pep Boys or Auto Zone for $10 each if you're in a bind. Don't even bother fooling around with XJ stuff. Not on the rear, anyway.

Halfway is exactly correct. The "marker" is a post inside the bottle, beneath the cap. Of course, you have to be at least 6'-9" tall AND double jointed to see it ... but that's the marker.

I think the Mopar 8.25 is 3" and the D44 is slightly smaller, but I can't find an actual spec. Measure again -- carefully.

Personally, I would seriously rethink doing the spring over. That's going to lift the rear at LEAST 5" and, as I've posted, I think it'll be closer to 6". Once you get into that much lift in the front, you NEED either drop brackets or a long arm kit, a heavy-duty adjustable track bar, adjustable upper and lower control arms, and probably a stretched front drive shaft. What are you going to be doing that absolutely requires that much lift? I bought my '88 MJ with a 4" lift in it, drove and wheeled it for two years, then I removed the lift aand went back to stock height. I couldn't be happier. Best mod I ever made.

:???: Huh? Where'd you get a front 8.25 axle from? I'm totally confused as to what you're going to do. If you don't install the rear 8.25 as a spring over, then you won't get any lift. So regardless of what you put under the front, you won't need longer springs or shocks.

It doesn't hold a candle to pushing the guidance director's Fiat sedan onto the auditorium stage during the senior class dinner. But go ahead. I hope your principal has a sense of humour. Our guidance director didn't ...