Eagle

You can't use the XJ spring perches -- the spacing isn't right for the MJ. But ... if you're doing a 3" lift in the front, you don't want to go spring-over in the rear anyway. That's going to net you a MINIMUM of 5" in the rear. You'll be better off staying with the MJ rear axle and doing a combination of full-length AAL and maybe a small shackle lift.

If you put a 4.0L tach into a 2.5L vehicle, the tach isn't reading correctly. Not unless you adjusted the potentiometer to correct for the number of cylinders. The tach will give a reading, it just won't be anything close to the actual engine RPM. Lemme rethink how this all works: Okay, for a 6-cylinder engine, three ignition pulses is one revolution of the crankshaft (which is what we want to measure -- engine revolutions per minute). So 3000 pulses equals 1000 RPM. For a 4-cylinder, 3 pulses equals 1-1/2 crankshaft revolutions. So 3000 pulses equals 1000 x 1.5 = 1500 RPM. If you have a 6-cyl tach in a 4-cyl vehicle, the engine is turning 50 percent faster than what the tach is telling you.

XJ and MJ bump stops are interchangeable. There are four heights -- it helps to know which you need. Crown Automotive makes them (and is probably QuadraTech's source). If you can't get 'em from QuadraTech, call Todd at Bradshaw Jeep (860-274-8834, Ext 3 for Parts) and he'll fix you up.

Some of the tachometers have a potentiometer on the back, some don't. I went through that with an XJ buddy in Greece. It was a few years ago and my recollection is fuzzy, but I believe the first generation (84 - 86) tachs are the ones that are not adjustable, and the second generation (87-90) are adjustable. Also not sure, but I think 87 may have been a transition year on the gauge clusters.

Merry Christmas, y'all. May Santa Claus be good to you, and let's hope the proverbial "Peace on Earth, Good Will to Men" becomes reality. And don't overdo it with the egg nog!

I don't know how they have it set up in Iraq or Afghanistan. When I was in Viet Nam, our "post office" was a conex container. The "postmaster" stood on the open door and read off names at mail call. Ain't nothin' lonelier than standing in the crowd in front of that Conex container and not hearing your name called ... again.

The problem is ... the kids DON'T learn when their friends get splattered. We had one here in CT just a couple of months ago. 17-year old kid. Had his license for a year and half. In that time he has TOTALLED six cars. One of the accidents put him in the hospital for several weeks and almost killed one of his friends. Plus he had multiple DUI citations and innumerable speeding tickets -- which his mother (an attorney) was able to get fixed. So with a record like that, mommy went out and bought him one of those Subaru rice rockets -- the fast one, with the spoiler that's bigger than the vehicle. So the dork picks up his younger sister and her friend at school. He's flying up a 2-lane suburban road at about 85 in a 40 zone. There's a dump truck stopped, waiting to make a left turn across on-coming traffic. The dork slams into the back of the dump truck, vaporizes the Subaru, and kills himself, his sister, and his sister's friend. You would not have believed the comments the newspaper quoted from his friends. Not ONE of them thought he was a lousy driver or that he was in any way at fault for KILLING two teen-age girls. Kids today are in total denial. They have no concept of reality, or responsibility. "It was the road's fault." "How could he have known there was a truck there?" :nuts:

If you had to back off on the caliper mounting bolts so they're not seated all the way, then everything is definitely NOT cool. I was thinking about your problem on my way to church this morning. I assume you bought the truck used. Suppose the previous owner had put the wrong rotors or the wrong calipers on? That could explain why your pads and rotors were so trashed.

A year or so ago I was able to buy a new winch assembly from the dealer. I'll bet the factory still has some,

What year is your truck? And what year rotor did you get? Did the bolt bottom out on both sides, or only the side with the new rotor? Jeep changed the hubs and rotors between 89 and 91. I think '90 was the first year of the "new" design, but I don't remember exactly. If you got the wrong rotor, it has a slightlky different offset and won't work with your original hub and knuckle and caliper. See if your new rotor looks the same and has the same thickness at the "hat" section that fits over the hub.

Take out the front parking lights and remove the bulbs from the sockets. Then try it with the 10-amp fuse. The sockets are often the problem.

The factory recommendation was 10W30, with an alternate recommendation of 10W40. In my '88 XJ (which I bought new) I ran 10W40 for the first 175,000 miles, then I changed to synthetic and I now run 5W50 because I had noticed the oil pressure was a bit low (40 psi) at highway speeds on long trips. But I'm now at 268,000 miles so a slight reduction in oil pressure isn't a surprise.

To have a 4WD clutch replaced at a shop? Using quality parts, not junk? Ball park, between $600 and $800 182,000 miles on the original clutch? Yeah, you're living on borrowed time. The original clutch on my '88 XJ 4.0L went 204,000 miles, but nobody makes clutches last as long as I do.

Actually, the cross members are the same but the tranny mounts are all different. And, depending on the tranny, the cross member can mount in one of two locations -- which happen to be 4" apart. If you look carefully at your frame rails, you'll see another set of holes that you can use to relocate the cross member.

Man, I'm confused. Are you asking if the caliper mounting bolts should push on the pads? Hell, no! The mounting bolts go through sleeves and should allow the calipers to slide sideways. The only thing pushing on the pads should be the caliper pistons.

I don't think it gets any better. CT has had a law against driving while using a cell phone for two years now, and it is universally ignored -- by drivers, and by the police. I was nearly broadsided recently as I proceeded through a traffic light that had clearly turned green for me. The other driver didn't see it turn red for her. It was a young woman who (naturally) was so busy gabbing on the cell that she wasn't paying any attention to what was happening. She slammed on the brakes and stopped about 15 inches short of t-boning my driver's door. And had the nerve to glare at me like it was MY fault she had to stop for the damned red light. What I find curious is that I know from my own experience that using a cell phone while driving is a serious distraction -- even using a hands free device or a bluetooth. Yet I've driven all over the country, yakking on a CB radio, and somehow that never becomes the same degree of distraction. I think it has to be that "telephone" is so much a part of our daily lives that when we get into a "telephone" conversation the part of our brain that says "Hey, I'm driving a 3,000-pound guided missile, I should probably pay attention" gets switched off. But our brain associates CB radios (thanks, perhaps, to Burt Reynolds and Smokey and the Bandit) with trucks and with DRIVING. I've never once felt that I've lost track even for a nanosecond of the fact I'm driving while using the CB radio. Which is why I'm so glad the CBs flew under the radar when the state passed the law against using a cell phone while driving.

Oil filter o-rings Distributor

The knock sensor doesn't have much effect on gas mileage, if any. And it won't change the idle speed enough for that to tell you if it works. You need two people -- you have to clean up the timing marks on the front of the engine and harmonic damper (yes, even though timing is not adjustable, the old marks are still there). Put a timing light on it, see where the mark is when idling, then watch to see if the mark jumps when you hit the block. My guess is that you probably need an oxygen sensor.

Ouch! Just shows that the old adage about "staying with the flow of traffic" isn't a universal fail-safe. Was your speedo indicating anywhere near 49 MPH, or have you put on oversized tires and not corrected the speedo?

I bought it new in January of 1988. I don't wheel it every weekend, and once I started wheeling the MJ the XJ sort of got retired to primarily street use, but in its day it has seen multiple trails in CT (yeah, right -- all two of them), most of Paragon except for the real hard-core stuff, Old Florida road and nearby trails in MA, and a now-closed trail in RI a few times. Plus some back-country sightseeing in northern New Mexico. So it hasn't been just a pavement pounder. But I don't abuse it. I do not regard breaking something as evidence of a good day wheeling, I regard it as proof that I screwed up.

You mean if my factory u-joints had been greasable they would have lasted 280,000 miles instead of crapping out at a measly 260,000? Dayyum, I sure wish I'd a knowed that.

96 was the first year of OBD-II, but it was a crude implementation compared to the 97. Really more like OBD-1.5. But the 94 engine should be fine with the newer computer. Just use the sensors from the newer engine. You should also check the injectors, I don't know for sure but they used a couple of different sizes through the Chrysler years and the 96 injectors may be larger than the 94.

It is likely a Dana 35, but it is possible that it's a Dana 44. They don't look at all alike. Look at the pictures posted in this thread, then go look at your differential. If the cover is oval, it's a D35. If the cover is trapezoidal, it's a D44.

Greasable u-joints? For the axle shafts? Don't bother. There isn't enough room for the Zerk fittings, so if you get the greasable ones you'll grease them once, then remove the fittings and reinstall the plugs to put them into the vehicle. To me it makes more sense to get the pre-lubed ones and be done with it.

MUCH more trouble than it's worth. You do need to replace both the inner and outer bearings. By the time you buy both bearings and the seals necessary to do the job, you're about 50 cents short of buying a complete hub assembly. If you have an 87 -89 you can rebuild the hubs -- if you're the masochistic type. The hubs changed in 90 (I think -- might have been 91). The newer style is NOT rebuildable, and does NOT interchange with the preceding style.