Eagle

Measure from the center of your front hubs to the bottom edge of the flares. That's your reference dimension. Take out your front coils and cut a half coil off each spring. Put 'em back in and measure again. That probably won't drop it as much as you want, but it'll give you an idea how much drop you'll get per coil. Just remember that when you cut, the spring gets stiffer. If the coils are 1" apart, cutting one coil probably won't drop it a full inch. Measuring someone else's coils won't help you much. Coil spring rate is a function of a complicated formula that includes the free length of the spring, the number of coils, the diameter of the wire and the diameter of the coils. I don't have the formula in front of me, but one of those variables in the formula is to the 4th power. If any factor of another spring is different from yours (wire diameter, for example), comparing them is a waste of everyone;s time and effort.

Congrats on getting the job. I can't advise on salary negotiations. It's been a LONG time since I was in school looking for a summer job. My recollection is that I was so happy to have a job I took what was offered. For a couple of months, it doesn't make a lot of difference anyway. Just be sure you don't try too hard and negotiate your way out of a job.

The computers are different, but the harness is the same. My 88s (MJ and XJ) are 5-speeds and they have the unused connector for the tranny TPS harness that would go to the TCU.

This is what I did: Nicely done! What's the steering column out of?

Can you elaborate on this? Any write-ups on adjusting the tach? I just did this to my 4-cylinder, but a cluster from a 4-cyl was impossible to find, so i settled for a 6-cyl, but obviously the tach is off. thx.. They aren't all adjustable. At this point I'm not certain which is which, but I believe it's the early ones (84 thru 86 or maybe partway thru 87) that are not adjustable. The "other" ones have a potentiometer on the back of the panel that adjusts the tach for 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder. I talked a friend in Greece through doing it. He had another tach he could use as a reference. His XJ was a 4-banger and he found a tach cluster out of an 88 or 89 XJ. He figured a way to make the cable connection work, then we tackled calibration. I have no idea if they're all like his, but he said ultimately it seemed that all the way to one limit was the 6-cylinder setting, and all the way to the opposite extreme was the 4-cylinder setting.

Are you saying to cover the entire cable w/ grease before you put it in? or just the end where it connects to the cluster? Do NOT grease the end where it inserts into the cluster. Lay the cable out straight, then pull the inner core out of the outer sheath. Apply grease while you slide the core back into the sheath.

I'll have to poke into the other boxes. The two I have open at the moment only have PCI slots. The 486s had some ISA, of course, but they were too old to be worth the effort it would have required to check them out. Brent, what type is that WD hard drive? What's the older type, EIDE? If it's that, I'm interested. The newer type (SATA?) won't work. These machines are too old.

Try white lithium grease on the speedo cable. Also, check the cable routing to make all bends as smooth and wide as possible. Tighter bends are more prone to the cable "whipping."

I think a couple of modems is all I'm lacking. I have video cards, I have network cards, and I have a few assorted DIMMs. Fortunately, all these boxes (except the 486s) seem to be of similar vintage and they all use the same DIMM configuration, so scavanging and cannibalizing are proceeding apace.

Guys, I need some help. The church my wife and I attend is in a nearby city and has several outreach programs to help the poor, including a daily soup kitchen. One of the assistant pastors recently mentioned they they would like to be able to make some computers available to kids in families that can't afford to buy them. At about the same time, I heard that the town where I work part-time was going to be clearing out the attic of Town Hall, and dumping several old computers. I mentioned the church to the system adminstrator, she mentioned it to the Board of Selectman, and I received an e-mail telling me that I could have the stufff if it was gone within a week. Two and half Cherokee loads later, here I am. I have more monitors than I can possibly deal with. Tons of keyboards, and lots and lots of mice. I've already scrapped two OLD computers that were 486 processors and wouldn't have a prayer of keeping up with even Windows 98, let alone 2000 or XP. I'm playing musical DIMMs to try to get a few boxes that run and that have enough memory to make it even worthwhile turning them on. It appears I'll possibly end up with maybe four, possibly five boxes to turn over to the church when I'm all done. I took the first up last week, and I'll deliver the second Monday or Tuesday. The problem is that I'm way short on modems. The town's computers were all on a network. Most of the boxes had network cards, but I can't be sure these low-income families will have access to DSL. Probably most will have cable TV, but I don't know if that connects through a standard network adapter. What I'd like to be able to do is have every box set up with both a network card and a plain-vanilla old dial-up modem. So ... does anyone have their old PCI modem card sitting in a desk drawer or on a closet shelf somewhere? If so, how would you like to send it along for on of Saint John's Church computer outreach boxes? Thanks in advance, guys. Please drop me a PM if you have anything.

Drat! It appears that Beijing Jeep discontinued the XJ as of 2005. I am not a happy camperrrrrrrr.!!!

I wish we could find a way to import and sell Beijing Jeep Super Cherokees, and REALLY thumb our noses at Chrysler. The Super Cherokee is what they SHOULD be selling, rather than the Libertine and the Patriot.

If it's a long wheelbase -- it is not an Eliminator. All Eliminators were SWB. Vinyl bench seat sounds like base model. What does it have for steering wheel and instrument cluster? If it has an all-black, 2-spoke "station wagon" steering wheel and idiot lights -- it's a base model. If it has gauges (with or without tachometer) and a 3-spoke steering wheel it's at least one trim level above base. I don't know what that would have been in '91 -- in '88 it would have been a Pioneer, but in '91 it may have been Sport. Look behind the seat. Is there a carpeted panel on the back wall of the cab, up to the rear window, or is it exposed metal? That's another indication of a base model or an upper trim level.

Someone mentioned "overflow" bottle. On an '88 4.0L that is NOT an overflow bottle. It is a pressurized surge bottle. It should be filled halfway when colt. Whatever you do, DO NOT remove that cap when the system is hot. Repeat -- it is NOT an overflow bottle, that cap is your pressure cap and if you open it when the system is hot and pressurized you WILL get scalded. The best way to burp the system takes a few minutes. With the engine cooled down, remove the cap from the bottle and fill it to half full. Leave the cap off, or just start it on but leave it loose. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. It speeds things up to partially block the radiator with a sheet of cardboard. As soon as it gets hot enough that you get boiling in the bottle, shut off the engine. Stand by with a bottle of coolant mix in your hand. As the system cools down, it will suddenly start to suck the coolant down out of the bottle. Pour more in as it sucks down, but don't fill it more than half full. When it stops sucking down, fill to the halfway mark, start the engine, and repeat. It may take three or four cycles to get most of the air out. After that you're good to drive it, just check the coolant level every morning and fill as necessary for a day or three until it's fully stabilized.

My bad. I read the initial post quickly and I thought you were running wheel spacers, not spring spacers. Gotta be tire balance if the other tires didn't do it. How much weight is on each front wheel, and how much is to the outside and how much to the inside? I've said before and I'll say again -- just because you paid a shop to balance your tires does NOT mean that your tires are balanced. An awful lot of the so-called "technicians" running those machines don't really know anything, and they rely on the machine to do all the thinking. "Close enough" when you're dealing with a solid axle Jeep is usually NOT close enough.

Even without a spare tire hanging back there, the frame makes a big 'X' behind/above the axle. I don't think an XJ gas tank would fit up into the space, so I think it would have to mount entirely below the frame. VERY susceptible to damage. Even if the top would fit inside the 'X' the XJ tank is deep and would hang down a lot lower than a spare tire. It's a possible solution for street use but not a good idea for off-road.

Why are you running spacers on the front? You shouldn't need them with those smaller tires. Try driving without them. Elimnate another variable. And +1 on having the tires balanced.

Are they an easy fit? Looked on the internet for a rebuilt one and found one for a 1968 for 265 plus 100 core charge w/12 month warranty. Rather have a rebuilt than used. I did put in a rebuilt gear from Les Schwab about 4 years ago.[/url] Unless the spline count or output shaft diameter is different from Jeep, it should be a bolt-in. The Jeep box is a Saginaw, and AMC used Saginaw boxes back into the 1950s.

Have never checked milage. Gonna have to. I do have the Aisin 4 speed, and I do slightly move and turn. They only thing I miss about PS, like my 94 Cherokee has, is the really short turning radius it has. The ratio for the XJ/MJ manual boxes is abysmally slow. It's 24:1. See if you can find an old AMC Javelin 6-cylinder in the junkyards. The manual steering ratio for those was 20:1. It's highly unlikely you'll find one, but the factory used to offer an optional 16:1 quick ratio manual box in the Javelin and AMX, too. My brother and I may be the only two people who ever actually ordered cars with that option. It was the dynamite setup for autocross and road racing.

I need the sending unit. Could you PM me the name and contact info for that supplier in NJ? TIA

Where? An XJ gas tank isn't a small item. There's no room on the left side, the drive shaft runs down the middle and the exhaust system takes up the right side.

+1 Not conclusive, but I have never seen one or heard of one.

Here's a link to a web page that may help you figure out what axle your "new" front axle is. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... Ratios.htm

Not saying I believe everything on the old web, but this one on JP's site claims to be an 87. It could be. I was wrong once before ... I think. Mine was an '84 -- hardly conclusive evidence of the last year for that style of grille.

Well, to pick nits a bit, the CPS, by whatever name, is only one part and fulfills only one functions. The 'Fuel Pump/Gauge Sender Unit' is two parts -- a fuel pump, and a gauge sending unit, that fulfill two totally different functions. And, since the two parts are (or "were") sold separately, it's extremely confusing to refer to a fuel pump as a sending unit. I can buy an MJ fuel pump down the road at Auto Zone. It comes with no gauge sending unit, and they can't supply a sending unit -- with or without a fuel pump attached.