Eagle

Ah .. je comprends. I agree, Although usually they'll run for 15 to 30 seconds after you let go of the key, as long as there's still some pressure in the fuel rail. It's easy to test -- just jumper across the two wires on the ballast resistor to bypass it. If it'll stay running ... you've found the problem.

Ah .. je comprends. I agree, Although usually they'll run for 15 to 30 seconds after you let go of the key, as long as there's still some pressure in the fuel rail. It's easy to test -- just jumper across the two wires on the ballast resistor to bypass it. If it'll stay running ... you've found the problem.

What fun is that? Isn't that contrary to the Jeepers' Code of Conduct? :banana:

What fun is that? Isn't that contrary to the Jeepers' Code of Conduct? :banana:

By all means, save it if you can. Or buy the whole thing and let the rabble on this board have a bidding war over it ... (See my signature)

By all means, save it if you can. Or buy the whole thing and let the rabble on this board have a bidding war over it ... (See my signature)

CPS CPS CPS CPS

CPS CPS CPS CPS

what is SAE? stand for? Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.

what is SAE? stand for? Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

You should still see an attorney and a doctor ... not necessarily in that order. When I was fourteen, my mother's car (with me in the rear seat) was hit more or less head on by a delivery truck. This was in July. I had nothing broken, just a lot of soreness. No real suspicion of a "problem" until back at school in the Fall, when we started basketball practice. On my first layup during warm-up drills, as I stretched up with the right arm while pushing off from the left leg ... I collapsed on the floor in spasms. It took many months of intensive therapy to get it sort of okay, and I missed the entire basketball season. And I still have back problems if I'm not careful. The only bright side was that I escaped surgery, but the extensive therapy wasn't cheap. The truck company's insurance paid for it. The irony is, they could have had the case completely paid off and closed out before my injury even became known, but they were being jerks and kept the case open to argue about how much the shop charged for rebuilding the nose on Mom's new car. If they had just manned up and paid, they'd have gotten away a lot cheaper.

You should still see an attorney and a doctor ... not necessarily in that order. When I was fourteen, my mother's car (with me in the rear seat) was hit more or less head on by a delivery truck. This was in July. I had nothing broken, just a lot of soreness. No real suspicion of a "problem" until back at school in the Fall, when we started basketball practice. On my first layup during warm-up drills, as I stretched up with the right arm while pushing off from the left leg ... I collapsed on the floor in spasms. It took many months of intensive therapy to get it sort of okay, and I missed the entire basketball season. And I still have back problems if I'm not careful. The only bright side was that I escaped surgery, but the extensive therapy wasn't cheap. The truck company's insurance paid for it. The irony is, they could have had the case completely paid off and closed out before my injury even became known, but they were being jerks and kept the case open to argue about how much the shop charged for rebuilding the nose on Mom's new car. If they had just manned up and paid, they'd have gotten away a lot cheaper.

I must have been thinking of a different carb, then. What 4-bbl is (was) it that had all four holes basically the same size? Maybe the Holley double-pumper?

I must have been thinking of a different carb, then. What 4-bbl is (was) it that had all four holes basically the same size? Maybe the Holley double-pumper?

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

It's quite possible to do what you want, but I wouldn't waste the effort on a 2-bbl. They're slow and they're gas hogs. You'll get better fuel economy and, ultimately, better performance with a small-ish 4-bbl. Don't get a Quadrajet or anything that has primaries as big as the secondaries. You want something like a carter AFB (or the new Edelbrock clones thereof) with small primaries for cruise economy and larger secondaries for when you hammer the peddle.

It's quite possible to do what you want, but I wouldn't waste the effort on a 2-bbl. They're slow and they're gas hogs. You'll get better fuel economy and, ultimately, better performance with a small-ish 4-bbl. Don't get a Quadrajet or anything that has primaries as big as the secondaries. You want something like a carter AFB (or the new Edelbrock clones thereof) with small primaries for cruise economy and larger secondaries for when you hammer the peddle.

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC. No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC. No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs. And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs. And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

Sounds like an interesting project. However, I don't know how to accompish it. A few years ago I was looking for a pop-top, slide in camper shell for an MJ. At the time I only had a SWB and the pop-tops I found were for a LWB, so I never pursued it. I think the power winch for lifting is perhaps overkill. I don't think the commercial pop-tops use power. Maybe a manual crank. But ... I've never been in one, so I don't honestly know. This is what I had in mind: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/ranger.html I used Google to find that ^^^. First hit was a link to plans, which might be helpful to you: http://www.vintageprojects.com/misc/pop ... shell.html