Eagle

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

Somewhere back in time I posted the size bolt needed to plug that outlet. I used a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt. (Make note of the "fine," because most of the bolts you see in Lowe's and Home Depot are UNC coarse thread.) I couldn't find any that were shorter than 1", which is a lot more than needed. You could use it like that, but I cut mine off and ground the tip down, put an O-ring on it, and put a small dab of black RTV on the end of the shank and let it set up. This way I have the RTV sealing the actual hole in the metering block, and if anything gets past that I still have the O-ring at the bolt shoulder as back-up.

You should still see an attorney and a doctor ... not necessarily in that order. When I was fourteen, my mother's car (with me in the rear seat) was hit more or less head on by a delivery truck. This was in July. I had nothing broken, just a lot of soreness. No real suspicion of a "problem" until back at school in the Fall, when we started basketball practice. On my first layup during warm-up drills, as I stretched up with the right arm while pushing off from the left leg ... I collapsed on the floor in spasms. It took many months of intensive therapy to get it sort of okay, and I missed the entire basketball season. And I still have back problems if I'm not careful. The only bright side was that I escaped surgery, but the extensive therapy wasn't cheap. The truck company's insurance paid for it. The irony is, they could have had the case completely paid off and closed out before my injury even became known, but they were being jerks and kept the case open to argue about how much the shop charged for rebuilding the nose on Mom's new car. If they had just manned up and paid, they'd have gotten away a lot cheaper.

You should still see an attorney and a doctor ... not necessarily in that order. When I was fourteen, my mother's car (with me in the rear seat) was hit more or less head on by a delivery truck. This was in July. I had nothing broken, just a lot of soreness. No real suspicion of a "problem" until back at school in the Fall, when we started basketball practice. On my first layup during warm-up drills, as I stretched up with the right arm while pushing off from the left leg ... I collapsed on the floor in spasms. It took many months of intensive therapy to get it sort of okay, and I missed the entire basketball season. And I still have back problems if I'm not careful. The only bright side was that I escaped surgery, but the extensive therapy wasn't cheap. The truck company's insurance paid for it. The irony is, they could have had the case completely paid off and closed out before my injury even became known, but they were being jerks and kept the case open to argue about how much the shop charged for rebuilding the nose on Mom's new car. If they had just manned up and paid, they'd have gotten away a lot cheaper.

I must have been thinking of a different carb, then. What 4-bbl is (was) it that had all four holes basically the same size? Maybe the Holley double-pumper?

I must have been thinking of a different carb, then. What 4-bbl is (was) it that had all four holes basically the same size? Maybe the Holley double-pumper?

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

I don't mean to sound rude, but Pete M has posted a PHOTO all marked up in Photoshop that shows exactly which outlet gets used. If I had it bookmarked I'd happily post a link to it, but I don't. So rather than me searching for it, I'll ask you to please do your own research. The information IS here -- about three or four times -- if you're willing to spend a few moments to look for it.

It's quite possible to do what you want, but I wouldn't waste the effort on a 2-bbl. They're slow and they're gas hogs. You'll get better fuel economy and, ultimately, better performance with a small-ish 4-bbl. Don't get a Quadrajet or anything that has primaries as big as the secondaries. You want something like a carter AFB (or the new Edelbrock clones thereof) with small primaries for cruise economy and larger secondaries for when you hammer the peddle.

It's quite possible to do what you want, but I wouldn't waste the effort on a 2-bbl. They're slow and they're gas hogs. You'll get better fuel economy and, ultimately, better performance with a small-ish 4-bbl. Don't get a Quadrajet or anything that has primaries as big as the secondaries. You want something like a carter AFB (or the new Edelbrock clones thereof) with small primaries for cruise economy and larger secondaries for when you hammer the peddle.

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC. No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC. No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs. And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs. And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

Sounds like an interesting project. However, I don't know how to accompish it. A few years ago I was looking for a pop-top, slide in camper shell for an MJ. At the time I only had a SWB and the pop-tops I found were for a LWB, so I never pursued it. I think the power winch for lifting is perhaps overkill. I don't think the commercial pop-tops use power. Maybe a manual crank. But ... I've never been in one, so I don't honestly know. This is what I had in mind: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/ranger.html I used Google to find that ^^^. First hit was a link to plans, which might be helpful to you: http://www.vintageprojects.com/misc/pop ... shell.html

Sounds like an interesting project. However, I don't know how to accompish it. A few years ago I was looking for a pop-top, slide in camper shell for an MJ. At the time I only had a SWB and the pop-tops I found were for a LWB, so I never pursued it. I think the power winch for lifting is perhaps overkill. I don't think the commercial pop-tops use power. Maybe a manual crank. But ... I've never been in one, so I don't honestly know. This is what I had in mind: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/ranger.html I used Google to find that ^^^. First hit was a link to plans, which might be helpful to you: http://www.vintageprojects.com/misc/pop ... shell.html

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

Wrong forum. Sorry.

Eliminating the rear proportioning valve, if done properly (which means the way I think it should be done :smart: ) involves replacing the two steel lines from the front of the truck to the rear axle with one, NEW steel line. I've seen too many ruptured lines on older Cherokees and Comanches to trust the condition of 20-year old steel tubing. And to replace the line to the rear, you will be doing some custom bending and flaring of steel brake tubing. If you are not comfortable doing that, and don't have the tools to do a proper double flare ... then as CJLongshot suggests, you are better off paying to have it done. The only thing worse than bad brakes is NO brakes. They are not something to fool around with.

AX-5 or T-5 maybe, but the BA 10/5 was not used with the 2.5L engine. Agreed. I've heard too many stories about that little platinum tip breaking off and holing the top of a piston to ever consider using them in any engine I own. I run standard (not platinum) NGKs and I think they are better than any other plug for the Jeep engines.

What many of us do is remove the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. The how-to has been written up multiple times on this forum, and IIRC there was a thread discussing it within the past week or two. The flaw with the self-adjusters is that they only self-adjust when the brakes are applied firmly in reverse. Because the rear proportioning valve basically doesn't let any pressure go to the rear wheels if the truck isn't heavily loaded, the adjusters simply never get engaged. Once the rear proportioning valve has been removed, if you keep the self-adjusters clean they should work as intended.

I agree on dumping the FoMoCo plugs, but my 4.0Ls seem to like NGKs best.

Not quite. He has an '89, which probably means it has an AX-15 tranny, and the AX-15 tranny doesn't like GL-5 rated gear oil. The sulfer in the formulation eats the synchronizers. THe original factory recommendation was an 8-90 gear oil rated GL-3. However, since you could spend a couple of generations trying to find that, according to Pete the factory has changes their recommendation to motor oil. I think I'd be tempted to try the dedicated synchromesh gear oil from Pennzoil, but I don't have an AX-15 to worry about at the moment.

Before you spend any more time trying to trouble-shoot the coil and ignition module -- do you have any idea how old your CPS is? In probably 98.73 percent of the cases, that is the cause of no starts and unpredictable "die in the middle of the road" episodes.