Eagle

Quadratec has direct replacements. That's the way to go on a tight budget. If you have the extra money, IMHO it's better to buy one of the all-metal surge tanks available, either the Moroso model or the newer, flat one that fits right on the shelf in place of the factory plastic bottle. If you get the Quadratec plastic one, be sure to get a new cap with it. They used to sell the cap with the bottle as an assembly, but I believe they have now split out the cap as a separate part number.

Our man Brent set up a discount on Ford 19-pound injectors just for Comanche Club members, before he was laid off by the Jeep dealership. As far as I know the discount deal is still valid. Try a search on "injectors" and "discount" and see if the specific turn up.

Why do you want to put bigger injectors in it? Fuel injectors are selected to provide the correct amount of fuel to the engine within an optimum duty cycle range. If you put in bigger injectors, all that will do is result in the ECU chopping off the injector pulse so the injection takes place over a shorter period of time. You won't get any more fuel into the engine, and you may get worse performance. Since most off-road use is low speed and low RPM, there's no way your stumbling can be caused by injectors that are too small. I respectfully suggest that you need to reevaluate.

You buy a new speedometer drive gear with a different number of teeth on it.

Cody, it's B-R-A-K-E-S, not B-R-E-A-K-S. The answer is "Yes." There is no reason to do any more work than necessary. Rip out BOTH old lines going from the front to the rear. One of them comes out of the "nose" of the distribution block (it is not a proportioning valve in the MJ), the other comes out of the forward outlet on the bottom. Plug the old outlet on the forward/bottom of the distribution block. All you need to plug it is a 1/2x20 (fine thread) bolt. To make it neat, saw off the threaded shank to allow the head to seat against the body of the distribution block. I used a 1/2" O-ring under the head to seal it. Run ONE new line from the "nose" outlet of the distribution block to the rear of the truck and connect it directly to the upper end of the rear axle flex hose. Bleed the brakes. Drive. You can leave the abandoned body of the rear height sensing valve on the chassis, or take it off and throw it away. If yours hasn't failed yet, you might want to keep it in case somebody needs one some day for a fully accurate restoration project.

Get it aligned. Pay particular attention to the caster angle. Within spec, more is better.

True. Like mine, for example. Untrue. You may do so if you wish, but I didn't and I'm not sorry. The "replacement" is an XJ proportioning valve. If you study how it works, you'll see that it provides NO advantage in an MJ. The MJ height-sensing valve reduces rear brake force when the truck is unloaded in order to alleviate premature rear brake lockup -- which causes spin-outs in panic stop situations. The XJ proportioning valve reduces rear braking force when the brakes are used lightly, until the pressure rises high enough to move the spring-loaded plunger, after which you get full braking to the rear. So in a full panic stop, the XJ proportioning valve will NOT reduce rear braking force, and will NOT prevent premature lock-up under the exact conditions when you most need it to be prevented. And many others, including myself, do not. Some others prefer to use a mechanically-adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve, and IMHO that is far better than the XJ gizmo that reduces the rear braking when it shouldn't, and doesn't reduce it when it should.

They are supposed to be mailing back my check. When I get it, I have downloaded the DMV complaint form and I will be filing a formal complaint. According to the DMV inspector I spoke with at the main complaint office, any resolution will be determined by the inspector assigned to the case. Turns out they just don't have a clue how to tell the truth ... to anyone. I stopped by the dealership yesterday to pick up clutch parts for the '87 MJ. The guy who had passed my name on to the used car place wasn't there, but the other guys knew about the referral and that the XJ had been sold. Now, remember, I agreed to buy it at the full price on their PRINTED stock list, and they used my contract to induce somebody else to pay more. They told one of the guys from my Jeep dealer's parts room that they "took a $3,000 hit on the sales price." I don't want any further dealings with them. I want only to, if possible, have their license revoked and put them out of business. I may decide to go an entirely different route -- fix up one of the '88 MJs as my daily driver, convert the '88 XJ to automatic with Selec-Trac for the ladies, and call it good. We'll see. I'm still regrouping from the shock of having been done dirt to that extent by a place my Jeep dealer's parts guys thought was a good shop.

If your rear turn signals and brake lights work, your problem is NOT a bad ground. Also, a bad ground would not blow a fuse. You are not dealing with a bad ground, which occurs AFTER the bulbs in the circuit. You are dealing with a short circuit somewhere BEFORE the bulbs. The question about transmission was (I assume) asked because often the clutch master cylinder seeps clutch (brake) fluid past the seal. The fluid runs through the firewall on the rod and drips into the fuse box. It's brake fluid -- it is extremely destructive to electrical components. You may have a fried fuse panel. Or you may have a broken or abraded wire somewhere between the fuse panel and the taillights.

FRAM!?!?!? OHMIGAWD! There's your problem, right there. Go buy a Mobil-1 or Purolator filter ASAP. FYI, the factory spec (with a warm engine) is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. I think the relief valve is set for 75 psi, so unless you are exceeding 75 psi you do not have a relief valve problem.

Okay, then eliminate variables. First, aside from the range of movement shifting higher on the scale, everything acts properly. Cold oil is thicker so the pressure is higher right after a cold start, then drops off as the engine warms up. Oil pressure is lower at low RPM and goes up as the RPMs increase. (Some people claim it "should" go up 10 psi for every 1000 RPM - in well over a million miles of driving many vehicles, I have NEVER seen any vehicle do this.) So ... what might be different to have caused the change? Have you recently done an oil change (or had the oil changed)? Is the oil the same brand you always use? Is the oil the same weight/viscosity you always use? Did you go from conventional oil to synthetic, or the opposite? Is the filter the same brand and model, or did you use a different filter than what you normally use? Any of the above could, potentially, affect oil pressure readings.

The operable vents were an expensive option, except in the top trim levels (Laredo and Limited). \ They also leaked. ALL of them ... ALWAYS. I paid extra to get them in my '88 XJ. They leaked from Day One. The factory offered to fix them ... by replacing them with the fixed windows I paid $$$ to not have. I sealed them with silicone.

While I agree that police should live by the same rules as the rest of us, I have seen way to many accidents and I have had far too many narrow escapes due to people yakking on their cell phones when driving to have any sympathy for people who think such laws are "unfair." I don't think even hands free cell phone use should be allowed when driving. It's a simple fact of life that chatting on a cell phone is too much like ... chatting on a cell phone. The brain shuts down the part that's supposed to remember that you're driving a 4,000 pound guided missile, and the next thing you know you just T-boned a soccer mom 'cause you ran a red light. Sorry, Mate. Cell phones in vehicles (for the driver) are toxic.

Where did you find a limited slip for a Cherokee with a Dana 30? Or were you running a conversion with some other axle?

Thanks for the lead, Doggy. Price is good ... too good. Looks to be a Sport based on the trim and painted upper flares, but there are NO "Sport" decals. I'd guess it's a rebuilt wreck and I'm not willing to take a chance on something like that when it's too far away for me to inspect closely, up front and personal.

Have your tires balanced, and check your front wheel alignment. If you lifted it and didn't have it realigned, your caster angle and toe-in are out of spec.

With all due respect, it appears that you do NOT understand. "Differential" means a device to allow the wheels on one axle to operate at different speeds if conditions for each wheel are "different." You can take a rear-wheel drive (or front wheel drive) car, pop the clutch, and burn out with both drive wheels even if the differential isn't locked. As long as the vehicle is going straight rather than turning and both wheels have equal traction, they will behave the same.

Just started doing what? The behavior you are describing sounds normal to me. If it's normal now and you're worried about it, what did it do before and why WEREN'T you concerned about it?

When you do this, pull the relay for the fuel pump. You'll be spinning it over with no spark plugs, so it won't fire. So you DON'T want to be injecting a lot of gasoline into the cylinders to wash out the lubrication you are trying so hard to re-introduce to the engine.

In fifth gear. The real question is: Would you want to, and if so, why?

Well done! Very smooth. You made it look easy.

No. As I posted (with sizes), square structural tubing is sold by OUTSIDE dimension and then wall thickness. The outside dimensions are 2", 2-1/4", and 2-1/2". They used 2-1/2" nominal tubing with either a 3/16" or 1/8" wall, resulting in an inside dimension that won't provide a tight fit with either 2" or 2-1/4" tubing. I wondered the same thing. There are a LOT more XJs out there than there are MJs, and I'd bet that a lot of XJ owners who buy custom bumpers would fully expect that a bumper with a receiver tube in it will be suitable for towing. JCR discontinued the MJ bumper but it appears they are still offering the XJ bumper. If they "can't" get the correct 1/4" wall tubing for MJ bumpers, there is no reason to think that could miraculously get it for XJ bumpers. However, my guess would be that after this little dustup they may start investigating alternate sources. If their supplier convinced them that standard 2-1/2" x 1/4" structural tubing can't be bought because some company has a patent on it ... I have a bridge for sale that they might be interested in buying.

But that's a different animal. That's a disputed amount. In my case, there was no dispute. The sales contract states that I gave them $1,000 as a deposit, and I wrote a check for $1,000 as a deposit. They accepted the check as a deposit. The fact that they chose not to deposit it but to use it as leverage to induce some other potential buyer to pay MORE than the asking price is irrelevant. We had a contract ... in writing, signed by their agent.

Huh? I got your PM, but I didn't see any reference to a title. It said it was sold to a Jeep dealer in [a small town in] Pennsylvania ... which is exactly what they told me. The current seller is not a Jeep dealer, so they would not be able to offer an official warranty in any event. I wasn't concerned about that -- I don't trust dealer service anyway. But ... I called the place this morning and they confirmed that it is gone. Their story is that the signed sales agreement isn't a contract because the final transfer hadn't taken place -- so when somebody else walked in and offered more money, they sold it to him. The State DMV says I seem to have a valid complaint so I will file the formal paperwork. I doubt I'll get the vehicle, but if I can put the dealer out of business that'll be fair.

They did not cash the check, but they accepted the check and held it for ten days before reneging on the deal. They do not have to deposit the check for the deal to be binding. If they chose not to deposit the check, it's their problem.