Eagle

Okay, then eliminate variables. First, aside from the range of movement shifting higher on the scale, everything acts properly. Cold oil is thicker so the pressure is higher right after a cold start, then drops off as the engine warms up. Oil pressure is lower at low RPM and goes up as the RPMs increase. (Some people claim it "should" go up 10 psi for every 1000 RPM - in well over a million miles of driving many vehicles, I have NEVER seen any vehicle do this.) So ... what might be different to have caused the change? Have you recently done an oil change (or had the oil changed)? Is the oil the same brand you always use? Is the oil the same weight/viscosity you always use? Did you go from conventional oil to synthetic, or the opposite? Is the filter the same brand and model, or did you use a different filter than what you normally use? Any of the above could, potentially, affect oil pressure readings.

The operable vents were an expensive option, except in the top trim levels (Laredo and Limited). \ They also leaked. ALL of them ... ALWAYS. I paid extra to get them in my '88 XJ. They leaked from Day One. The factory offered to fix them ... by replacing them with the fixed windows I paid $$$ to not have. I sealed them with silicone.

While I agree that police should live by the same rules as the rest of us, I have seen way to many accidents and I have had far too many narrow escapes due to people yakking on their cell phones when driving to have any sympathy for people who think such laws are "unfair." I don't think even hands free cell phone use should be allowed when driving. It's a simple fact of life that chatting on a cell phone is too much like ... chatting on a cell phone. The brain shuts down the part that's supposed to remember that you're driving a 4,000 pound guided missile, and the next thing you know you just T-boned a soccer mom 'cause you ran a red light. Sorry, Mate. Cell phones in vehicles (for the driver) are toxic.

Where did you find a limited slip for a Cherokee with a Dana 30? Or were you running a conversion with some other axle?

Thanks for the lead, Doggy. Price is good ... too good. Looks to be a Sport based on the trim and painted upper flares, but there are NO "Sport" decals. I'd guess it's a rebuilt wreck and I'm not willing to take a chance on something like that when it's too far away for me to inspect closely, up front and personal.

Have your tires balanced, and check your front wheel alignment. If you lifted it and didn't have it realigned, your caster angle and toe-in are out of spec.

With all due respect, it appears that you do NOT understand. "Differential" means a device to allow the wheels on one axle to operate at different speeds if conditions for each wheel are "different." You can take a rear-wheel drive (or front wheel drive) car, pop the clutch, and burn out with both drive wheels even if the differential isn't locked. As long as the vehicle is going straight rather than turning and both wheels have equal traction, they will behave the same.

Just started doing what? The behavior you are describing sounds normal to me. If it's normal now and you're worried about it, what did it do before and why WEREN'T you concerned about it?

When you do this, pull the relay for the fuel pump. You'll be spinning it over with no spark plugs, so it won't fire. So you DON'T want to be injecting a lot of gasoline into the cylinders to wash out the lubrication you are trying so hard to re-introduce to the engine.

In fifth gear. The real question is: Would you want to, and if so, why?

Well done! Very smooth. You made it look easy.

No. As I posted (with sizes), square structural tubing is sold by OUTSIDE dimension and then wall thickness. The outside dimensions are 2", 2-1/4", and 2-1/2". They used 2-1/2" nominal tubing with either a 3/16" or 1/8" wall, resulting in an inside dimension that won't provide a tight fit with either 2" or 2-1/4" tubing. I wondered the same thing. There are a LOT more XJs out there than there are MJs, and I'd bet that a lot of XJ owners who buy custom bumpers would fully expect that a bumper with a receiver tube in it will be suitable for towing. JCR discontinued the MJ bumper but it appears they are still offering the XJ bumper. If they "can't" get the correct 1/4" wall tubing for MJ bumpers, there is no reason to think that could miraculously get it for XJ bumpers. However, my guess would be that after this little dustup they may start investigating alternate sources. If their supplier convinced them that standard 2-1/2" x 1/4" structural tubing can't be bought because some company has a patent on it ... I have a bridge for sale that they might be interested in buying.

But that's a different animal. That's a disputed amount. In my case, there was no dispute. The sales contract states that I gave them $1,000 as a deposit, and I wrote a check for $1,000 as a deposit. They accepted the check as a deposit. The fact that they chose not to deposit it but to use it as leverage to induce some other potential buyer to pay MORE than the asking price is irrelevant. We had a contract ... in writing, signed by their agent.

Huh? I got your PM, but I didn't see any reference to a title. It said it was sold to a Jeep dealer in [a small town in] Pennsylvania ... which is exactly what they told me. The current seller is not a Jeep dealer, so they would not be able to offer an official warranty in any event. I wasn't concerned about that -- I don't trust dealer service anyway. But ... I called the place this morning and they confirmed that it is gone. Their story is that the signed sales agreement isn't a contract because the final transfer hadn't taken place -- so when somebody else walked in and offered more money, they sold it to him. The State DMV says I seem to have a valid complaint so I will file the formal paperwork. I doubt I'll get the vehicle, but if I can put the dealer out of business that'll be fair.

They did not cash the check, but they accepted the check and held it for ten days before reneging on the deal. They do not have to deposit the check for the deal to be binding. If they chose not to deposit the check, it's their problem.

And where do you think anyone is going to come up with another NEW 2001 Cherokee Classic? Seriously, guys, I know your intentions are good, but I was cheated out of a NEW vehicle, not a low-mileage used vehicle. There IS a difference.

Is it or isn't it 40 psi? If you don't know the pump might be the problem, why ask how to replace it? In any event, you don't drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, uou just drop the drive shaft. (Good excuse to replace the old u-joints) The popping could also be caused by a bad oxygen sensor. If it isn't responding to changes in load and mixture quick enough, it can result in more fuel being injected than the engine needs. The unburned fuel goes right through, and then ignites when it hits the catalytic converter. This results in a muffled series of backfires that might be described as "popping."

Purolator = Good Fram = Bad

If anyone has a Carfax account, the VIN is on the contract (which is in my wife's XJ outside). I can provide the VIN tomorrow if someone can run it for me.

They don't exist. Around here, that kind of money might buy a thoroughly beat Sport with over 150,000 miles on it, and no Selec-Trac. And probably some wise guy's home-installed hack job sound system. Find me a really pristine Classic or Limited with 50,000 miles, Selec-Trac, in all original configuration for $6,000 and I'll be interested.

Yeah. One who died, and whose widow finally got around to liquidating the old stock. That was the story, and the window stickers showed that it had been delivered to a dealer in a small town in PA, so I am willing to accept the story. I used to cruise around the back country of Maryland and PA looking for old Hudson dealerships to buy their stocks of new-old-stock parts, so perhaps that explains why the story sounds entirely plausible to me. The odometer showed 10 miles, and the vehicle OBVIOUSLY had not been driven more than from the truck into the garage.

Dan's Automotive in Torrington.

You don't understand how the brakes work. That rear height sensing valve reduces the amount of braking to the rear wheels when the back is not loaded. As load drops the bed down, the valve opens up and allows more braking force to the rear wheels. The most it can possibly allow is 100% of what would be available if the valve weren't there. And that's exactly what you get when you eliminate the height sensing valve. You get the maximum possible braking to the rear wheels at all times. The safety redundancy in the brakes is the separate front and rear circuits. If your front brakes fail, you (theoretically) still have the rears. If the rear brakes fail, you theoretically still have the fronts. But if the fronts failed when the truck wasn't loaded, with the rear heightsensing valve reducing most of the braking to the rear you would have essentially no brakes -- which is why they built in the bypass. If you eliminate the height sensing valve, you have the same condition as a bypass condition if your front brakes fail. The plug you need is a 1/2" SAE fine thread bolt, the shortest one you can find. I cut mine down enough that with a gob of RTV on the end and a 1/2" O-ring under the head, the O-ring and the RTV both seat at the same time so I have a double seal. The actual length of thread I had left was about 3/8" IIRC, but that's approximate.

I would second eliminating the height sensing valve. Mine exploded in a panic stop just like yours. However, you have the wrong outlet. Plug the forward outlet on the bottom on the metering block, run the hard line from the front ("nose") outlet directly to the rear flex hose.

Why would you need to use it as a recovery point when there are mounts for heavy D-ring shackles on each side of it? That doesn't make any sense at all. In fact, if it isn't intended for towing it makes no sense to even have it on (in) the bumper.