Eagle

So what transmission and what gear ratio were in the vehicle that t-case came from? And what size tires? The gear you have was (supposedly) correct for that tire size and axle ratio.

Construction adhesive is the wrong product. Use the right stuff. Windshield sealant used to be butyl, but I think I've heard that now it's urethane. In any case, get whatever product is sold for installing windshields. Be sure to check the sheet metal around the opening. From the photos, I'm guessing you need to do some metal work before you re-install the window.

It's glued in, just like a windshield.

It's not the instrument panel ground. It's the front parking light sockets. They lose their ground and the parking light circuit backfeeds through the turn signal circuit to force a ground. Cleaning up the main ground point for the front lighting (located behind the driver's side headlight) may help, but usually it's as simple as replacing the two parking light sockets. There's a Ford socket that's usually in stock on the HELP! rack at the parts chains that fits perfectly.

When you swapped the tranny and transfer case, which speedo gear did you use?

It is a GM Saginaw column. Follow any of the repair discussions you find on the Internet.

Are you certain the sprockets are fully seated on the cam and on the crank?

Actually, if he hasn't changed the bump stops, shocks for a 3" lift may NOT work fine. They should be longer, and full suspension compression could bottom out the shocks before the bump stops make contact. Goodbye shocks.

On which end? On the fuel tank end, it goes into the tank. On the dashboard end, it's part of a multi-wire harness that ends in a rectangular connecter that snaps into the back of the gauge cluster.

Roger that ...

I haven't done this swap, but I have given it a lot of thought because I think the XJ setup with separate brake and turn lamps (and 4-ways) is far superior to the MJ setup in which the 4-ways cancel the brake lights. I am considering changing mine to the XJ setup even without doing a newer-year conversion. What I have in mind is to keep the MJ brake lights as taillights/brake lights. I would put amber bulbs in the backup light sockets and wire those separately as turn signals and 4-ways. And then I would add a pair of small fog lights wired to function as backup lights. If you want to keep the stock backups as backups, the MJ has two stop/turn lamps on each side. It would be easy enough to split those, and run one lamp on each side as tail and brake lights, and the other lamp on each side as turns and 4-ways.

Nope. Shocks are good.

See post #7. It's an outside possibility, but it is a possibility. With a new radiator and no thermostat, the temperature should not get anywhere near 210, let alone 250. Remember, the purpose of a thermostat in an automobile engine is to keep the temperature UP, not down. Run it again until it's hot, and check the radiator to see if it feels hot.

It has to be something simple. Buy it, drag it home, and we'll help you figure it out.

I think your description of the problem is misleading. "Turning over" is when the starter motor causes the engine to rotate. "Turning over" is not "starting" or "firing." Are you saying that the engine initially will start, then die ... then WON'T start when you try again? How long do you have to wait before it will start again?

The elongation I think I saw was horizontal. Certainly, upper control arms are the other suspect. I initially discounted them as a prime suspect because I've never seen one go bad, but there have been so many things wrong with this 2001 XJ that I've never seen even on vehicles 15 years older and with three or four times as many miles, I probably should assume that they need to be replaced, since everything else in the front suspension has needed to be replaced. Talk about "Just Empty Every Pocket" ...

This happens to be for the "new" 2001 XJ, but could as easily be for any MJ so I'll put it here: Had a lot of clunking under the floorboards when driving over pavement cracks and washboard roads, so I cleverly diagnosed lower control arms. I could grab 'em by hand and move them around, so it seemed like a valid diagnosis. Changed them out with a set of new OEM style (Crown) LCAs over Thanksgiving. There's a lot less clunking, but I'm still getting some, and I can still feel things in the steering shift slightly when I hit a diagonal crack or a bridge joint. I've already replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends, and the track bar is good. Soooo ... Has anyone encountered egged-out holes in the caster adjustment clevises that go in the rear (frame) LCA pockets? I didn't pay as close attention as I probably should have, but I have a sort of fuzzy recollection that the clevis holes seemed elongated -- and they're supposed to be round. Before I take things apart again to replaces the clevises ... is this something that anyone has seen? Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

Yes, it could. There is one other, oddball possibility. If the PO replaced the water pump, he could have gotten one for a 4.2L engine with vee belts rather than a serpentine belt. Externally they look alike and they both bolt to both blocks, but the direction of rotation is reversed for the serpentine belt, so the impeller vanes go the other way.

Plugged radiator.

Fuel filter? O2 sensor?

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. I hope you all have time between the feast and the football to remember something in your lives for which to be thankful.

I'm accustomed to paying around $100 apiece for the front unit bearings. Sounds high, but they're good for 150,000+ miles, so it's not too bad. FWIW, the early style can be rebuilt -- Quadratec sells the individual bearings and seals (two of each required per hub). The total cost isn't that much less than a new unit, and you need a 12-ton or 20-ton hydraulic shop press to do the work.

Probably the cushion on the transmission support at the crossmember is compressing. This allows the exhaust pipe to make contact with the crossmember as the engine flexes relative to the chassis. You could replace the tranny support (big $$$), or you could shim it.

The bearings are inside, that's why it's called a unit bearing. If you are getting a "deal," be sure it's the right one for your year. They are not all the same, and they do not interchange.

No, you don't. There are three wires to the fuel tank. The heavy one is power to the fuel pump. the black is ground. The third is for the fuel level sender, which is obviously also inside the fuel tank.