Eagle

This one should do the job for you. No batteries to wear out. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html

Measurements? Photos? (3/4 edge view)

PB Blaster, bronze wire brush, lithium spray lube.

You don't have a caliper? They're cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Just get a dial caliper and learn to read it -- skip the digitals, they eat batteries. Measure the bearing you took out, and the one you got from the store. Does the one you took out look like there's an outer shell that's missing (as in, it got left in the axle)? Show us a 3/4 edge view of both -- oriented the same way.

And be sure they are oriented the same. In the first photo where you showed two bearings side-by-side, it looks like one was facing the camera and one was facing away. They definitely did NOT look the same.

They aren't the same. Do they look the same if you flip one of them over? Why is the new one missing three rollers? (And why is the old one missing one roller?)

FSM doesn't offer much useful information. No exploded diagram.

The C-clip Dana 35s are different from the ones I have, and seem to be the opposite. With mine (non-C-clip) the only thing to be pressed into the axle tube is the tapered race. The roller bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft itself. Apparently the C-clip axles have the outer race and bearing all together, and that's all pressed into the axle tube as an assembly. There doesn't appear to be a separate outer race. The rollers appear (I guess) to roll directly on the axle shaft. So the question is, is the outer diameter of what you removed the same as the outer diameter of the new bearing assembly? If so, it should go right in, and it may just be your technique that's the problem. If the old and new assemblies appear to be the same, then you shouldn't have to remove anything. That inner bit that you started to chip away at -- in your first set of photos, that looked shiny and slightly tapered, which is why I thought it might be a race (along with the fact that I'm accustomed to working on axles that have a race there). Check it out -- is it tapered, or are the walls straight and parallel? Don't do any more chiseling until you know for certain if that has to come out, or if it should stay. Don't go by the video of the Dana 44 -- that uses a separate bearing race, not an assembly.

BTW -- Aren't you going to clean off all that crud from the leaking seal before you put the new bearing into the axle? That backing plate is a mess. I hope you weren't going to leave it like that.

It looks like you have a Dana 35 axle. 5707 appears to be the correct part number, according to AutoZone. And based on the second photo, the old race appears to be still in the axle. That's the cone-shaped, shiny part that the bearing rollers roll against in the axle. That has to be removed before the new race (which should have come as part of the new bearing) gets pressed in. Did the old part that you removed look exactly like the new assembly? On the C-clip axles, it looks like the bearing and race get pressed into the axle as a unit (different from the older, non-C-clip Dana 35). I'm not sure why your photo looks like the race is still in there, but that's what it looks like to me.

I use Harbor Freight jack stands, but if I'm under the vehicle I also have a jack under the differential. I have the stands carrying the weight, with the jack just making contact, so if a stand fails or shifts, the jack will (hopefully) prevent my having to try to bench press a 3,000 pound vehicle.

I guess I'll be using a jack to pull the transfer case, then. They wired my chest back together after the open heart surgery, but I don't think I'm willing to risk trying to bench press close to 90 pounds under a vehicle. If I slip and drop it the result might not be pretty.

True. This is why I use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid in my clutch as well as in the brakes. It doesn't absorb water.

Bleed the clutch.

I know why you did what you did, but it is probably the cause of your problem. The thermostat is there to keep the temperature UP, not down. Factry thermostat is 195 degrees, the absolute lowest you can (not "should") run is 180. The system needs to get up to something like 165 or 170 degrees to switch into closed loop mode. A 165 degree thermostat won't do it, and I'm pretty certain that NO thermostat certainly can't do it. Even in sand, you want to be able to keep the temperature from going higher than 210 or so, but you shouldn't be trying to keep it below 195. Keep your three fans but put a 195 degree thermostat back in and see what happens. (And besure to get a t-stat with the are relief bleeder, and burp the system.)

1. Does anyone know how much an NP242 transfer case weighs? 2. Does anyone have any idea what an automotive machine shop would charge to press the wrist pins out of four old pistons (2.5L) and to press new pistons onto the connecting rods?

What are we discussing? The factory warning system in the XJ, MJ, and ZJ (don't know about the YJ, but probably the same) isn't a pressure switch at all. It's a mechanical plunger switch that's normally open, and closers when the plunger is depressed (which happens to be UP as the switch is installed). The pressure sensing component is the sliding shuttle valve in the top of the distribution block. Take a look at the cutawy photos I've posted in other threads to see how it works.

Remove converter Insert resonator or filler pipe. Done.* * Unless it's OBD2, with two oxygen sensors.

The factory cat has an outlet pipe that exits the cat, then necks down from 2-1/2" to 2-1/4", at which point it enters the inlet of the muffler. The factory used a muffler clamp on the muffler inlet.

Apparently so. What was the point?

Okay, but it's not necessary unless the mating surface is warped.

The brake warning light is required by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 135 (49 CFR 571.135). See section 5,5: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.135 Disable it at your own risk. Regardless of how well your brakes work (or don't work), it's illegal to disable the warning light.

The front brakes are independent of the rear brakes even with the factory distribution block. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure it's a violation of federal law (and likely state law, as well) to remove or disable that brake warning light. I know the system will work the way you did it -- it's just like leaving the factory unit in place -- but it's not legal. However, I realize that I'm probably in a minority by worrying about little things like laws.

You have clearance for the 31s -- but don't go there. You have a 5-speed, which means 3.08 axle ratio. To run 31s and be happy, you need 4.10 gears, and if you're on a budget you probably don't want to spend several hundred to a thousand dollars on regearing. 30x9.50s are basically the same diameter as 235/75-15s. The 30s may look more aggressive, but they also cost more and deliver worse gas mileage (because they're wider).

So you eliminated the brake failure warning light completely? How is that legal? Your state doesn't have safety inspections?