Eagle

I use Harbor Freight jack stands, but if I'm under the vehicle I also have a jack under the differential. I have the stands carrying the weight, with the jack just making contact, so if a stand fails or shifts, the jack will (hopefully) prevent my having to try to bench press a 3,000 pound vehicle.

I guess I'll be using a jack to pull the transfer case, then. They wired my chest back together after the open heart surgery, but I don't think I'm willing to risk trying to bench press close to 90 pounds under a vehicle. If I slip and drop it the result might not be pretty.

True. This is why I use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid in my clutch as well as in the brakes. It doesn't absorb water.

Bleed the clutch.

I know why you did what you did, but it is probably the cause of your problem. The thermostat is there to keep the temperature UP, not down. Factry thermostat is 195 degrees, the absolute lowest you can (not "should") run is 180. The system needs to get up to something like 165 or 170 degrees to switch into closed loop mode. A 165 degree thermostat won't do it, and I'm pretty certain that NO thermostat certainly can't do it. Even in sand, you want to be able to keep the temperature from going higher than 210 or so, but you shouldn't be trying to keep it below 195. Keep your three fans but put a 195 degree thermostat back in and see what happens. (And besure to get a t-stat with the are relief bleeder, and burp the system.)

1. Does anyone know how much an NP242 transfer case weighs? 2. Does anyone have any idea what an automotive machine shop would charge to press the wrist pins out of four old pistons (2.5L) and to press new pistons onto the connecting rods?

What are we discussing? The factory warning system in the XJ, MJ, and ZJ (don't know about the YJ, but probably the same) isn't a pressure switch at all. It's a mechanical plunger switch that's normally open, and closers when the plunger is depressed (which happens to be UP as the switch is installed). The pressure sensing component is the sliding shuttle valve in the top of the distribution block. Take a look at the cutawy photos I've posted in other threads to see how it works.

Remove converter Insert resonator or filler pipe. Done.* * Unless it's OBD2, with two oxygen sensors.

The factory cat has an outlet pipe that exits the cat, then necks down from 2-1/2" to 2-1/4", at which point it enters the inlet of the muffler. The factory used a muffler clamp on the muffler inlet.

Apparently so. What was the point?

Okay, but it's not necessary unless the mating surface is warped.

The brake warning light is required by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 135 (49 CFR 571.135). See section 5,5: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.135 Disable it at your own risk. Regardless of how well your brakes work (or don't work), it's illegal to disable the warning light.

The front brakes are independent of the rear brakes even with the factory distribution block. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure it's a violation of federal law (and likely state law, as well) to remove or disable that brake warning light. I know the system will work the way you did it -- it's just like leaving the factory unit in place -- but it's not legal. However, I realize that I'm probably in a minority by worrying about little things like laws.

You have clearance for the 31s -- but don't go there. You have a 5-speed, which means 3.08 axle ratio. To run 31s and be happy, you need 4.10 gears, and if you're on a budget you probably don't want to spend several hundred to a thousand dollars on regearing. 30x9.50s are basically the same diameter as 235/75-15s. The 30s may look more aggressive, but they also cost more and deliver worse gas mileage (because they're wider).

So you eliminated the brake failure warning light completely? How is that legal? Your state doesn't have safety inspections?

I think you are still misunderstanding. The clutch system, like the brake system, is a hydraulic system. It works by pushing fluid from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder under pressure. Once the moving column of fluid gets to the slave cylinder, it then pushes the pistol inside the slave, and that's what pushes on the clutch to disengage it. Fluid does not compress under pressure -- so stepping on the peddle pushes a column of fluid through the clutch line. Air compresses, so if you have ANY air bubbles trapped in the line -- anywhere -- stepping on the clutch peddle only compresses the air bubble(s), it doesn't move the pistol in the slave cylinder. So ... we need to bleed the system to get the air out. If you just open the bleeder screw without moving the peddle, fluid will drip out. This is called gravity bleeding. Some people have decent results gravity bleeding brakes -- I've never had good luck with it. The hydraulic clutch seems to be more difficult to get bled well, so it's important to do it right. And to do it right, you need an assistant. Your assistant sits in the driver's seat to work the peddle. You get underneath to work the bleeder screw. It doesn't mean to depress the peddle with a stick and leave it down while you open the bleeder screw. When you are ready, have your helper SLOWLY pump the peddle up and down about three strokes while the bleeder is CLOSED. Did I say SLOWLY? Do it fast and any air in the system gets frothy -- if that happens, you'll never get it out. SLOWLY up and down for three strokes. Them, with the peddle up, you open the bleeder and tell your helper to depress the peddle. He pushes it down, SLOWLY but firmly. When it bottoms out, he holds it DOWN and tells you "DOWN." You close the bleeder. Your helper then releases the peddle, and repeats the process of depressing the peddle SLOWLY for three strokes. At the end of the third, he lets the peddle up , tells you he's ready, and you open the bleeder. Once the bleeder is open, the helper again pushes the peddle down, slowly and firmly, until it bottoms out. Then he holds it down, tells you it's down, and you close the bleeder. You keep repeating this process until you get no air from the bleeder, and only clean fluid. One of you has to check the master cylinder after every cycle or every other cycle to make certain there's fluid in the reservoir. If you let it get pumped out, you'll let air in and then you have to start over.

The cat doesn't mate to the tailpipe, it goes into the muffler. Don't remember for certain, but I think the bolts I used are 5/16x1.5 or 5/16x2.

Looks like the '91 still uses the flange and gasket:

Does the '91 still have a flange at the front end of the catalytic converter, or is a male-female slip connection? If it's a flange, you'll need a new flange gasket, probably new bolts -- and I hope you ordered a direct-fit converter, not a universal fit.

Speaking from personal experience, you can do a LOT of mild -- and even moderate -- wheeling with no lift, and if most of your driving will be on pavement, the less lift the better. Especially with gas prices escalating daily. IMHO, 31s are too big to even consider under a 2.5L. The 2.5L is a good engine, but it's not a powerhouse, and 31-inch tires are really going to bog it down. You have a 5-speed? Forget about using 5th gear. Put 31s under your truck and you'll only be able to use 5th on the highway, downhill, with a tailwind.

Not sure, but I'd guess that if someone deleted their account, the photos are gone. Mine might be visible again -- I didn't delete my account. I haven't used it since their attempted blackmail, but I left it up because I wanted to be using up space on their server.

I suppose if the YJ valve doesn't work you could try an XJ valve, and then a ZJ valve. Where did you find the reduction rating for the YJ unit? Does that source also give the corresponding numbers for the XJ and ZJ units? My concern is that any reduction is ... a reduction. I think I've commented before that I have probably half a million miles under my tires in various XJs. I typically go through at least three sets of front pads for every set of rear shoes. That means under normal driving (which is what I mostly do these days), the rear brakes just aren't doing much work. On my '88 I had the hard line to the rear blow out, and I drove it for weeks like that. Other than the peddle being a bit lower, I didn't notice any difference in performance. It's difficult to lock up the rear brakes on an XJ -- on my '88, it's impossible, even on sand or gravel.

I saw this announced on another site. It referred me to the Photobucket web site. On that site I found nothing to indicate a $1.99/month plan. On one page they say a plan with third party hosting is $399.99/year. On another page they say it's #39.99/month -- which comes out to 479.88/year. I agree in the skepticism regarding "For a limited time only." Thanks, but no thanks.

Or an adjustable, and that brings us right back to the question of where to mount it.

What if (like the OP) you don't trust the factory valve or (like me) the factory valve exploded and is no longer functional?