Eagle

There was a factory tool for splitting the shifter handle. Several years ago I asked my dealership if I could borrow theirs for a day (the parts manager and shop foreman are friends). Shop foreman said they had tossed it years before, to make room in the tool crib for tools to work on the newer models. My guess is they never had any need for that tool.

Base model (SporTruck) were black. Higher trim levels were painted.

From your photo I can't see what gap you're referring to. That said, that's a photo from the inside. You don't try to seal leaks from the inside, because that can trap water between the glass and the body and promote rusting away of the window surround flange. You need to prevent water from entering, not trap it after entering. The Permatex stuff is applied from the outside, where it flows into the space between the gasket and the body to seal out water before it can enter. It definitely isn't "goop" -- it runs almost like water, so it gets applied from the top and then flows in and down to seal areas that you could never reach with the regular grades of silicone sealant.

Optical illusion. On the lifted truck, the fender and flare have been removed up to the top of the bumper. The yellow lines I added follow the line of the bottom of the rocker panels. Notice how at stock height the line cuts well into the wheels, about to the top of the center cap. On the lifted truck, the line just nicks the tops of the rims. I stand by my original estimate of a 3" to 4" lift.

WANT!!!!!!!!

Your truck: Stock height:

Height from the ground is useless. Tire size, tire make and model, and even tire pressure and wheel width affect that. The best measurement is by following the link that Minuit provided, above. Please do that, and post back with your results.

I haven't seen it recently, but I also haven't looked for it recently. 3-M or Permatex (don't recall which) used to offer a slow-cure, "flowing" grade of silicone sealant that was for the express purpose of fixing leaks like this. The idea was to close off the inside of the leak with masking tape, dribble some of the sealant into the gap from the outside, and allow it to make its way to where it needed to be before setting up. Looks like it's still available: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/ It's not available in small tubes like the automotive stuff, but some of the construction sealants companies have a flowable grade of urethane sealant that might work better with the OEM urethane adhesives used with automotive glass. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant-91065/202527281?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202523824-_-202527281-_-N A word to the wise: If you try the Permatex stuff, be sure to tape off the inside. I used it once to seal a leaking rear window on a car. It seemed to need a LOT of sealant to fill what should have been a small gap. When I opened the trunk, I had a pool of silicone on the trunk floor. That stuff really flows ...

I'd like to see it, but I don't have an Instagram account. If you run across it, maybe you could post the photo here for me and any other troglodytes among us.

I've always wanted to put a utility body on an MJ, like this: There used to be a couple of companies that made versions for the S-10 and Ranger, and I hoped that one or the other could be adapted to fit an MJ chassis.

Actually, I didn't find it -- they sent me an e-mail. I guess I must have searched for electrical doodads at some point. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KJNPHJ/ref=psdc_15733511_t3_B01KVZ2KEM Nice little relay center for those rewiring or doing custom upgrades like using relays to upgrade the headlight wiring.

Somebody mentioned Maaco. In 1999 my original '88 XJ was looking pretty scabby, because (like all Jeeps from that time period) the clearcoat was burned and flaking off. I had bought a new '99 Grand Cherokee and I wanted the XJ to look good, so I took it to Maaco for a repaint. The WJ lasted 10 months, and I still have the '88 XJ. That Maaco paint job looked pretty good ... for about a year. After about three years, it looked worse than it did before. I don't recommend Maaco. Even rattle cans will do a better job, and with a small compressor and a harbor Freight gun you can do it yourself and be well ahead of the game.

Those are 31s? DEFINITELY not stock height. Probably 3" to 4" lift.

The $200 kit also includes a supercalifragilisticexpialidicious coil -- which, unless the OP's OEM coil has failed, he doesn't need.

If the booster doesn't have vacuum, you get a high, hard peddle, not a low, soft peddle. The bypass bleed procedure has to drain the FRONT brake circuit to open the bypass. The front and rear chambers of the master cylinder aren't connected, so draining the reservoir for the front circuit doesn't affect the rear circuit. No.

Some of you already know that I lost my wife almost five years ago. Our only daughter (adopted) is studying (supposedly) several thousand miles away, so I'm alone at holiday time. This year, not one but two good friends invited me to join their families' Thanksgiving celebration. One is a couple I met through NAXJA almost twenty years ago, who now lives only three miles (or so) from me. The other is a more recent friend who lives across town and who is also (coincidentally) a Jeeper. Probably a coincidence, but all the people I consider to be good friends happen to have been met through Jeep-related activities. Have I ever mentioned that I don't believe in coincidence?

The coil may be worth $50 (or not) but, unless you need a coil, why replace the OEM high-energy coil with their high-energy coil? That's just a waste of money. Just buy a new cap, rotor, and a quality set of spark plug wires and call it good.

The rear height- (load-)sensing valve is not engaged or disengaged with 4WD. It is what the name implies -- it's a valve that opens and closes based on the height of the chassis relative to the rear axle. The valve is located on the frame above the left side of the rear differential. It is connected to the differential (or should be) by a vertical rod. When you put load in the bed, the bed settles, which pushes down on the rod. The rod can't move, so the lever arm on the valve is raised, allowing more brake pressure/flow to the rear brakes. It works exactly the same in 2WD and 4WD.

Incorrect. The bypass function is to allow full (unproportioned) brake pressure to the rear brake circuit if the front circuit fails. The purpose of opening a front bleeder is to simulate a loss of pressure in the front brake circuit. Obviously, to do that the front circuit has to spit out the fluid through that open bleeder. Seeing fluid come out the open bleeder in no way indicates that the bypass isn't working.

I don't know enough about how the clusters are laid out to know if you can swap the electronic speedometer into the older cluster. It might be possible. If not -- you might be able to buy a speedometer cable and convert the vehicle to the mechanical speedo. DISCLAIMER: I don't know if other functions of the ECU on the HO models rely on electronic signals from the speedometer drive.

Yes, that's why there's a special procedure to bleed the bypass. Also, if you're not the original owner, make certain that the calipers aren't on the wrong sides, which would put the bleeders on the bottom rather than the top.

Holy Ripoff, Batman! I just Googled it. $200 to $250 for a distributor cap, rotor, and wires? The OEM Jeep coil is already a high-output coil, so unless yours is bad there is no need or reason to replace it. Save your money.

Doesn't affect the brakes. If you're losing vacuum through the center disconnect fittings, you'll have a hard peddle (feels like no power brakes, because you'll have no power brakes). It won't cause a low peddle.

What year and engine is your MJ, and what is the firepower ignition kit?

Does it still have the rear height-sensing (load-sensing) proportioning valve intact? If so, did you follow the prescribed procedure for bleeding Comanche brakes? Hint: It's not the same as for the Cherokee, so I don't know what you learned from the Cherokee forum.