Eagle

Copyright law has changed since I last thought I knew a little about it. As an architect, it concerns me professionally. When I entered the profession years ago, to copyright our designs we had to put a copyright notice on the drawings we issued. As I understand it, that's no longer necessary. The copyright laws were revised in 1976. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copyright_law_of_the_United_States So your logo can be copyrighted (and, in fact, is copyrighted to you as long as you haven't transferred it or released it into the public domain). The copyright applies to the original and to "derivative works," which is anything that's an obvious rip-off with minor changes. I would suggest that you look into the process of registering your copyright. If the fee is an impediment -- let us know and I'm sure enough people will chip in a day's lunch money to cover it. I hate copyright thieves. This is why any time I post my information about the mixing and matching of front axles, hubs, aand brakes I mention specifically that I am not releasing it into the public domain or granting permission to copy it and spread it around. I can't actually prevent anyone from passing it along, but by my stating that I don't grant permission I have protected my intellectual property claim. You have done that by notifying this clown, but if you can find a snail mail address for him and serve him with a written notice by registered or certified mail, your protection will be greater.

Don't know in pounds, but I do know that two people can (fairly) easily pick up and carry a complete SWB bed, complete with tailgate and tailights.

This is a slightly newer version of the one I bought. I got it on sale about two years ago (I think), for right around $200. I very happily tossed the H-P DeskJet in the trash (and that's unlike me -- I still have some other printers around here that are 25 or more years old, and still functional). https://www.staples.com/Canon-Color-ImageCLASS-MF628CW-Laser-Printer-New/product_1807525 Watch Staples sales. What ink cartridges does your wife's printer use? If they're the same as what I think I still have around here, you're welcome to them.

She's using an ink jet printer? She's getting hosed. Ink jets are a rip-off. My late wife had an H-P multi-function DeskJet something-or-other. She didn't use it that much, yet it seemed like we were always buying ink cartridges (it took four). Not long after she died, it stopped printing ... again. I bought a new set of ink cartridges, installed them, and it still wouldn't print. It wanted new print heads. The print heads used to be part of the ink cartridges but, with the newer printers, the heads are separate. And they are EXPENSIVE. I went over to Staples on a sale and bought a Canon multi-function color laser machine. No separate print heads to wear out, no concerns about ink drying out, and the cost per page is about a quarter what the cost per page is with ink jet. But ... the laser won't do photo quality. If she needs photos, you're stuck with the ink jet. If it's routine business printing, my advice would be to toss the ink jet and buy a color laser printer.

You wrote to drill the hole in the flat side of the vents. The video says to drill it in the side toward the firewall. Which is better?

I keep looking at them and thinking "Ford Explorer." I know those wheels were OEM on something, but it wasn't a Jeep.

I've had the same one for more than 25 years. Still works. Don't remember the brand or where I bought it but, knowing me, it wasn't uber-expensive.

The factory slider was 3-piece -- two sides and one sliding panel. It was only a "semi" frame 00 metal along the top and bottom, exposed glass edges on the ends.

That's a base model truck, with some aftermarket parts (as previously noted). IMHO, it's definitely not a $9,000 truck. MAYBE $4,000, no more than that. If the seller seriously expects to get anywhere near nine grand, he's on crack.

Don't know. All the factory rear windows used a gasket. Yours must be aftermarket.

There was a factory tool for splitting the shifter handle. Several years ago I asked my dealership if I could borrow theirs for a day (the parts manager and shop foreman are friends). Shop foreman said they had tossed it years before, to make room in the tool crib for tools to work on the newer models. My guess is they never had any need for that tool.

Base model (SporTruck) were black. Higher trim levels were painted.

From your photo I can't see what gap you're referring to. That said, that's a photo from the inside. You don't try to seal leaks from the inside, because that can trap water between the glass and the body and promote rusting away of the window surround flange. You need to prevent water from entering, not trap it after entering. The Permatex stuff is applied from the outside, where it flows into the space between the gasket and the body to seal out water before it can enter. It definitely isn't "goop" -- it runs almost like water, so it gets applied from the top and then flows in and down to seal areas that you could never reach with the regular grades of silicone sealant.

Optical illusion. On the lifted truck, the fender and flare have been removed up to the top of the bumper. The yellow lines I added follow the line of the bottom of the rocker panels. Notice how at stock height the line cuts well into the wheels, about to the top of the center cap. On the lifted truck, the line just nicks the tops of the rims. I stand by my original estimate of a 3" to 4" lift.

WANT!!!!!!!!

Your truck: Stock height:

Height from the ground is useless. Tire size, tire make and model, and even tire pressure and wheel width affect that. The best measurement is by following the link that Minuit provided, above. Please do that, and post back with your results.

I haven't seen it recently, but I also haven't looked for it recently. 3-M or Permatex (don't recall which) used to offer a slow-cure, "flowing" grade of silicone sealant that was for the express purpose of fixing leaks like this. The idea was to close off the inside of the leak with masking tape, dribble some of the sealant into the gap from the outside, and allow it to make its way to where it needed to be before setting up. Looks like it's still available: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/ It's not available in small tubes like the automotive stuff, but some of the construction sealants companies have a flowable grade of urethane sealant that might work better with the OEM urethane adhesives used with automotive glass. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant-91065/202527281?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202523824-_-202527281-_-N A word to the wise: If you try the Permatex stuff, be sure to tape off the inside. I used it once to seal a leaking rear window on a car. It seemed to need a LOT of sealant to fill what should have been a small gap. When I opened the trunk, I had a pool of silicone on the trunk floor. That stuff really flows ...

I'd like to see it, but I don't have an Instagram account. If you run across it, maybe you could post the photo here for me and any other troglodytes among us.

I've always wanted to put a utility body on an MJ, like this: There used to be a couple of companies that made versions for the S-10 and Ranger, and I hoped that one or the other could be adapted to fit an MJ chassis.

Actually, I didn't find it -- they sent me an e-mail. I guess I must have searched for electrical doodads at some point. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KJNPHJ/ref=psdc_15733511_t3_B01KVZ2KEM Nice little relay center for those rewiring or doing custom upgrades like using relays to upgrade the headlight wiring.

Somebody mentioned Maaco. In 1999 my original '88 XJ was looking pretty scabby, because (like all Jeeps from that time period) the clearcoat was burned and flaking off. I had bought a new '99 Grand Cherokee and I wanted the XJ to look good, so I took it to Maaco for a repaint. The WJ lasted 10 months, and I still have the '88 XJ. That Maaco paint job looked pretty good ... for about a year. After about three years, it looked worse than it did before. I don't recommend Maaco. Even rattle cans will do a better job, and with a small compressor and a harbor Freight gun you can do it yourself and be well ahead of the game.

Those are 31s? DEFINITELY not stock height. Probably 3" to 4" lift.

The $200 kit also includes a supercalifragilisticexpialidicious coil -- which, unless the OP's OEM coil has failed, he doesn't need.

If the booster doesn't have vacuum, you get a high, hard peddle, not a low, soft peddle. The bypass bleed procedure has to drain the FRONT brake circuit to open the bypass. The front and rear chambers of the master cylinder aren't connected, so draining the reservoir for the front circuit doesn't affect the rear circuit. No.