87MJJeep

What was your 60' time? I'm guessing 2.2-2.3 as that 15.17 and 92.5 kinda jive well. It varies with the powerband of an engine, but I used to see 0.1s taken off the 60' equal 0.15s off the ET. That was with my torquey midrange engines (72 Grand Prix 400 and 88 Trans Am 350). My 01 Trans Am LS1 is closer to 0.1s off 60' equals 0.2s off ET. Don't recall 60' time, but my 04 Grand Cherokee 4.7HO ran a best of 15.0 or 15.1 at 90 or 91.

Thank you for the additional steering advice!

Thank you!

Gotcha. With my trackbar replaced and swaybar/link bushings replaced, the road manners are pretty nice. I probably am OK with the shocks I have. I'll keep gauging the ride feel though. The fronts are Rancho RS5000s, and the rears are Ranchos, but the # is not visible. Thank you for the thread link!

How necessary is that Dirty30 brace for a pavement prince?

I got the new track bar installed Saturday morning. Fortunately, the axle mount hole was perfect. I was torn between torque specs for that bolt. I saw 40 ft-lbs in many reference, but also 74 ft-lbs. I went with the higher spec. Then, I consistently saw 60 ft-lbs for the ball stud nut. The nut that came off was finger tight. Go figure, for a nut that should be at 60 ft-lbs. I also replaced the swaybar bushings and endlink bushings. Mercy, what a difference those new parts made.

Thank you for pointing me to that. I will look for that and study it asap. Wow. You're the Shock Man! Thank you for the detailed summary. That gives me a lot to chew on! (This is so refreshing vs. Facebook. I love forums! FB is for Liking, and Forums are for thinking and learning.)

Thank you for the advice. I hope the hole is OK and the body bracket end slop has been taking all the beating. I will see this weekend! I have wondered why it's like that. It dawned on me the trackbar on a Jeep is like a panhard bar on the rear axle of a lot of cars. I already have a MOOG trackbar on order. I'll stick to that style for now.

Thank you. I'll look for a ~$90 unit!

Thank you for the help. I just plan to use the MJ on the street. I even put "highway tread" tires on it last week. I like the stance as it sits now with the ~2" lift.

Thanks! Does the fact you run a YJ shock compensate for the 2" lift? Or is there another reason you chose one for a YJ?

Thank you for the advice, 75sv1. I will just use the MJ for on-road use, so I would prefer to avoid a lot of aftermarket stuff if possible. I will check on the metal steering box spacer and Delrin washer when I change out more parts.

I think I have a 2" lift from the prior owner (photos are in my other thread). My front tires appear to be aligned with the body fine, and the trackbar looks original. I assume with a lift as short as 2", an aftermarket trackbar is not needed to center the axle. Is that correct? So any OEM direct replacement trackbar is all I need? Thank you!

What I thought was a sloppy ride due to old and out of balance tires is really some suspension issues. With new tires, I have driven at interstate speeds for the first time in a while. It has some wandering going on and rough bumps cause some rattles. I had someone turn my steering wheel while I watched underneath, and the only play that seemed excessive is where the track bar mounts to the bracket on the frame and also the swaybar links. I have ordered new swaybar link bushings. I am curious is it feasible/safe to try to tighten the track bar at the bracket? My MJ "only" has 84K miles on it. Assuming I replace it, how difficult is it removing the other end that bolts to the axle housing? Does the little "tab" that sticks out the backside hold the nut in place? Are there any recommendations on what brand/type to replace the stock part with? The first hit I saw for "Cherokee Track Bar" was an adjustable "anti wobble" track bar, but it's for 4-6" lifts. (Supreme Suspensions https://supremesuspensions.com/products/1984-2001-jeep-cherokee-adjustable-track-bar-kit-2wd-4wd?variant=21398543302736 ) Thank you.

The previous owner lifted my MJ by about 2 inches I assume. Was this accomplished by taller coil springs in the front and the shackle(?) in the rear? Or would the leaf springs have been replaced? I am curious when the time comes, with this lift, how do I choose new shocks? The front shocks are some kind of Ranchos. Thank you!

Good question! I've seen photos of the girlfriend. Niiiiiice.

Yes, it's a sleeper! You remind of my coworker. He and his sons play with cars. One son though puts girls first. The cars-come-first son has more money in his wallet!

Sorry to not reply sooner. Does big brother just enjoy the '00 XJ as a daily driver, or does he have or desire other automotive toys like his little brother? Let's shoot for 7 nights a week on a creeper!

Glad the LSD works! My dealer had a Comanche as the parts truck for many years, too. It was a gray '88. I think the trans got rebuilt around 240K miles. They retired (scrapped?) it when the driver door hinges broke off the body. It was so cool seeing that Comanche in service for so many years. Why replace it with a new Ram if it still got the job done?

Thank you for taking the time to post about the fix for this. I drove mine tonight and I thought, "My headlight is burned out." Then got out and saw it was on, but immediately saw how it was aimed so low. Got on here, and there was the fix in your post. It was 9:45, and to my surprise my O'Reilly's large distribution store closes at 11pm. I had it fixed in no time. You must be very proud of your son. Cool kid with awesome taste! The J2000 is going to be awesome, too!

That's really cool! I always wanted an Eliminator, but when I found my SporTruck (Sept-2007), the mileage and condition overruled the desire for an Eliminator. It got repainted in 2020, and now has a set of Cherokee Sport 10-hole wheels. Close enough! But man, seeing a real Eliminator gets my blood pumping!

I put a new radiator in my 4.0L Comanche Easter weekend. I put in a 92 P/N radiator to switch to an open system. Based on comments in the reviews for the part, it is a Spectra-made radiator. It came with a male/male (?) fitting screwed into the top opening for the transmission cooling line. I just removed it and screwed the old line's fitting into the new radiator. The threads appear to be the same, but it didn't screw in very freely though it was not binding. I removed it once, and the threads looked OK. I have always read to not over-tighten these types of connections, so when I fired it up, I was way too conservative. It was dripping a few drops a second. I have gradually tightened it further in 3 stages. It now is just a weep. If I wrap a paper towel around the fitting, it catches what little is coming out. Do I need to keep tightening it bit by bit, or was I supposed to use the male/male fitting that came with the new radiator connecting the 87 line to the 92 radiator? It would have required a female/female adapter for the factory male fitting. Thanks for any advice. Meanwhile, I'll drive it with its "diaper" wrapped around the line. LOL

Gotcha. I have my original turbine wheels, and one of them is peeling off. I am definitely interested in a set so all 4 would match.

What diameter will these be? The 43ish mm that also fit the 10 hole wheels? Will JEEP be gold or silver? Thank you!

From my quick reading, the 1193 at NAPA and Autozone is Spectra. I didn't see a warranty listed at NAPA, so for the same price I got one from AZ with lifetime warranty. Will be a big relief to get it installed and switched to an open system and have the heater control valve removed.